lol. I have the steel for one on the ground, but any hole I dig atm becomes a bore rather than a footing.....
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Happy New 955L Owner With Questions
- Thread starter leadfarmer
- Start date
lol. I have the steel for one on the ground, but any hole I dig atm becomes a bore rather than a footing.....
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
Said screw the snow flurries and installed the pump tonight.
I tightened the gear to the pump and found I didnt have the 1/4” pin in all the way. Rotated the motor till the pin fell in. Unbolted the gear from the pump and then continued rotating the motor till my marks lined up on the timing gears that I made (total of 2 motor revolutions to line the marks up). Checked the bolt went in the flywheel hole and the pin was in the pump properly. Tightened the pump to the gear. I sure hope I did it right. The marks I made on the timing gears with paint stick came in handy.
Guess I will plug in the block heater after work tomorrow and try to start it tomorrow night.
I checked the resistance of each block heater. 3 are around 4.5 ohms and 1 has 7.7 ohms. Should I replace the high one?
I tightened the gear to the pump and found I didnt have the 1/4” pin in all the way. Rotated the motor till the pin fell in. Unbolted the gear from the pump and then continued rotating the motor till my marks lined up on the timing gears that I made (total of 2 motor revolutions to line the marks up). Checked the bolt went in the flywheel hole and the pin was in the pump properly. Tightened the pump to the gear. I sure hope I did it right. The marks I made on the timing gears with paint stick came in handy.
Guess I will plug in the block heater after work tomorrow and try to start it tomorrow night.
I checked the resistance of each block heater. 3 are around 4.5 ohms and 1 has 7.7 ohms. Should I replace the high one?
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
- Messages
- 7,539
- Location
- Sunny South Carolina
- Occupation
- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Replace ALL 4..
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
4 ordered. Also ordered the lead assembly since the wires look like hell.
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
Probably a stupid question. When I turned the engine over twice by hand I realize now I went the wrong direction (clockwise when viewed from the back). Just an overly cautious thought, can the oil pump lose its prime because of this? Obviously the gauge will tell me when I go to start it.
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Should not make any difference. If it makes you feel any better before heating the glow plugs to start engine crank the engine over a few seconds till you see the pressure gauge start to move. Then heat the glow plugs and start the engine.
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
It lives! Last night I Finished installing the pump, ran the block heater a few hours, bled everything, and it fired up.
This morning I ran the block heater a few hours again then got to work with it.
It sounds good. Runs strong. No bogging down. Idle sounds smoother than before.
I STILL have to purge air out of the pump each time I start it. It’s sucking air somewhere still.
The fuel pressure gauge is dipping almost to zero when I’m running hard but the machine doesn’t bog down. Most of the time it was between the 11 o clock and 1 o clock positions (see picture).
I’m thinking about swapping my old hand primer pump back on. The new one I got from cat has fuel coming out around the plunger when I’m using it, so I’m guessing thats not right! Picture attached.
Another one of my random thoughts: Should I bleed air out of the line going to the fuel gauge?
This morning I ran the block heater a few hours again then got to work with it.
It sounds good. Runs strong. No bogging down. Idle sounds smoother than before.
I STILL have to purge air out of the pump each time I start it. It’s sucking air somewhere still.
The fuel pressure gauge is dipping almost to zero when I’m running hard but the machine doesn’t bog down. Most of the time it was between the 11 o clock and 1 o clock positions (see picture).
I’m thinking about swapping my old hand primer pump back on. The new one I got from cat has fuel coming out around the plunger when I’m using it, so I’m guessing thats not right! Picture attached.
Another one of my random thoughts: Should I bleed air out of the line going to the fuel gauge?
Attachments
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
Swapped the new cat hand primer pump for my old one and problems solved. Fuel pressure is pegged and it starts easy.
UNTIL my 4th time starting it today to load shale.
Just clicks. Batteries are good.
try to jump the solenoid with a screw driver and it tries to weld itself to the terminals.
A hundred more clicks with the key and cant get lucky.
starter seems to be stuck. So im pulling it now with the loader arms down and this is really fun
UNTIL my 4th time starting it today to load shale.
Just clicks. Batteries are good.
try to jump the solenoid with a screw driver and it tries to weld itself to the terminals.
A hundred more clicks with the key and cant get lucky.
starter seems to be stuck. So im pulling it now with the loader arms down and this is really fun
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
I smacked it around like it owed me money. Until the head flew off the hammer. Didnt help.
dropping it off at the local starter guy tomorrow
pulling it up and out was a feat. I will have to drop the front pans and lift it up to put it back in
dropping it off at the local starter guy tomorrow
pulling it up and out was a feat. I will have to drop the front pans and lift it up to put it back in
Attachments
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
I did something similar with the starter in my dump truck on the 454. Lightweight high torque. I will have to do some research into what I can buy.
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
Can anyone tell me if my engine should have a 40MT starter? Serial numbers in signature
I'm coming up with 2 part numbers 7N1285 and 3P0006
Went to Delcoremy.com and was unable to cross the part numbers
Looked up the starter by application (955L and 3304 motor)
39MT having 12 teeth (8200435) and does not have the nose cone
https://www.delcoremy.com/find-a-part/product-details/8200435
Went to Delcoremy.com and was unable to cross the part numbers
Looked up the starter by application (955L and 3304 motor)
39MT having 12 teeth (8200435) and does not have the nose cone
https://www.delcoremy.com/find-a-part/product-details/8200435
Nige
Senior Member
There are a raft of starter motor Part Numbers listed for 85J9510-Up. 7S-4090, 5N-3182, 3P-0006, 4N-7752, & 2P-2502. All of the foregoing service to 6V-5227 (and ultimately to 207-1560) which are both 42-MT starter motors.
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
I took my starter to my local guy this morning. He said what I brought him is a Prestolite that is too small to be on my machine, should be a 40MT. He said the 40MT is longer than what I have, and I was concerned about it having a fitment issue with the turbo oil lines.
In my parts book it shows both a 7S4090 (Delco-Remy) or a 4N7752 (Prestolite). The 4N7752 visually matches what I have. The book doesn't give any hint at when to use either one.
Talking to my local parts guy his system shows these options for my machine: 4N7901 (Prestolite), 4N7902 - (Delco-Remy).
He said these all supersede to 10R0399, a 42MT, which jives with Nige's info.
I called the local guy and told him Cat says I need a 42MT, not a 40MT. He said the 42MT is a newer version of the 40MT with a different solenoid, the starter motors are physically the same size, and he things the 40MT is a better starter than the 42MT.
Guess we will find out tonight if the 40MT fits. Another $500 thrown at the 955L. I figured the alternator would be the next thing to go since I drenched it in fuel when I was doing injection pump things. I had something covering it but it got bumped and fell. This machine still does more than enough work to justify the repairs though.
In my parts book it shows both a 7S4090 (Delco-Remy) or a 4N7752 (Prestolite). The 4N7752 visually matches what I have. The book doesn't give any hint at when to use either one.
Talking to my local parts guy his system shows these options for my machine: 4N7901 (Prestolite), 4N7902 - (Delco-Remy).
He said these all supersede to 10R0399, a 42MT, which jives with Nige's info.
I called the local guy and told him Cat says I need a 42MT, not a 40MT. He said the 42MT is a newer version of the 40MT with a different solenoid, the starter motors are physically the same size, and he things the 40MT is a better starter than the 42MT.
Guess we will find out tonight if the 40MT fits. Another $500 thrown at the 955L. I figured the alternator would be the next thing to go since I drenched it in fuel when I was doing injection pump things. I had something covering it but it got bumped and fell. This machine still does more than enough work to justify the repairs though.
fest777
Well-Known Member
any old starter off of a truck or stationary equipt should work ,just dont try putting a 50mt it may be too big,make sure it turns the right direction is 24v and the nose cone is correct, plus teeth count, $500.00 is a bit high any wrecker should sell you one for a dollar to a dollar and a half, if iam right a brand new one is around 600.00 find a better deal, out here on the left coast rebuilders used too build you one if you brought them 2 buildable cores but that was a while back ,now with all the china junk around new starters are around $250.00 online but the quality is questionable
leadfarmer
Well-Known Member
It was $492, which included a $50 core charge I had to pay. Picked up it on my lunch break and putting it in tonight.
I might get my old starter rebuilt for a spare, never enough heavy things laying around here.
I did see all the online options at those prices but I want to run the machine tomorrow, so to heck with it. What's another few bills on the fire at this point. Guess I'll be putting in some more OT hours this winter when there's nothing to do outside.
I might get my old starter rebuilt for a spare, never enough heavy things laying around here.
I did see all the online options at those prices but I want to run the machine tomorrow, so to heck with it. What's another few bills on the fire at this point. Guess I'll be putting in some more OT hours this winter when there's nothing to do outside.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
In the overall scheme of things $500 to have a good reliable starter, especially in a difficult to replace location isn't too bad. If you think a 955 is a PIA to R&R try a 931B loader with a ND starter. Requires 2 people, belly pan has to come off and 1 of the bolts is a pain to get to. Maybe 1/4" clearance from the frame.