I'm going to sit down & have a good cry.

[Willie B]

Looks to me, like the hoses have a twist in them. or they are backwards to each other's natural lay. In other words, with one end free, they should lay together, and bend together. Then connect the second end without twisting the hoses. Kinda like coiling electrical cords. Fight the natural lay and get tangles for your troubles.

Yeah, I tried loosening the fittings & rotating the hose. It didn't help.

 

[aighead]

I didn't realize how much hose and fitting angles made a difference until my latest hose replacement. I don't know if the guys that make the hoses aim for the same angles or not?

@Willie B I feel for you! My extendahoe is hard plumbed near the top of the joint, where the hard line kind of guides the soft lines to run in a channel on my NH. I didn't realize the importance of both that hardline and a couple two inch wide tabs that funnels the soft lines into that channel until I was clearing brush at my buddy's and saw that I'd completely yanked those lines out of their natural spot and bent the hard line up pretty good. My issue turned out to be the hardline was held in place my a worm-drive hose clamp that had slid down so it wasn't holding the line tight to the stick arm. Once I got that figured out it was good to go, but it reminds me that I should probably check on it again. The design of yours looks completely different than mine though, so, ya know, this anecdote is useless...

 

[Willie B]

I didn't realize how much hose and fitting angles made a difference until my latest hose replacement. I don't know if the guys that make the hoses aim for the same angles or not?

@Willie B I feel for you! My extendahoe is hard plumbed near the top of the joint, where the hard line kind of guides the soft lines to run in a channel on my NH. I didn't realize the importance of both that hardline and a couple two inch wide tabs that funnels the soft lines into that channel until I was clearing brush at my buddy's and saw that I'd completely yanked those lines out of their natural spot and bent the hard line up pretty good. My issue turned out to be the hardline was held in place my a worm-drive hose clamp that had slid down so it wasn't holding the line tight to the stick arm. Once I got that figured out it was good to go, but it reminds me that I should probably check on it again. The design of yours looks completely different than mine though, so, ya know, this anecdote is useless...

I am the unhappy owner of two extend a hoe backhoes. I do not need two, don't want two. The John Deere was intended to be a fixer upper, but it is a better machine in some ways. This is one of those ways. This JD has an internal extension. It doesn't need much to organize hoses at the top of boom. This, the hoses come out sideways, have a hard 90 degree fitting & at least one welded loop to contain the hoses.

Case has external extension. Solves the problem of how to build a thumb, but forces me to manage extreme variation with hoses up there.

It isn't helping that hoses have to cross up there. I've considered switching left to right inside the boom, but there is NO room there! At the control valve is best place to switch, I'm terrified to ponder that job!

Having four hoses, I already know the thumb hoses are too long further complicates my problem.

Those I've seen that appear functional have two hoses. Magically those hoses flex evenly throughout their length. Mine flop, tangle & kink!

 

[Willie B]

Paging Mr. @thepumpguysc , they're asking for you

Ultimately, the John Deere did fail again. Removed sludge from the check ball again, it runs now.
Local pavement plant owner gave me a name of a guy who rebuilds injector pumps. He seems confident he can fix it no big deal. Says it is a "collector ring" breaking down. He has ordered new parts, will call when they arrive.

 

[DMiller]

There is a 'Flex Ring' internally that on earlier productions was composite fibrous material and disintegrated over time with flexing, heat and fuel bath.

 

[Willie B]

There is a 'Flex Ring' internally that on earlier productions was composite fibrous material and disintegrated over time with flexing, heat and fuel bath.

Might have been flex ring. I've never seen the innards of one of these pumps. I'm sort of reluctant to dismantle, then have no source for parts.

 

[Vetech63]

Might have been flex ring. I've never seen the innards of one of these pumps. I'm sort of reluctant to dismantle, then have no source for parts.

Send it to Eric..... he ain’t afraid of them even though he should be
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/68-580-ck-injection-pump-question.85768/

 

[Willie B]

Send it to Eric..... he ain’t afraid of them even though he should be
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/68-580-ck-injection-pump-question.85768/

I've been avoiding these things longer than you. I'm holding out for the local guy I only know he has satisfied customers.

 

[mitch504]

If you don't get him. I can vouch for thepumpguysc

 

[Willie B]

If you don't get him. I can vouch for thepumpguysc

Actually, I've spoken to The Pump Guy SC.
I may PM him. I have every confidence in him. I've been hoping he would see this thread & comment.

 

[mitch504]

If you don't get him, PM me and I'll give you his phone numbers

 

[Willie B]

If you don't get him, PM me and I'll give you his phone numbers

Thank you.

 

[stinky64]

Eric has no reason to fear the pump,just nuts and bolts man...I rebuilt the pump on my 580c ,but not before I read every available post on this forum, acquired an old roosa master rebuild manual and watched a 7 part youtube series on a guy rebuilding an old Oliver roosa pump...this guy had a claw hammer,an old wooden handled screw driver, and a crowbar on his bench..I figured if that cat could do it I could do it...just need a little mechanical aptitude and enough faith in your skills,and I have an awesome set of tools...btw I also rebuilt my shuttle and backhoe control valve,there's 200 bucks worth of o-rings in that thing and amazingly they still work too.. gotta have the manuals, they're priceless with any machine, and like Eric said "another feller put it together the first time, so can I... as far as sourcing parts..all that info was right here on this forum....do the research....then rip that crap apart man..

 

[Willie B]

I let this thread die, don't know why.
I built a long extension to support the hoses at the top of the boom & dipper. It worked well.
I sold the Case 580K to an owner nearby. A year later I got a call "Something is wrong!" A snap ring had come loose one end of the pin securing upper end of the extend a hoe hydraulic cylinder. Would have been a simple fix, but the pin had come all the way out & the bottom half of the dipper was hanging by hoses. It had ripped hoses loose from the ties at top of dipper. I resolved that, back to work!

The John Deere proved to be the flex ring in the Stanadyne Pump as several of you diagnosed. It blocked a check valve in the return line.

I also sold the John Deere.

Now have a Case 580 Super N. Nice tractor with all the bells & whistles. It has a hammer circuit on the dipper, but otherwise no auxiliary hydraulics. I still don't have a thumb. All strategies to add thumb hydraulics are challenging.