Shunta
Member
Greetings oh great guru's of the heavy equipment forums!
1973 Galion A series grader, D236 IH diesel.
Simple question, what is SUPPOSED to be the stock length of the chains in the tandem drives?
Issue:
Friend now owns this grader. After replacing the injector pump and making her run again after 3-4 years sitting (pump cost more than the grader did), moved on to making brakes work. New master cyl, new lines, new wheel cylinders, new (relined) shoes, had one axle spin free so pulled inspection plate and no chain on left rear axle. Pulled old chain out and found 18 fractured links and half dozen repair links.
Resolution so far:
Ordered a 6 ft series 60 double roller from McMaster, lined up next to old chain, and pin for pin, link for link same size. Installed new chain with little issue once I figured out to pull the big round center cover (duh) AND inner and outer side inspection plates to allow the insertion of the master link. Total time to replace less than 10 minutes.
Concern:
I plan on jacking up entire tandem to free both wheels from the ground, but observation right now shows the front left drive chain appears to be 1 to 2 links SHORTER than replaced 6ft chain on left rear. Inspection ALSO shows (through big round side plate) no less than 10 replacement master links visible on front old chain. There is probably 3 inches of chain "droop" on new chain, with a bit less on "old" front chain.
Question (finally):
What is SUPPOSED to be the actual length of the drive chain, OR how much slack should there be (droop), or am I missing something in my thoughts? I'm GUESSING that front and rear chains should have same amount of slack, but how much is ok? And should the slack be the same on both sides (I'm guessing the answer is yes here...)
Thanks for any advice, and I'll try to promptly answer any questions....
1973 Galion A series grader, D236 IH diesel.
Simple question, what is SUPPOSED to be the stock length of the chains in the tandem drives?
Issue:
Friend now owns this grader. After replacing the injector pump and making her run again after 3-4 years sitting (pump cost more than the grader did), moved on to making brakes work. New master cyl, new lines, new wheel cylinders, new (relined) shoes, had one axle spin free so pulled inspection plate and no chain on left rear axle. Pulled old chain out and found 18 fractured links and half dozen repair links.
Resolution so far:
Ordered a 6 ft series 60 double roller from McMaster, lined up next to old chain, and pin for pin, link for link same size. Installed new chain with little issue once I figured out to pull the big round center cover (duh) AND inner and outer side inspection plates to allow the insertion of the master link. Total time to replace less than 10 minutes.
Concern:
I plan on jacking up entire tandem to free both wheels from the ground, but observation right now shows the front left drive chain appears to be 1 to 2 links SHORTER than replaced 6ft chain on left rear. Inspection ALSO shows (through big round side plate) no less than 10 replacement master links visible on front old chain. There is probably 3 inches of chain "droop" on new chain, with a bit less on "old" front chain.
Question (finally):
What is SUPPOSED to be the actual length of the drive chain, OR how much slack should there be (droop), or am I missing something in my thoughts? I'm GUESSING that front and rear chains should have same amount of slack, but how much is ok? And should the slack be the same on both sides (I'm guessing the answer is yes here...)
Thanks for any advice, and I'll try to promptly answer any questions....