IH 175C Master Link

[John C.]

After reading Tones' remark I figured I had better go back and look at the photo a little more carefully.

After reviewing the photo I'd pretty much bet that a link has already been removed from that track. The sprockets are more that 100% worn. That tells me that the track bushings are cracking up or probably already worn through. The bottom roller flanges are riding on the track pin bosses which means the roller and track combination wear is over 100%. I think I see a leaking roller in the middle of the right side track frame. Really you are on borrowed time and the alarm is just about to start ringing. Count how many links are in each track and maybe someone on here can tell you if a link is already gone.

 

[DMiller]

Two specs on 175C, first one is a gimme not gonna find anything 7.0 pitch, 39L, Second was more common 7.5p and likely not going to find pieces, 37L except maybe someone down unda still has access. My Allis uses the same rails in 7.0, been obsolete non existent for two decades at least. Many with 7.0 are swapping to Cat 6.91 and dealing with shot segments. Takes some amount of Imagineering to fit them.

 

[DMiller]

BTW, counted 36 pins on the photo, I believe this one is done.

 

[CFrank90]

Well that’s not what I wanted to hear fellas. We got a pretty good deal on the machine and it has worked well so far. Hopefully even though they are well worn, we can get it tightened up and last a while. It won’t get to many hours on it but maybe I should keep my eyes out for a junk machine with a better undercarriage. I don’t really want to spend $10k on new rails and sprockets.

 

[DMiller]

No longer available at any price is the problem

 

[Mike Legg]

On the 175C, we received an undercarriage quote a couple of years ago from a company called "AMS". See attached quote......

 

[CFrank90]

Two specs on 175C, first one is a gimme not gonna find anything 7.0 pitch, 39L, Second was more common 7.5p and likely not going to find pieces, 37L except maybe someone down unda still has access. My Allis uses the same rails in 7.0, been obsolete non existent for two decades at least. Many with 7.0 are swapping to Cat 6.91 and dealing with shot segments. Takes some amount of Imagineering to fit them.

What do you mean by 7.0 or 7.5 pitch? Is one link 7 or 7.5” pin to pin

In the parts book it lists the severe suspension undercarriage as the 37 link unit so I guess that’s what I have just so I know.

I did some googling and 37 link rails seem to be available but your saying it’s a different pitch?

 

[John C.]

Pitch is the distance between pin center to pin center. There might be 37 links but the distance between pin centers may be different plus you have to worry about the pattern for the bolt holes on the pads being the same if you don't want to have to buy all new pads as well.

 

[DMiller]

Need to measure yours, with the rails snugged up, pick Any pin, pick an edge front or rear as the track lays, measure from there to the Fifth pin away in either direction, but at same location of the measure point first pin where will be close to 28 or 30", divide that number by four. Tells you if have 7.0 or 7.5. Will need segments for that same arrangement and may as well inspect all the rollers, Upper and lower to your service manual. 7.5 pitch max dimension for 100% worn is around 7.620, for 7 pitch 7.120. What was handy of the IHC/Dresser units was could update from 7 pitch to 7.5 with change of segments.

 

[Tones]

There maybe another option to replacing the chains. Just replace the pins and bushes. Back in the day those rails would be rebuilt so it can be done. It was a good place for a newbie to learn to weld.

 

[DMiller]

Have been a few from the Land Down Under spoke of submerged arc weld repaired links, was always cheaper to Buy rails here!!

 

[Tones]

Have been a few from the Land Down Under spoke of submerged arc weld repaired links, was always cheaper to Buy rails here!!

And now it's Back to the Future. In '67 I worked for a farmer who rebuilt all the undercarriage of his TD6 using a PTO driven Lincoln arc welder. By all I mean idlers, top and bottom rollers, sprockets and rails. Part of the tool box equipment that was supplied with the tractor was a template of all the undercarriage components.
I don't know if it was cheaper or not to buy new chains but the lead time to get them was counted in Months

 

[DMiller]

Seen it happen but there is limitations, can build up running surfaces, can build up rollers and idlers, can even weld in repair inserts or refill worn sprockets. HOWEVER, if Pins and Bushing are shot while NLA then you have nothing. Also need a Track pin press to separate ALL the links to roll pins and bushings if anything remaining, that is almost as labor costly as replacement rails now.

 

[Tones]

Seen it happen but there is limitations, can build up running surfaces, can build up rollers and idlers, can even weld in repair inserts or refill worn sprockets. HOWEVER, if Pins and Bushing are shot while NLA then you have nothing. Also need a Track pin press to separate ALL the links to roll pins and bushings if anything remaining, that is almost as labor costly as replacement rails now.

But the thing is, if parts are no longer available then rebuilding is the only option and to my mind it's a dam shame to destroy what may be a good machine because some new parts aren't around

 

[CFrank90]

I thought I had seen this on the antique caterpillar forum. I’ve also got a Cat D79G so I’ve spent some time looking around over there.

 

[Tones]

Step 2a and b looks like a good idea and much faster than welding. I have seen outfits weld a rolled band onto rollers and idlers with good success

 

[John C.]

That stuff was all marginal at best when labor was cheap and machines could be down for months. If the bushings are worn through they will bust up just pushing the pins out. In order to press the steel in between the sprocket teeth it has to be soft which might last a few hundred hours at best if it doesn't snap off when crushed in a hard reverse pull. Even now welding rollers is a thing of the past but you can get the front idlers redone. Last time I had anything to do with that, it only worked on D9 and larger tractors.
The best option I can see for the tractor used pieces or find another brand of components close and know that it won't be optimum but you will be able to use the machine. Keep in mind undercarriage is only one possible issue. The condition of the engine, transmission and drive train could also make the machine useless the day after you spend a bunch of money on undercarriage. Better to run it as long as you can and spend as little as possible till someone else comes along with a need and little money that might try to steal a few more hours of operation.

 

[Welder Dave]

You can buy weld on sprocket rims that weren't available in the past. If you can find a decent used more popular undercarriage that is close but has a different pitch, the sprocket rims may be available and could be welded to the existing sprocket hubs. It's a lot of work but pads could be re-drilled to fit other rails. A mag drill with an annular cutter would be the best option for drilling the pads. Would have to look at an undercarriage application book to see if there is something close that is more common.

 

[Tones]

That stuff was all marginal at best when labor was cheap and machines could be down for months. If the bushings are worn through they will bust up just pushing the pins out. In order to press the steel in between the sprocket teeth it has to be soft which might last a few hundred hours at best if it doesn't snap off when crushed in a hard reverse pull. Even now welding rollers is a thing of the past but you can get the front idlers redone. Last time I had anything to do with that, it only worked on D9 and larger tractors.
The best option I can see for the tractor used pieces or find another brand of components close and know that it won't be optimum but you will be able to use the machine. Keep in mind undercarriage is only one possible issue. The condition of the engine, transmission and drive train could also make the machine useless the day after you spend a bunch of money on undercarriage. Better to run it as long as you can and spend as little as possible till someone else comes along with a need and little money that might try to steal a few more hours of operation.

One other thing that should be considered is whether the machine is the main money earner or a part timer ( hobby) A main earner then ditching it would be the order of the day.

 

[Bls repair]

Don’t know if this helps