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John Deere 219 engine: trouble starting after rebuild

pjflyer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
127
Location
Wolverine, MI
Hi all, I didn't know whether to post this here or under forestry. We have a JD 440a skidder with a 219 engine. We rebuilt the engine having the crank turned and getting a rebuild kit with a 20 over (if I remember correctly) for the crank grinding.

New pistons, rods, liners, and bearings. Everything went together except when we tried to match up the numbers on the main bearing caps to the block, they were binding. We found they only fit correctly flipped around (???), we could spin the crank by hand easily, torqued everything, timed everything including static timing of the IP. With everything hooked up it cranked pretty hard. We figured it's because of the new parts. We also hold in the clutch just to keep the transmission drag off the engine. Bled the injector lines at the injectors. When we tried starting it, it started but with a higher RPM than idle (maybe 1500). We shut it down within five seconds, and checked what was wrong. We thought the throttle linkage needed to be adjusted so we did it and tried again. Once again it started to run higher than idle again (1500), so within three seconds we shut it down. When we did, it stopped almost immediately, but no unusual noise, bang or thud. Upon investigation of the IP, there was an aluminum shim inside the IP shaft holding the metering valve mostly if not fully open. It was probably put in there to keep the weights from falling out, so we removed it. We missed that one putting it on. When we tried to start it all we got was white smoke. We tried adjusting the IP timing from one stop to the other (by turning the IP). The best spot seemed to be where the initial static timing line is, but it won't start.

Suspected the IP, rebuilt it, no change. Tried the rebuilt IP on another running 219 and the other machine ran fine, so we left that pump on the other machine and installed the known running IP on the rebuilt engine. Same thing. Tried new injectors, still white smoke. It smokes and almost starts but not quite. What combustion is going on helps it spin faster, as when you kill the IP it slows down quite a bit. It just doesn't seem to get over the threshold of actual running. We tried checking the compression, but we don't have a diesel compression checker. We tried to rig up an a/c pressure gauge, but found it hard to hold in as it's supposed to be 350, but it did register about 180.

We pulled the head and checked the valves which seemed to be fine. This head was not shopped as the condition of the valves and head seemed to be ok. We then took the gear cover off and rechecked the timing. Everything still lined up, cam, balancers, and IP gear. Later we tried another head that was previously on a running machine with no luck, setting the rocker arm gap at .014 intake and .018 exhaust as before. With the newly installed head we get black smoke now, but it still won't start.

We have checked the intake filter, no problems, tried it with the exhaust off, checked the fuel transfer pump - good fuel. The fuel that's in it is about 5 months old.

We have tried to hand crank the engine, but can't. Even when we took the head off, we couldn't spin it by hand from the front pulley bolt, but from the top, the pistons looked fine and seemed to move up and down as they should. We did bolt down the liners before we spun it without the head. We tried to pry it from the timing hole in the bell housing but still couldn't get it to move. The starter spins it fairly good, and when what little combustion we get happens, it helps it a bit more. We don't know if this is a big issue or what. We've rebuilt several 219 engines without having problems.

We are thinking about the cam, but it's hard to check the valve travel without being able to hand crank it. The starter whips it over too fast to get an accurate reading. That's the latest thing we thought of.

Simply; we've been chasing our tail for a week or so now trying to figure out what's the problem. We're also starting to wonder if anything happened when it first started at a higher RPM. Also if it being so tight is normal on a rebuild or not. The other engines we did, I don't remember hand cranking them after the rebuild, they just started and ran.

Any experience, suggestions, or opinions would help.
 

Tenwheeler

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
Messages
870
Location
Georgia
That sounds like a distorted block to me. Can be caused by running hot until it shuts down. Then after cooling down the crank and pistons are free again. Also caused by core shift. What would cause that except heat?
Won't start problem i have no answer for at this time.
 

pjflyer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
127
Location
Wolverine, MI
That could be. This block came from a machine we bought because it was a B model. The story was that some relative of his had this with a flex pipe muffler and it sat for a while. Water got in and the engine was seized up so he got it and tore the engine down to rebuild it. He never got around to rebuilding it, so put it up for sale and we bought it. We put the engine from our A into the B and have been using that on the job. Since the A is just for our use we finally have some time to put the engine together and put it in. We don't really know what the history or condition of the engine we're trying to rebuild.
 

Vetech63

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
6,440
Location
Oklahoma
Im not familiar with this engine at all.
Everything went together except when we tried to match up the numbers on the main bearing caps to the block, they were binding. We found they only fit correctly flipped around (???),
This isn't right at all.
We figured it's because of the new parts
NO
We have tried to hand crank the engine, but can't.
Not good.
Even when we took the head off, we couldn't spin it by hand from the front pulley bolt,
Not right at all.

You really need to start this rebuild over before something gets destroyed. It sounds like a hodge podge of different engine parts trying to get 1 good running engine. The first problem is the binding of the crankshaft in the engine block. With the right bearing clearance you should be able to turn the crankshaft by hand easily once the main caps are torqued. You have main caps that are not matching the line bore of the engine block and it is causing the bind. It may just be 1, but could be several. This binding could be 90% of the issues you are describing.
The best way to find this out is to place the crank in the block with the new bearings, put the caps on, but only seat them with light tapping, then just seat the main cap bolts. Torque 1 cap at a time, leaving the thrust cap for last...….check the crank movement after each cap...….you will find the problem child quickly.
 

pjflyer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
127
Location
Wolverine, MI
Part of our confusion is due to the engine was already tore down when we got it, so we had no reference to how it was before we got it. I wasn't clear about the main bearing end caps. They bound up when we matched the numbers as soon as we started threading the bolts in. We took a micrometer to the crank and bearings to make sure they were the same size, they were. After this we tried flipping the main caps around and they fit. We torqued them to spec (approx. 95 ft/lbs) and it spun easily by hand fine, fully torqued. They must have been put on wrong previously to fit so well. I don't remember at what point we stopped try spinning everything by hand though, so at some point it became hard.
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Kinda sounds like you may have rolled a liner o-ring when you installed liners?
Bob
 

pjflyer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
127
Location
Wolverine, MI
At this point I think anything is possible. It might be back to square one and tear it down and start again. We were just trying to eliminate anything it could be before starting over. It's a possibility that the block or something else is in worse shape than we were led to believe.

A big question we have is should we be able to roll it over by hand. I think we should be able to, but some others (not here on hef) have said that with new liners, rings, pistons, etc., that you wouldn't until it gets broken in.

Up here in the sticks it's not easy to find good answers. The one guy who knew about everything there was to know on these engines passed away last summer. Most shops around the area send everything out, and the ones that do it are slow and expensive.
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
If you mean roll over with a 1/2" ratchet yes you should be able to. When you install each piston turn the motor over 1 time and do the next ,if it becomes harder stop and check why.
Good luck
Bob
 

pjflyer

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Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
127
Location
Wolverine, MI
Thanks, I figured as much. We put a grade 8 bolt in the end of the crank and used a breaker bar. We didn't want to put too much torque on it as to snap the bolt, but I'm guessing around 200 lbs or so.

One thing we thought we might check is to pull off the idler gears and see exactly what is giving the resistance, being careful not to hit an open valve with a piston. We could get the crank where all pistons are in the mid position, rotate the cam feeling it's resistance, then take the head off and check the rest.

Next step would be to start over. In hindsight we could have had it torn down, rebuilt and back in by now. One of those things of... it might be this.... oh, it might be that.... then it might be that over there...... sheeeeesh!!

On top of this my cell phone has decided to go into a continuous reboot loop!!

I think that super wolf blood moon eclipse thing did a number on our stuff!!
 

Dave Neubert

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Jul 18, 2018
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1,660
Location
Monroe NC
When you put the crank in and torqued the mains it should spin freely with no drag sounds like mains are mis matched tear it down and have the block line bored
 

Junkyard

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Jun 5, 2016
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Location
Claremore, OK
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Field Mechanic
You mentioned pushing in the clutch.....which reminds me of a project I inherited many years ago. Motor was fresh but locked up solid. I pulled it and upon removing the flywheel I saw perfect indentions where the flywheel bolts were hitting the rear main seal. Not a little but a LOT. Maybe you have interference somewhere other than main bearings. Could have a rod end that’s egged. Lots of options :)

Maybe that story will spur a thought and you’ll find the culprit.
 

Wytruckwrench

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Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
270
Location
Wyoming
I keep thinking about this as I rebuild a few JD engines a year. I think I would turn it upside down and take all of the rods loose and start from there.
 

pjflyer

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Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
127
Location
Wolverine, MI
Thanks again. We have decided enough is enough and are in the process of pulling the motor to tear it down and find out what's what. On one hand I hope we find the issue, and the other I hope it isn't too serious. We're not sure if we'll get to it tomorrow, but probably by at least Saturday.
 

mg2361

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Jul 5, 2016
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Location
Pennsylvania
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Equipment Mechanic
The main caps should have an embossed arrow (or arrow shape) to them and the arrow points towards the camshaft. Also make sure the stamped word "front" on the rods is actually facing front. Definitely should be able to turn the crank by hand (no pistons) when the mains are torqued.
 

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thepumpguysc

Senior Member
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Mar 18, 2010
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7,542
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Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
You'll probably find the culprit on the 2 go-roud..
That said, What are u gonna do about the other/original inj. pump?
Can u post a pic. of the "shim" that you found in the pump.??
I'm always willing to help out a fellow member w/ inj. pump problems.
 

thepumpguysc

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Mar 18, 2010
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Speaking of Yummy..
The wife made me 2 Blueberry English muffins, slathered in Strawberry cream cheese w/ a piping hot cup of coffee.
Now THAT will make your tongue start slappin your gums.!!! I'm hooked.
 

pjflyer

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Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
127
Location
Wolverine, MI
Sounds good!!
As far as the crank went. There were no arrows stamped in them, just numbers just off center of the caps. When we started, we matched number to number and it bound the crank as soon as we started the bolt. After we miked the crank and new bearings we knew they were correct. We then put the caps on without the crank being in and there was an overhang lip where the cap came in contact with the block. We then flipped them and they lined up perfectly. We then put the crank and caps (flipped around) in and just started the bolts and it spun easily. We then started tightening the bolts checking the freedom of the crank every few turns. The crank spun easily by hand even when we had the cap bolts torqued to specs. I think the numbers got stamped on the wrong side as they don't even line up properly when matched. As we think back, we turned the crank with the pistons in it by hand to torque the rod cap bolts, beyond that were not sure if we spun it anymore or not. I think we set it at TDC and then installed the balancers, cam, and idler gears. We can't remember turning it by hand after that, but we will this time.

The rods were stamped with a front on them as well as the pistons. We installed them with the front side toward the front of the engine. We kept referencing the book and took our time at every step, that's what's confusing, but something went wrong somewhere.

The other injection pump is on the other machine running fine. I don't know if we'll swap them again or just leave them be. I'll try to find the shim and take a pic. It was a thin piece of aluminum rolled up to fit in the shaft hole.

I will take some pictures and post them once we get into it. I'll take some pics of the crank caps just so everyone can see. We're getting a bunch of snow and have a few other things to do, so it might be Friday afternoon or Saturday till we get to it.
 

DB2

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Jan 4, 2015
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1,007
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Winnipeg MB Canada
Not sure if they’re of the same design but I rebuilt a couple of 4276 Deere engines and as I recall they had balance shafts and required a special tool to make sure all the various gears were in time.
 
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