JD 326D codes and service

[tackybrad]

Hi everyone, I've got a new to me JD 326D skid steer. Trying to resolve some codes on it and get the aux hydraulics working.

Serial#: 1T0326DACCG230530

Here are the codes, active and stored:

ECU 1569.31
EMU 523694.12
EMU 158.01
ECU 110.15
ECU 110.16
ECU 110.00

I know a couple of codes are for a VIN mismatch from where someone added on a new controller unit (sorry if I use incorrect terminology, learning). The long EMU code I know is from the aux hydraulics and I've been researching that one, which led me here. Here are some discussions on that:

JD 320D Skid - Aux Hydraulics not working

Hi Y'all, just got a plow delivered, plugged in Aux hydraulics but the right controller rocker switch appears to be doing nothing (no noise, no movement), so I can't turn plow from side to side. I've had the skid for a couple of years but never attached aux hydraulics before, so I don't know if...

www.heavyequipmentforums.com

2012 john deere 329d code

Hey guys i have a code coming up and im not sure where to start on it. It is 523694.12 — Aux Hyd Channel 2 Input Device Fault 343. Any help on what this means is great appreciated !

www.heavyequipmentforums.com

Deere 319D aux hydraulics not working

first time trying to use aux hydraulics on my 2013 Deere 319d they work for a few seconds on the slide on right joystick the one way, then they get cut off and throw code aux hydraulics extend output Out of Range Low. Dealer figured it’s joystick or spool. To replace joystick is $800 so don’t...

www.heavyequipmentforums.com

For that, I'm trying to figure out where to go/what to take apart to test those connections. Can someone point me to where that is or what housing I need to be getting under?

For the other codes, I'm not sure what to do. I've only researched the two I get than seem to be the mismatched controller, for which it seems having JD flash it is the best solution/only solution? Is there any way to it myself?

So, for now, the aux hydraulics don't work. The left manual control doesn't have a horn button on it, only a trigger that doesn't seem to actuate at all. The right side has the wheel which moves, but records no amperage on the monitor, and the right trigger does seem to press a button but nothing happens.

The engine derates and it seems like it's been 800 hours since the filters were changed. Unsure on that, someone wrote a 4 digit number (2497) and the date, march of 2023, on the filters, but the machine is at 3300 hours so hopefully it hasn't been that long since any filters were changed. Nonetheless I already have those and plan to it soon. The derate gets down to about 68%. The machine also stalls out and turns off if trying to do a zero-turn on dirt. Unsure if that's normal and just not a move you do, or if that's symptomatic of something else.

Thank you! I'd love any help or education. Just a homeowner trying to mess with my land, no prior SS experience.

 

[mg2361]

Welcome to HEF tackybrad!

-1569.31: engine is derated code (caused by the 110 codes)
-523694.12: Auxiliary Hyd Channel 2 Input Device Fault (most likely need the right joystick, roller is not replaceable by itself)
-158.01: System Voltage Data Below Normal (make sure your battery voltage is up and the system is charging properly)
-110.15: Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Slightly High
-110.16: Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Moderately High
-110.00: Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Extremely High

No VIN mismatch, unless you did not list all the codes.

Confirm the engine is overheating with an infrared temperature gun and compare to the temperaturere in the monitor.

The connector for the right lever (under the cab at the end of the steering lever tube), test (by backprobing carefully) for 5 volts at terminal 9 (white/orange wire), at terminal 10 (white/brown wire) voltage should be less than 0.100 volts. Varying voltages in opposite directions at terminals 11 and 12 (white/green, white/yellow). The last two voltages have to mirror each other in voltage change exactly, or the system will disable it and throw the code.

but records no amperage on the monitor

The amperage is an output reading from the monitor to the auxiliary solenoids. If there is no input from the roller switch, then there would be no output to the auxiliary solenoids.

Sounds like you need the operator's manual (found here) so you know what all the switches are supposed to be for.

for which it seems having JD flash it is the best solution/only solution?

Only the dealer can flash controllers.

 

[tackybrad]

Hi, thank you for your reply, I'll get on those as soon as the weather clears up.

Regarding the coolant temp, I'll certainly check with the thermometer, but that did come out of the stored codes. Is it possible it's a pretty old code from the previous owner? Or does it drop old codes after a period of time?

Would it be a good idea, now that I've written them down, to clear the codes and see what comes back up?
For the right lever connection, when you say under the cab that means I need to lift the cab, not remove a panel somewhere, correct?

Regarding the codes for the VIN mismatch, I'm nearly positive I pulled those codes previously, but they may only be in active and I think I pulled these out of stored, I'll double check that too.

Thank you so much for being willing to share!

 

[mg2361]

Unsure on that, someone wrote a 4 digit number (2497) and the date, march of 2023, on the filters, but the machine is at 3300 hours so hopefully it hasn't been that long since any filters were changed.

If the overheat codes are stored and not active, and the machine does not overheat, then your loss of power is most likely from those old filters.

Would it be a good idea, now that I've written them down, to clear the codes and see what comes back up?

Yep

For the right lever connection, when you say under the cab that means I need to lift the cab, not remove a panel somewhere, correct?

Yep, again

 

[tackybrad]

The connector for the right lever (under the cab at the end of the steering lever tube), test (by backprobing carefully) for 5 volts at terminal 9 (white/orange wire), at terminal 10 (white/brown wire) voltage should be less than 0.100 volts. Varying voltages in opposite directions at terminals 11 and 12 (white/green, white/yellow). The last two voltages have to mirror each other in voltage change exactly, or the system will disable it and throw the code.

Getting into it now, had to deal with an ungodly amount of dirt and debris (seems to have been run at a landfill or junkyard), I've taken 2 full 5 gallon buckets out and there's plenty more to go. Was as thick as 3-4 inches in places. Only gotten to about under the seat so far.

Anyway, there was one piece I neglected to mention, in case it gives any more context.

When I moved the roller doing as you suggested I got no amperage change as I said, but the first time I did it, it did very briefly flash to 0.13 amp and then I never got that to show back up again. Not sure if that's relevant.

One question, is there any benefit to unscrewing the joystick itself and checking anything there? Other than that, I'm going to proceed on the course you already gave me assuming there's no benefit there.

Thank you!

 

[mg2361]

it did very briefly flash to 0.13 amp

The controller probably started to engage the auxiliaries, saw there was a problem, then disabled it.

is there any benefit to unscrewing the joystick itself and checking anything there?

Since no parts are available for the roller switch, then no point in disassembling. Just be sitting down when you price a handle.

Just make sure of the voltages first. Hate to spend that money to find out it had no voltage supply, bad ground, or an open signal wire. I forgot to mention earlier, that not only do you check the voltages at the handle, and if the signal voltages are present, you have to make sure those signal voltages are making it back to the controller.

Check your messages.

 

[tackybrad]

Pardon the delay, but I finally got some good weather and time to go investigate. Here's what I found regarding the voltage on the rocker switch:

We got the 5v as prescribed on terminal 9
The reading on terminal 10 was under .1 (.03)
The voltage change when using the rocker switch was close, but not exact on 11 and 12
Terminal 11 was at .34 on the low and 2.48 on the high side
Terminal 12 was at 2.22 on the low and 4.24 on the high.

So terminal 11 had a change of 2.14 and 12 had 2.02. Is that enough variance to throw the code? Honestly the multimeter is a pretty cheap one and I'm not even sure how accurate it is.
You had mentioned following the voltages back to the controller. Is that the ECU square thing on the side wall?

What else should we be checking? I'll take a better look at the electrical diagram you sent over, but I suck at reading those, so I'm hoping the info I've given you helps isolate the issue throwing the code.

Thank you for your help!

 

[mg2361]

If that voltage signal is making it back to the controller, which I suspect it is, then you most likely need the lever assembly.

 

[tackybrad]

Thank you for all of your help. I did buy a new part and did figure out how to install it from some other threads you helped people in.

For anyone coming in the future, here is a good video showing how the connector works and how to pull the pins. Be sure to use some string or something to tie to the old wires when you pull them out so you can fish the new ones back through.

Thanks mg2361!

Now, any recommendations on finding used parts?