So I couldnt get the blade to move and when i checked the hydraulic tank it was low so i added hydraulic to it and tried again. the blade still wouldnt move. i shut down the dozer and checked the hydraulic again and it was low. i looked everywhere and found a massive leak directly under the dozer. i know its a hydraulic line but my question is if needed how do i raise the cab so i can get to the rest of the hydraulic lines.... any information will help. thanks in advance.
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How to raise cab on a d6n xl dozer
- Thread starter Anthony93
- Start date
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,187
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Have you check to see if there is an operators manual in the machine? Often they are located in a pouch on the back of the seat.
Mobiltech
Senior Member
You don’t raise the cab on a d6n. You can pull the floor plates and covers inside the cab as needed or pull a stump pan. Cab is one unit and is usually left on for leak repairs.
Sounds like you may have a main pump line leak so probably start by removing the floor mat and taking the plate off under your feet.
Sounds like you may have a main pump line leak so probably start by removing the floor mat and taking the plate off under your feet.
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,187
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Well I just spent a good amount of time looking on SIS at the operator/maintenance manual and could not see anything about raising or tilting the cab! Could it be there are floor panels under floormat that you can remove for access?
Guess taking time out to accompany wife to doctor let Mobiltec come up with the answer, should have checked before writing my reply!
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kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,187
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Not sure if the company would be interested but here is what can be had for a S/N prefix of NJN which I think might be your machine, note the bottom info about being able to download the files in place of waiting for the CD's:
$49.00 for operators manual would be a bargain in my mind, parts manual for $109 also a good deal if you are going to be keeping the machine for any length of time! Heck $638 for the Service manual would probably pay for itself in one or two service calls from the dealer. And NO! I don't get a kick-back from Cat for promoting these manuals I just know how handy they are for any machine be it a D6N or a washing machine!
$49.00 for operators manual would be a bargain in my mind, parts manual for $109 also a good deal if you are going to be keeping the machine for any length of time! Heck $638 for the Service manual would probably pay for itself in one or two service calls from the dealer. And NO! I don't get a kick-back from Cat for promoting these manuals I just know how handy they are for any machine be it a D6N or a washing machine!
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Unfortunately I found the problem and yes it’s the main hydraulic hose that’s leaking. I have to go underneath to get it. Is there an easy way of doing that because that pan looks heavy. It’s got 6 1 3/16th bolts on both sides to remove. Thank you everyone for your replies!
Nige
Senior Member
No easy way and be careful, that guard will be much heavier than you think because it will be packed full of oil-soaked dirt.
It would help if the tractor was on a concrete surface or at least some sort of hard floor, and you'll need a hydraulic jack as well. See attachment.
Super S
Active Member
I have used a piece of 3/4 plywood with a floor jack to support the pan. Or in a real bad spot a few heavy duty ratchet straps will hold it up until you get all bolts out.
Nige
Senior Member
The ratchet strap idea works really well on convex belly guards, but the one on the OP's machine is flat and is recessed up above the frame. It may require a bit of ingenuity to get the ratchet straps to hold the weight.
Nige
Senior Member
The belly guards weigh between 100-150 pounds each, depending on which one you remove. Budget for double that with the dirt, etc........
John C.
Senior Member
I've always used a 3/4 or 1 ton come along with the ratchet hook on one track that the hook on the other. I'll pull everything up tight and loosen the bolts to start with. Once loose I can reach them from under the tracks and take them out. The I lower the pan. Sometimes I would pull the pan out of the way, in swampy ground, I would just leave it there and work from on top of it. When the machine is running I would move it off and clean out the pans for going back up.
Plywood will have to be pretty thick to hold up the weight on one of those pans with a floor jack.
Plywood will have to be pretty thick to hold up the weight on one of those pans with a floor jack.
Nige
Senior Member
When you get the old hose off take a look for an aluminium tag right next to one of the end fittings (if it’s still there). That tag will have the hose Part Number stamped on it.
92U 3406
Senior Member
Those stump pans are widowmakers. Do not underestimate them and stay as clear of them as you can when taking the bolts out even if you think they are securely supported.
Nige
Senior Member
I must admit I was also sweating a bit until you reported that you successfully managed to remove it. Be just as careful putting it back, even though it will weigh less.