steve foster
Member
How hard is the reverser to fix I have mine out on the bench . What do I need to look for Thanks
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JD 350C
- Thread starter steve foster
- Start date
mg2361
Senior Member
Welcome to HEF Steve
!
Do you have the tech manual TM1115? You will need it. They are not that hard to fix. Hopefully you can get parts for it.
Not to be a smart a**, everything. Obviously the oil pump, clutch plates and piston seals as well as the bearings. But the item to put extra attention on is the clutch manifold in the middle of the 2 clutch packs. They like to have grooves worn in them from the steal seal rings that ride inside them.
!Do you have the tech manual TM1115? You will need it. They are not that hard to fix. Hopefully you can get parts for it.
Not to be a smart a**, everything
. Obviously the oil pump, clutch plates and piston seals as well as the bearings. But the item to put extra attention on is the clutch manifold in the middle of the 2 clutch packs. They like to have grooves worn in them from the steal seal rings that ride inside them. 
Dave Neubert
Senior Member
You can't get a pump for it hope yours is good
steve foster
Member
Thanks for the info
steve foster
Member
When you work on it do you set on the bench or do you have a stand for it I was thinking about attaching it to a engine stand so I could work on it
mg2361
Senior Member
I never took the time to mount one in the engine stand, but that would be a good idea.
paul louscher
Member
Im having issues with my reverser also. I have mine on the ground with the motor attached for testing. It does not want to engage the clutches. I had the reverser apart and everything looks good inside. I have about 30psi at the lube test port but I can't get any pressure at the clutches. I don't know what im doing wrong. I don't have any pressure in the pedal either. I have a manual for it and Im guessing it is something to do with the clutch pressure regulating valve, the bypass valve, or the restricting orifice. In the book it says that the service replacement for the orifice has two holes. mine only has one hole but I figured that would just change the speed the accumulator fills. I don't know how to adjust the orifice either. It doesn't even feel like the accumulator or clutch valve has fluid in it. Im stumped and could use some help to figure this out.
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mg2361
Senior Member
Welcome to HEF Paul!
What does lube pressure do when you make a shift into Forward or Reverse? Stay at 30, drop then come back to 30 or drop and not recover? Do you have good system pressure? Have you checked the clutch pedal clutch valve (item #28)? Rotary valve (item #6) turning like it should?
!What does lube pressure do when you make a shift into Forward or Reverse? Stay at 30, drop then come back to 30 or drop and not recover? Do you have good system pressure? Have you checked the clutch pedal clutch valve (item #28)? Rotary valve (item #6) turning like it should?
paul louscher
Member
Thank you mg2361!
I dont know what the lube pressure does when I shift it. I will go to the shop and check that now.
How do I check system pressure?
I have taken the whole valve body apart and everything looks normal from what I can tell. The clutch pressure regulating valve had some dings on it so I filed down the high spots and hit it with scotch brite. It wasnt horrible, just a couple of burrs on it.
I disassembled the rotary valve and it all looks good. It seemed to me like someone was in it before because the detent ball and the bypass valve ball seemed to be switched. I dont know for sure but it seemed like the bigger ball fit better in the valve and the smaller ball fit perfect in the detent.
As for the clutch valve I did find a rather large groove. I am not sure if that is causing a bypass issue or not.
I dont know what the lube pressure does when I shift it. I will go to the shop and check that now.
How do I check system pressure?
I have taken the whole valve body apart and everything looks normal from what I can tell. The clutch pressure regulating valve had some dings on it so I filed down the high spots and hit it with scotch brite. It wasnt horrible, just a couple of burrs on it.
I disassembled the rotary valve and it all looks good. It seemed to me like someone was in it before because the detent ball and the bypass valve ball seemed to be switched. I dont know for sure but it seemed like the bigger ball fit better in the valve and the smaller ball fit perfect in the detent.
As for the clutch valve I did find a rather large groove. I am not sure if that is causing a bypass issue or not.
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paul louscher
Member
So the lube pressure doesn't do anything when shifted. It stays right at 28-30 psi.
mg2361
Senior Member
Why did you originally take the transmission apart for? Did it move at all prior to the repair?
Clutch pressure is zero or some low number?
Section 90, page 9025-20 and 21. Sorry, they just have a clutch pressure check, not a system pressure check. What is your cooler pressure when in neutral and what does it do when shifting into either forward or reverse?
Did you replace the gasket between the transmission control valve and the transmission? Internal porting in the control valve all clear? Maybe debris got into the port from cleaning gaskets and blocked something?
The scratch on the clutch valve does not concern me.
Clutch pressure is zero or some low number?
Section 90, page 9025-20 and 21. Sorry, they just have a clutch pressure check, not a system pressure check. What is your cooler pressure when in neutral and what does it do when shifting into either forward or reverse?
Did you replace the gasket between the transmission control valve and the transmission? Internal porting in the control valve all clear? Maybe debris got into the port from cleaning gaskets and blocked something?
The scratch on the clutch valve does not concern me.
paul louscher
Member
It did not move at all prior to removing the reverser.
No clutch pressure at all.
I have not checked cooler pressure. I have it looped right now and I need to make some sort of adapter to test it. I'll test it this afternoon.
I assume you mean reverser when you refer to transmission? I replaced all gaskets and orings. Cleaned all ports with air and solvents. The clutches move and operate with compressed air. The valve body looks good. The clutch fork had some minor wear on it so I welded it up with hard facing and repaired it. Everything looked okay other than some minor wear I already mentioned.
Those areas of the clutch valve looks good. It slides in the valve body nice and smooth. No dings or burrs on it and it seems to seat in the valve body good. All ports are cleaned and blown out. Even the tiny hole in the bypass valve. It seems as oil is not even making it to the clutch valve. If it is making it, I cant notice or feel it when I operate the shifter or the clutch. When I shoot air in the ports for forward and reverse I can hear the clutches move and engage. When I had the clutches out they looked good with plenty of life left. I did not check the clutch pack that is sealed. I didnt want to press bearings off because everything looked really good. Best i can tell its got to be bypassing or something because I dont get any fluid to the clutch test port. The port is not even wet when I take off the tester.
No clutch pressure at all.
I have not checked cooler pressure. I have it looped right now and I need to make some sort of adapter to test it. I'll test it this afternoon.
I assume you mean reverser when you refer to transmission? I replaced all gaskets and orings. Cleaned all ports with air and solvents. The clutches move and operate with compressed air. The valve body looks good. The clutch fork had some minor wear on it so I welded it up with hard facing and repaired it. Everything looked okay other than some minor wear I already mentioned.
Those areas of the clutch valve looks good. It slides in the valve body nice and smooth. No dings or burrs on it and it seems to seat in the valve body good. All ports are cleaned and blown out. Even the tiny hole in the bypass valve. It seems as oil is not even making it to the clutch valve. If it is making it, I cant notice or feel it when I operate the shifter or the clutch. When I shoot air in the ports for forward and reverse I can hear the clutches move and engage. When I had the clutches out they looked good with plenty of life left. I did not check the clutch pack that is sealed. I didnt want to press bearings off because everything looked really good. Best i can tell its got to be bypassing or something because I dont get any fluid to the clutch test port. The port is not even wet when I take off the tester.
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mg2361
Senior Member
Yep.
Well something is amiss. The path from the reverser's pump to the rotary valve is very short.
paul louscher
Member
What should I be looking for with the cooler pressure? I need to get an adapter to check pressure off this line. I dont have the manual in front of me. Do you know what pressure should be? The manual wont tell me what will happen when I shift back and forth. I assume it should drop a litte bit and then build back up correct?
paul louscher
Member
Okay so I made the adapter and took a pressure reading at the cooler. It was low. I should be getting 87-103 psi @1750 rpm and all it get is 50psi and 40psi at idle. It drops 1 psi when I shift back and forth.
I studied the diagram once again and I'm guessing that the clutch pressure regulating valve or the bypass valve has got to be doing something wrong. I was thinking I should add a shim to both those valves. What do you think?
I studied the diagram once again and I'm guessing that the clutch pressure regulating valve or the bypass valve has got to be doing something wrong. I was thinking I should add a shim to both those valves. What do you think?
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paul louscher
Member
Ive been racking my brain for a few hours about this. I was wondering if the clutch regulator valve is not seating all the way. It was a pain in the butt to get it out originally and the top part had a burr on it. When i install it now the spring is protruding slightly from the valve body. I have to push on the spring pretty hard with the plug to get the first thread started.
Maybe the burr on the top of the clutch pressure piston also caused a burr in its seated position in the valve body? Maybe that being held up is blocking the high pressure coming from the pump (see diagram)?
So I removed the clutch regulating valve completely. Thinking that should change pressures and I might get something at the rotary valve or at least the 87-103 at the cooler. I fired it up with the pressure gage at the rotary port and still zero. I turned it off and put the gage over on the cooler lines and the pressure had changed from 50psi to 10psi. I cant figure that one out. Ive been studying the diagram for hours and cant think of anything else other than the bypass malfunctioning.
There is a slight imperfection in the cup where the ball seats but it doesnt seem bad. I can put the ball in the cup and blow in the top and the ball holds pressure pretty well.
I need to figure this thing out and I dont know the test procedure to pinpoint the issue.
Maybe the burr on the top of the clutch pressure piston also caused a burr in its seated position in the valve body? Maybe that being held up is blocking the high pressure coming from the pump (see diagram)?
So I removed the clutch regulating valve completely. Thinking that should change pressures and I might get something at the rotary valve or at least the 87-103 at the cooler. I fired it up with the pressure gage at the rotary port and still zero. I turned it off and put the gage over on the cooler lines and the pressure had changed from 50psi to 10psi. I cant figure that one out. Ive been studying the diagram for hours and cant think of anything else other than the bypass malfunctioning.
There is a slight imperfection in the cup where the ball seats but it doesnt seem bad. I can put the ball in the cup and blow in the top and the ball holds pressure pretty well.
I need to figure this thing out and I dont know the test procedure to pinpoint the issue.
steve foster
Member
Ok guys need your help Where do you find parts for 350c I have my reverser on my engine stand tore it apart found it had been ran low on oil so low it ruin all the bearings the front roller bearing got hot it broke the main shaft tip where the bearing go's Thanks
mg2361
Senior Member
Is the path to the steering valves blocked off (#32 in the diagram)?
What I was looking for is if the cooler and lube pressures dropped to some number real low which would indicate leakage downstream of the cooler relief. Since it did not drop when shifting into Forward or Reverse that would indicate to me no downstream leakage. I suspect whether the transmission pump is pumping oil. Suction system good? Internal pump passages good? Pump?
paul louscher
Member
Yes the lines going to steering valves are capped. I was thinking about taking a pressure reading there. That should give me a pump pressure. I also had someone recommend a flow test.
Pump seemed good when I inspected it. I keep coming back to the thought of the clutch valve piston not seating all the way. I was going to use a micrometer and measure the depth of that valve cavity and reference it to the valve piston and try to determine if it is seating all the way. From my understanding if that valve is not up all the way it will cause pressure and flow issues.
Pump seemed good when I inspected it. I keep coming back to the thought of the clutch valve piston not seating all the way. I was going to use a micrometer and measure the depth of that valve cavity and reference it to the valve piston and try to determine if it is seating all the way. From my understanding if that valve is not up all the way it will cause pressure and flow issues.
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mg2361
Senior Member
Yes, use the steering line for a system pressure check. That line will be before the main relief valve. The problem with a flow test on that old donkey is there is no place to connect a flow meter that would isolate the pump from the rest of the circuit. If you have good pressure at the steering line then your oil is getting misdirected somewhere else.