Happy New 955L Owner With Questions

[DMiller]

Would not remove the outer cover, unless you really want to wrestle with the converter.

 

[kshansen]

Loctite has a few shaft repair compounds that will work with a Speedi-sleeve. It depends on how big the gap you have to fill is.

http://www.useloctite.com/downloads/187533_loctite_guide_book_updated.pdf

That groove does not look too bad I'm thinking a Speedi-sleeve will work good on it, a little Loctite might now hurt either.

The ones I was describing using the epoxy on looked like someone had hit the sealing area with a 4 inch grinder then let it rust a bit for good measure!

 

[AllDodge]

I'm thinking speedy sleeve as well

 

[leadfarmer]

Would not remove the outer cover, unless you really want to wrestle with the converter.

That's what I was afraid of. Guess I will keep working on digging out that old seal. The torque converter shaft is pretty short so I was thinking about rigging up a 3 jaw puller.

Luckily for me, I am a project manager at an industrial rotating equipment repair shop. We repair all sizes of steam turbines, centrifugal compressors, gearboxes, and turbo blowers.

I have a guy prepping that gouged area for flame spraying using metallizing wire, a repair we commonly use on seal areas on rotating shafts. Then it will be machined back to size, and better than new.

 

[Nige]

I have a guy prepping that gouged area for flame spraying using metallizing wire, a repair we commonly use on seal areas on rotating shafts. Then it will be machined back to size, and better than new.

That'll work...........

Regarding getting the old seal out, it may have been installed using Loctite so you could try cutting it with a small sharp chisel or even giving it a bit of heat with a blowlamp (provided that area of the machine is clean enough that there is no risk of it catching fire) to destroy the Loctite bond.

 

[kshansen]

I have a guy prepping that gouged area for flame spraying using metallizing wire, a repair we commonly use on seal areas on rotating shafts. Then it will be machined back to size, and better than new.

Well if that's what you have at your disposal for repairs then my suggestions would amount to "Carrying coals to Newcastle", right Nige?

 

[leadfarmer]

You're still putting good information out there! I wasn't aware of those speedy sleeves and have added them to my mental tool box. I could see myself using them at home or at work in a situation where the shaft can't be removed or the shaft material doesn't allow the repair I'm using currently.

 

[Cat977]

I repaired some steam turbine and and various other shafts back in the day. I would undercut till the shaft to about .060 undersize. Then use a pointed tool and a very high rate of feed to give a good surface for the flame and powder metal spray to stick to. And like yours it was much better than new. Some shafts were sent out to be chromed and ground back to size.

 

[leadfarmer]

Done! Here’s a photo of the prep for spray.

I’m still fighting to get the old seal out. About to take the torch to it.

 

[Cat977]

That Shaft prep looks good. Yea do it like yours. A rounded point tool so you don't put stress risers into the shaft.
Do you have a picture of the seal. I was thinking about my old slide hammer setup. Made a hook out of tool steel then flame harden just the face of the hook. Threaded it onto the slide ( 1/2-13 threads on that slide). Grab onto the seals metal casing (cut the rubber to get at it) and bang your way out. I've enjoyed the use of that tool may times.

 

[leadfarmer]

Finally got the old lip seal out last weekend and installed the new one. The torque converter drive flange sure has some slop on the input shaft. It wobbles around more than I like until the rubber biscuits are installed. Not much can be done about that.

I replaced the flexible hoses on the transmission fluid cooler lines. I also replaced most o-rings and gaskets for piping and plugs on the outside of the transmission to try to eliminate leaks.

Last week I went to look at a very nice 955L bucket for sale locally. Although we couldn’t agree on a price (he was firm at $1500) we did shoot the breeze awhile. He is at the age of retiring from dirt moving and had a long career of owning and maintaining 955s.

He told me he had the same issue on one machine that I am having, where trans fluid is pretty quickly moving from the trans to bevel gear case. He said the trans pump and steer pump needed a rebuild. That solved the problem for him. So I guess I’m going to pull the pumps and look at them. He said don’t take them to the local cat dealer, they screwed up both pumps on their first attempt.

 

[Cat977]

I have used round tool steel to make a chisel to remove a lip seal like that. Grind a 45 degree angle on the end. Lay the round end on the case and pound on the side of the seal to collapse it in on itself. One place only is the best, but with that splined shaft in the way you might have to use two.

 

[Nige]

Finally got the old lip seal out last weekend and installed the new one. The torque converter drive flange sure has some slop on the input shaft. It wobbles around more than I like until the rubber biscuits are installed. Not much can be done about that.

Did you perchance check the alignment of the engine side drive flange vs the converter input flange beofree installing the pucks..? Nothing's going to take pucks out faster than misalignment.

 

[leadfarmer]

Did you perchance check the alignment of the engine side drive flange vs the converter input flange beofree installing the pucks..? Nothing's going to take pucks out faster than misalignment.

I didn’t since I had no alignment issues prior to doing the seal work.

I pulled out the steering pump and trans pump today.

Holy hell that third bolt under the trans pump was miserable. Crows foot, a wobble extension, and a sore body tomorrow is all it took.

Steering pump looks ok. Bearings are good. I can BARELY catch a finger nail on the housing surface that the gear thrusts against. What do you guys think? New seals and slap it back together?

The trans pump is in poor shape. Bearings are shot and the gear was eating up the housing.

I’m going to price a replacement pump and see how quickly I can get back in action.

I would assume that filling these pumps with some oil prior to installation to prime them is the correct thing to do?

 

[leadfarmer]

More photos. Last two are the steering pump

 

[Cat977]

Thanks for the pictures! Good to see something caught before real problems. Steering pump looks good to me. I would coat the parts with oil, (or better yet would be an assembly lube) as you but them together. Priming would be good if needed. Is there a way to bleed air out?

 

[leadfarmer]

They're positive displacement pumps, so I'm not worried about getting air out, just want to make sure that on start up there is a fluid seal around the gears to make sure fluid suction happens quickly.

I called my local CAT dealer and they can't see any pumps in stock. They said list price is a little over $1,900 and to call back Monday when they can check stock with the mother ship or something.

Based on the price, I think I'm going to have to go aftermarket. I hate to do it, with a pump and one that is not fun to change, but here are my options. Which aftermarket option would you pick?

Offroad Equipment - $388 + shipping
CGR Ghinassi Made in Italy - $396 delivered
Costex Tractor Parts - $438 delivered

 

[AllDodge]

Which one has the best warranty?

 

[leadfarmer]

Offroad Equipment - $388 + $43 shipping - I would have to call to get warranty info, but their website shows it would be shipping from FL so I'm guessing it would be a Costex part.
CGR Ghinassi Made in Italy - $396 delivered - 12 month warranty - Also gets here Wednesday If I order today thanks to Amazon Prime!
Costex Tractor Parts - $438 delivered - 6 month warranty

 

[DMiller]

PDP will be less apt to air bind as pretty much a Positive Displacement with clearances tight, the wear patterns would allow internal pump bypass and residual pressure/volume losses.