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JD 160DLC Cab smashed.

mark18mwm

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JD 160DLC Cab smashed.
Have any of you replaced the cab on a 160DLC? Today one of our trucks got ran off the road, the trailer went into a deep ditch and the hoe fell off (pulled the tie down rings right off the trailer)and rolled onto the cab side of the machine completely destroying the cab. We got it back on its feet and took a wrecker to pull the cab enough to get in and free the controls to get it running again and on the trailer. I guess my question is if any of you has put a new cab on? and can you get a complete cab with full interior and controls and if not how big of hassle is it tho move everything to a bare cab to complete it and put it on? The insurance company hasn't looked at it yet so we don't know what they will or will not pay for. We are just looking into what direction we might go when they might write a check, hopefully. We think nothing but the cab and rear door are the only damage but we still haven't given it a good look at yet. Luckily it was a soft muddy ditch and that cushioned it well so I don't think there was a big impact to harm anything mechanical. What can we expect to pay for a used cab? They look fairly easy to change but sometimes the easiest looking stuff turnout to be the hardest. If the insurance co treats us good we would take it John Deere for the repairs but if they get skimpy we have to be ready for other options like fixing it our self. Any experience or advise?
 

Cmark

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Insofar as my experience with Cat machines goes, if a cab only has structural damage it is usually much cheaper to buy a bare cab and swap over all the parts.

I've found that the only time it's worth looking at the price of a full cab is if the machine has either been on fire or underwater.
 

mark18mwm

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lantraxco, Thanks, I'll be contacting them. A take off off a dismantled machine would be ok, but I wouldn't think there would be much used for a 160 that was in decent shape.
 
Last edited:

mark18mwm

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Cmark, Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. We will look at all options, but glad you told me a new bare is the way to go in your opinion.
 

John C.

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What you are speaking of is a cab shell. I used to buy them as take offs from someone up in Canada. That have to have rear entry cabs so the original shells got pulled and sold as salvage for awhile.

It takes a little digging and pulling but the consoles and seat can stay on the cab floor. Wiring harnesses for the lights on the cab and a tight fit around the air conditioner and consoles is about the worst you have to deal with. You will need something that can lift pretty high to clear the seat and control handles. I almost forgot that there is some mess with the window wiper and washer.

Good Luck
 

Tones

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It would be a good time to look for a later model cab (ZX Hitachi) with ROPS built in. The mounting holes should be the same.:D
 

John C.

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I've never seen a ROPS on any excavator except some forestry cabs and some of the mini exs showing up in the last couple of years. They are not required in most of the United States for an excavator.
 

lantraxco

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I've never seen a ROPS on any excavator except some forestry cabs and some of the mini exs showing up in the last couple of years. They are not required in most of the United States for an excavator.

Most of the last several years production have ROPS cabs, CAT, Komatsu, Doosan, etc.... they didn't make much fanfare about it. Australia started it I think, and Europe, now the ROPS industry in the US has lobbied for ROPS on everything with hugely expensive destructive testing which can be done only by those ROPS companies that have built hugely expensive test cells they're looking to recover their investment from... everybody's damn crooked.
 

mark18mwm

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Thanks for the advise guys. At least now we can make a little better informed decision what we will do with it. The insurance adjuster came yesterday and said in his opinion it will be close to totaled. He said with a bare cab labor moving the stuff from one cab to another would be too high and the cost of a complete cab would be even higher. They are also concerned there might be more damage as they dig further into the machine. Personally I don't think there is but if they do total it it would work to our advantage as we were thinking about something else anyway.There is more sheet metal damage, rear door and the panels above it are junk also. So they will get back soon with their decision. The hard part is not having a hoe while we are already behind on work. I think if we can get by till winter with a rented machine we should take the check and fix it our self but he's not liking that idea, his money and machine, he can do as he wants. I told the boss to call a JD dealer and explain to them what is going on and see if they will give you a demonstrator, he don't think they will but I do so were going to have to call and find out. Thanks again for the , with you guys and a few other guys advise we might able to make the right decision now, all depends on the ins. now. I personaly thought full coverage on a hoe was a waste of money, I guess I look at that differently now.
 

Tones

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Most of the last several years production have ROPS cabs, CAT, Komatsu, Doosan, etc.... they didn't make much fanfare about it. Australia started it I think, and Europe, now the ROPS industry in the US has lobbied for ROPS on everything with hugely expensive destructive testing which can be done only by those ROPS companies that have built hugely expensive test cells they're looking to recover their investment from... everybody's damn crooked.
Hitachi and other manufactures have made intergrated ROPS cabs for a number of years now all to an ISO standard so the testing has been done. I priced a bear Hitachi cab a few years ago, $13000 AUD from RD Williams in Brisbane. With the exchange rate the way it is it could be good buying in the US.
 

John C.

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What I'm saying is you likely won't find any EROPS that will fit that machine. I know the EROPS cabs are being made for some markets. I'm just saying I haven't seen them yet. Last time I bought a new cab shell for a Hitachi was about twelve years ago and that ran $14,000 US.

I don't know the laws of Wisconsin but from my experience the adjuster is not supposed to determine the cost of the repairs and decide the machine is a total loss. Repair costs are to be estimated by an authorized dealer for the machine and then the insurance company can make you an offer of settlement. You can accept it or negotiate for more money. Get a hold of the Deere dealer and ask if they can work up a free estimate from what they see for damage.

Do you know what the replacement cost is for your machine. What kind of insurance policy do you have, market value policy or agreed value policy? Generally when the estimated cost of repair exceeds 65% or the market or agreed value of the machine they will declare it a total loss. You also should have first rights to buy back the salvage. Another issue to look into is if the adjuster works for the insurance company as an employee or is an independent adjuster paid on commission. I've had to deal with independents, who wouldn't know how to make the machine move, trying to low ball a claim and make shady deals with a salvage outfit for an easy fix and flip.
 

mark18mwm

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I guess I don't really know the laws and methods on insuring this stuff. The only reason I know a little bit about it is I'm a stock car racer, the adjuster just happens to be a guy I race with and we get along real well. I do know he put it up on a auction site for dealers to see what they will pay for it as salvage or repairable. I wouldn't know that but one guy called asking information about it. My understanding is the adjuster said if the value of the machine is $70,000, and repairs will be over $30,000 and they can get $30,000 as salvage it will be paid off at $70,000 minus deductible, and sold then the boss would get a $70,000 check. But, the numbers haven't come back yet as to what repairs and salvage price would be. Boss just hoping happens soon, it's a vary small company (3 guys) with 1 hoe, 1 dozer, 2 dump truck, and a grader and we need a hoe soon.
 

mark18mwm

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John C., any idea where you might have got those take offs? A name or even city would put me on the right trail to find out if they are still available and cost. Thank's
 

John C.

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It don't remember the company name but they were out of Burnaby, British Columbia Canada.

From the actions your are describing that have been done on the claim I would have to say that around here an adjuster would not be able to advertise a property in a damage claim for salvage until they actually owned it. I can only suggest that the insurance agent should get a call about how the account will be in danger unless some kind of settlement offer is made quickly. A legal beagle would be a very good idea at this point also.
 

mark18mwm

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Hi guys, looks like we came up with a plan. We went over the machine very closely and decided to repair it. The insurance company is totaling it out and we will get a $70,000 check from them and they will own it. When they had it on bids, the highest bid they got was $24,000. We have the first opportunity to buy it from the insurance company for that $24,000, matches to the highest bid they received. The insurance company had estimates for repair at about $42,000 that is why they totaled it. That leaves us with $46,000 to work with for repairs. We think we can fix it our self at about $25,000 to $30,000. Thanks to you guys we found a few places for cabs, I think we will get one from Brikers up in Canada, a couple of you recommended them and they seem to be the best to go with, good guys to work with. We will just get a shell with all doors and windows and set it on our floor, we looked hard at doing that and got a few tips from the guys at Brikers and we think that is the best way to go, time will tell. I appreciate all the advise from you guys and might come back screaming and begging for advise again soon, haha. Thanks guys!
 

mark18mwm

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Thank's for the advise everyone. cab is now changed and machine running. we ordered a cab shell from a outfit in Ohio that was $1,000 cheaper then Birkers. Ordered it on a Monday morning and told it would be here by the end of the week, they just never said which week. We didn't get it until it until the Monday a week after we were supposed to have it. Two full weeks when it was supposed to be 5 days. The first call I made was to Birkers in B.C., they guaranteed 4 day delivery but it was $1000 more then the Ohio cab. If we knew how long the "cheaper" cab was we have surely got it from Birkers, who, by the way is where the company in Ohio got it from. I was surprised how easy it was to change, the only hard part was bending back the councils and seat mount that were bent, cab itself was a piece of cake. thank's guys, I appreciate the advise.
 

Tones

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Good to know you're up and running, also a huge thanks for posting the final outcome, many here never seem to bother doing that.
 
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