JD410B Leaking outriggers

[Local]

Aloha ,
I have a 410B with leaking out riggers ( STABILIZERS ) I got the nut off but cannot see the metal clip or ring . So I understand that you have to knock the threaded part into the cylinder to get to the ring , then remove the ring to get the gland etc out .
Well , I have not had any luck getting this part to push in . I am sure you guys have some experience in this . I need some guidance . I was going to remove the complete cylinder and take to a hydraulic shop but the top pin will not come out with heat , etc. so removing the complete cylinder is not an option unless I carbon arc (gouge ) it out .
I have repacked cylinders before and am familiar . So can you experienced guys give me any insight ?

 

[Diesel Dave]

Your gland is seized with rust in the cylinder barrel. You will have to drive the gland into the barrel using a large hammer and a block of wood to prevent damage to the gland. Drive the gland inwards approx 3/4 to 1.0 inch past flush until you see or feel a machined edge. This edge is what stops the snap ring and the gland from moving outwards.
Do you have the seal kits in hand ?
In the bore seal kit there is a split orange coloured ring that is used to temporarily fill in the machined edge and create a ramp that the hidden snap ring will climb allowing the gland and rod to be fully pulled out of the barrel.

 

[Delmer]

Wrap the cylinder rod in aluminum sheet metal so you don't ding the chrome. Have you removed the hoses so you can move the rod and push oil out? The snap ring is easy to remove, it will usually have raised an edge that will catch though, so sanding that edge down will make it easier to get the gland out. The orange ring will help get the o ring over the groove, but you're not reusing that o ring so hammering it out works fine too. The groove is tapered so the new o ring goes in easy enough. Bondo works nice to fill the groove too, then scrape it out.

 

[Local]

Your gland is seized with rust in the cylinder barrel. You will have to drive the gland into the barrel using a large hammer and a block of wood to prevent damage to the gland. Drive the gland inwards approx 3/4 to 1.0 inch past flush until you see or feel a machined edge. This edge is what stops the snap ring and the gland from moving outwards.
Do you have the seal kits in hand ?
In the bore seal kit there is a split orange coloured ring that is used to temporarily fill in the machined edge and create a ramp that the hidden snap ring will climb allowing the gland and rod to be fully pulled out of the barrel.

Okay , I will try again .... I do have the seal kit for it , This thing has me really frustrated , I hope I don't ruin the gland and threads . I made a piece for my heavy duty air hammer and it still didn't move . If I destroy this , do you guys have any idea where I can find ( Buy) another one . I also need a steering actuator , manual 4x4 . I ordered from Conn equip and got the wrong one two times . The part number is AT76043.

 

[Diesel Dave]

I know on some real SOB cylinder repairs our local hydraulic shop will cut the weld where the pin boss attaches to the end of the barrel tube ,remove the piston nut on the rod and pull the rod out to get it out of the way and then press the gland all the way through the barrel out the bottom then reweld the end back in place. You will sacrifice your seized top pin but by the sounds of how the job is progressing you will end up cutting the pin eventually anyway.

 

[Local]

I know on some real SOB cylinder repairs our local hydraulic shop will cut the weld where the pin boss attaches to the end of the barrel tube ,remove the piston nut on the rod and pull the rod out to get it out of the way and then press the gland all the way through the barrel out the bottom then reweld the end back in place. You will sacrifice your seized top pin but by the sounds of how the job is progressing you will end up cutting the pin eventually anyway.

I was wondering what other options were avaliable . This option would work for sure . I have welding equipment and have made gas tanks , fuel tanks etc . Great idea .... At least as a last result , this will work for sure .
Thank you so much .
I am Dale Dirt , I am not technically savey so not sure how I ended being called Local .

 

[Diesel Dave]

Bondo works nice to fill the groove too, then scrape it out.

Bondo is a great idea , Good one Delmer !!