Happy New 955L Owner With Questions

[leadfarmer]

I took the big plunge today into owning my first piece of heavy equipment. I have a lot of earth moving to do on my 23 acre property I purchased in August and my Kubota L3400 wouldn't cut it.

After looking at several crawler loaders I settled on this 955L for the price of $8,000.00 delivered so I think I did alright given that I already did some work with it today. It runs fantastic. Very healthy sounding and no smoke of any color.

First question is where would I find the serial number? The seller told me he used the engine serial number to have the dealer determine it was a 13X series machine but I want to verify and record the serial number obviously...plus I know how easy it makes posting questions! I don't see any metal tag on the back of the machine or under the dash.

No manuals were provided so I want to make sure I get the right ones.

I need to adjust the right brake. The clutches are working properly and the left brake works perfect, but I have to stand on the right brake with full force to get it to do anything. It seems to improve slightly as you run the machine. The pedal also does not return so I plan to take apart the pedal linkage and clean/grease everything. I found a few forum threads explaining the brake adjustment for this machine but I also like to have a manual on hand to follow and compare to.

Is it acceptable to shift this machine front forward to reverse without throttling down?

One of the curved hydraulic hard lines on the lift or roll cylinder has a pin hole leak where it appears to have been hit with something. Any chance a TIG weld repair would be successful? I have access to a weld shop with all the exotic welding rods you can imagine and a PMI gun to verify what the line is made of, but I just don't know if a weld repair on a hydraulic hard line is a crazy idea.

The air cleaner is missing the removable front facing metal cover and the air filter is held in place with some improvised stuff. Are there any sellers of used parts like that or am I stuck going to the dealer?

Thanks!

 

[Welder Dave]

Should be able to find used or aftermarket parts for it. 955L was very popular. Hyd. line could TIG welded but need to be removed and 110% clean. Gas welding or brazing has also been done successfully. If brazing build up about 3 times thicker so it will handle the pressure. A hyd. shop may be able to make a new line for you as well. Line is likely 1010 steel. After clean wouldn't hurt to warm up to make sure no oil residue is hanging around. Lots of discussion on throttle when reversing direction. The manual for my Cat loader states:
"Gear and directional shifts at full engine speed are permissible, however, for safety, operator comfort and maximum service life of power train components, decelerating and/or braking is recommended."
There's a reason most dozers have decelerators and the loader transmissions are basically the same thing. I think decelerating is a no brainer, why subject components to unnecessary shock loads. Looks like a real decent machine for $8000. Serial number might be stamped on the loader tower but I'm not real familiar where it would be on a 955. Others should be along shortly.

 

[seatwarmer]

try this:

 

[leadfarmer]

Should be able to find used or aftermarket parts for it. 955L was very popular. Hyd. line could TIG welded but need to be removed and 110% clean. Gas welding or brazing has also been done successfully. If brazing build up about 3 times thicker so it will handle the pressure. A hyd. shop may be able to make a new line for you as well. Line is likely 1010 steel. After clean wouldn't hurt to warm up to make sure no oil residue is hanging around. Lots of discussion on throttle when reversing direction. The manual for my Cat loader states:
"Gear and directional shifts at full engine speed are permissible, however, for safety, operator comfort and maximum service life of power train components, decelerating and/or braking is recommended."
There's a reason most dozers have decelerators and the loader transmissions are basically the same thing. I think decelerating is a no brainer, why subject components to unnecessary shock loads. Looks like a real decent machine for $8000. Serial number might be stamped on the loader tower but I'm not real familiar where it would be on a 955. Others should be along shortly.

What part are you referring to as the tower?

try this:

No tag to be found on the dash or bevel gear case unfortunately.

 

[seatwarmer]

It should be stamped into the bevel gear case. Something like this:

 

[Nige]

13X locations appear to be slightly different, especially on the bevel gear case. You may have to chip off layers of paint to find the stamped number on the frame if the plate itself has gone AWOL. Maybe see if you can locate the two holes where the rivets used to be..?

 

[Welder Dave]

My Cat 931b has the serial number stamped on the plates where the boom pivots from. Wasn't sure if the 955L would have it in the same place.

 

[Nige]

The tower is the support for the loader arms right in front of the cab. Take a look at the 2nd photo in the attachment I posted before.

 

[AllDodge]

My serial number plate is on the loader arm support

You can go forward to reverse without throttling down, but do this only with the clutches and not wide open

Breaks are adjusted by reaching under the fuel tank from the rear and you'll see 2 rounded metal covers. Remove those covers and under them will be a hex stud. Tighten the hex nut until its snug (not tight), then back off the stud 1.5 turns

 

[leadfarmer]

My serial number plate is on the loader arm support

You can go forward to reverse without throttling down, but do this only with the clutches and not wide open.

what do you mean by “with the clutches”?

 

[AllDodge]

Your brake peddel is both a clutch and a brake pedal. Press in first part disengages the clutches. pressing further applies the brake.

Will add, I would not be rolling FWD or REV and shift in the other direction unless movement is hardly moving (real slow). It could probably take it if the clutches were eased in but not good practice

 

[leadfarmer]

Ah, now I understand. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[DB2]

Decelerating and stopping while changing directions is much easier on the final drives and the undercarriage in general. Make sure to check final drive oil and keep an eye out for leaks or check more frequently when operating in sloppy conditions that make leaks harder to spot. Great older machines that could put out a lot of work.

 

[leadfarmer]

Well I see where my serial number tag once was on the tower. No evidence of a number stamped in the metal around it. I can remove the paint and check it out.

Any chance the serial number is on the back of the bevel gear case behind the bolted on cast weight?

 

[AllDodge]

I doubt it,

Suggest using paint remover to see if numbers will show up

 

[kshansen]

I doubt it,

Suggest using paint remover to see if numbers will show up

Yes don't go crazy with a grinder o sander as the stamped in numbers can be a bit faint on some machines.
I'd go with some spry paint remover and use a stiff plastic brush to clean the area around the rivet holes. Often the stamped in numbers are above where the tag would be but almost always real close by.

 

[DB2]

Can you find the engine serial number ?

 

[Nige]

Any chance the serial number is on the back of the bevel gear case behind the bolted on cast weight?

Post a photo showing where the weight is located.

 

[leadfarmer]

I am referring to the weight circled in red above the draw bar.

 

[Nige]

Shouldn't be obscuring anything, but it's hard to tell from the photo because it's taken from almost side-on. Here's the relevant photo in the attachment I posted above (post #6) for 13X Serial Number locations.
From experience this is the most likely location to have a Serial Number stamped on the frame. 2nd most likely would be the loader tower.