Roger on the Stihl cut off idea.Just happen to have that beast in the stable and will try it out tomorrow.The pins are case hardened:if you get enough heat on them.it'll draw the temper and several hundred sawzall blades would eventually cut through.We'll see if this puppy wags its tail when it meets Mr.Stihl.
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Frozen Pins
- Thread starter hotsacks
- Start date
hotsacks-= went back to begining of thread to see why you wanted the ram off the hoe. You said you wanted to replace the seal. Thought i would suggest that you can change the seals with the ram left on the outrigger. Remove the pin on the machine side of ram (if it isnt froze also) and unspin the canister off the rod . Then change packing and seal. I know this is a little tough. BUt.... so is cutting the pin with a cut off saw , because you still have to find a way to get the original pin out of the outrigger flanges and install a new one. Just a thought. doug
Good thinkin'...:thumbsup
ADMSWELDING
Well-Known Member
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- Jan 8, 2006
- Messages
- 53
- Location
- STONEHAM MASS.
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- CERTIFIED WELDER/UNION SHEETMETAL WORKER LOCAL 17
Sorry about the caps:Banghead Now that i see this picture even though it is not yours i have seen this problem before on a 416cat hoe.To answer one question yes a oxygen lance/arcslice is good for this but not needed.the heating and cooling affect does do damage if not done conservitable meaning with common sense if your solidifying the metal yes it will cause damage but i,m no metallurgirst to go into details .i,d go with cutting next to the cylinder rod with a torch if your not confident with a torch use a portaband saw or .045 cut off wheel in a 4-1/2 in grinder swing the rod out of the way and take out what is left with a torch again cutting out the center and drive out when cool you need a big tip and full size bottles to run a big #4 cutting tip good luck youll get it with some effort.:thumbsup
digger242j
Administrator
Not a problem. I looked at your other posts and since you don't make a habit of it, I figured you'd done what I do sometimes--hit the capslock key by mistake, and done "hunt and peck" style typing, never looking up at the screen til the message was finished. Now, it's all in caps, except for the "i", and damned if you're going to go back and re-do the whole thing.
(No thread hijacking tonight, at least not to discuss typing style. Back to the topic...)
Ford LT-9000
Banned
There is usually a bolt that holds the pin in I hope you have removed it :laugh
A zip disk works good we use them all the time just have to be carefull they don't shatter which is easy to do. We buy the Makita brand I forget what size they are but they are only 1/8 thick. A angle grinder with a good handle on it is the best.
Are you sure the pin isn't bent which is preventing it to move ?
Usually pins don't stick in the rod ends unless its never seen grease. If the pin is frozen in the rod end then the holes in the stabilizer would be worn and the bolt that holds the pin in sheered off.
A air chisel with a blunt end works good for pushing pins out.
A zip disk works good we use them all the time just have to be carefull they don't shatter which is easy to do. We buy the Makita brand I forget what size they are but they are only 1/8 thick. A angle grinder with a good handle on it is the best.
Are you sure the pin isn't bent which is preventing it to move ?
Usually pins don't stick in the rod ends unless its never seen grease. If the pin is frozen in the rod end then the holes in the stabilizer would be worn and the bolt that holds the pin in sheered off.
A air chisel with a blunt end works good for pushing pins out.
Countryboy
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2006
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- 3,276
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- Georgia
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- Load Out Tech. / Heavy Equipment Operator / Locomo
Ford, I think Xkvator posted a picture of the same model backhoe as the one that is in question. If the pin is the same then it has a clip on each end instead of the bolt.
I really like the air chisel idea. I would try that next if it were me.:yup
I really like the air chisel idea. I would try that next if it were me.:yup
Xkvator:Haven't got it out but haven't tried the grinder yet I thought I'd have a few days down time but the phone started ringing and...
The pin could be bent on a machine this old but doesn't look it.There are no zerks in the lower pins so I'm guessing I'm not the first with this problem.I was thinking what a find this thread will be for guys stuck/confounded by the Pin From Hell in the future.
Interesting someone mentioned removing the top pin and replacing the seals with the cylinder in place.Can anyone confirm/deny this can be done? It won't help in my case because I'm pretty sure the rod is bent and needs replacing but it'd be good to know this can actually be done.
Maybe we should start a thread on cylinder seals.That's another topic hard to find info on.
Come to think of it,why not start a complete open source project for hoe maintenance/repair? Go through each component with all the do's and don'ts people have come up with in this thread?Most of us with older equipment know how hard good info is to get to keep us running so it's something to think about...
I'm probably not going to get to cutting until the weekend but will definitely keep all posted on progress.
The pin could be bent on a machine this old but doesn't look it.There are no zerks in the lower pins so I'm guessing I'm not the first with this problem.I was thinking what a find this thread will be for guys stuck/confounded by the Pin From Hell in the future.
Interesting someone mentioned removing the top pin and replacing the seals with the cylinder in place.Can anyone confirm/deny this can be done? It won't help in my case because I'm pretty sure the rod is bent and needs replacing but it'd be good to know this can actually be done.
Maybe we should start a thread on cylinder seals.That's another topic hard to find info on.
Come to think of it,why not start a complete open source project for hoe maintenance/repair? Go through each component with all the do's and don'ts people have come up with in this thread?Most of us with older equipment know how hard good info is to get to keep us running so it's something to think about...
I'm probably not going to get to cutting until the weekend but will definitely keep all posted on progress.
Hotsacks.- I mentioned taking out the top pin and repacking that way. And it could be done on mine because i looked at it.
But.... now you mention your rod is bent? So why screw around, just cut the rod end off and pin everything with the torch. Forget working on just the pin. I assumed you were saving the rod . doug
But.... now you mention your rod is bent? So why screw around, just cut the rod end off and pin everything with the torch. Forget working on just the pin. I assumed you were saving the rod . doug
DON'T ruin your rod end...if the rod is bent, a hydraulic shop will reuse the end...they can weld it on to a new piece of rod stock.
cheaper than buying one from Case.
also...if the rod is bent...extend it all the way before you disconect the hoses...
and loosen the end cap with the spanner before you take the cyl. off. - it may be tight if the rod is bent close to the cyl.
I don't think the small pin is bent...but if your rod is...it probably is jamming the pin
On a 580K...if you swing & crowd in a 24" bucket it will contact the stabilizer cyl., bending the rod.
when i was looking to buy this 580 i have now, the dealer lent it to a guy that had his in their shop so he could finish the job that day.
the next day i put money down so it didn't turn into a rental...
i had already ran & looked over the machine...so i just took another quick look.
when i got the machine home and put the stabilizers down, i saw right away that one rod was bent.
dealer took care of it.
ther's no grease fittings on the lower stabilizer pins or the lower bucket pins cause the grease will hold the dirt/stone
cheaper than buying one from Case.
also...if the rod is bent...extend it all the way before you disconect the hoses...
and loosen the end cap with the spanner before you take the cyl. off. - it may be tight if the rod is bent close to the cyl.
I don't think the small pin is bent...but if your rod is...it probably is jamming the pin
On a 580K...if you swing & crowd in a 24" bucket it will contact the stabilizer cyl., bending the rod.
when i was looking to buy this 580 i have now, the dealer lent it to a guy that had his in their shop so he could finish the job that day.
the next day i put money down so it didn't turn into a rental...
i had already ran & looked over the machine...so i just took another quick look.
when i got the machine home and put the stabilizers down, i saw right away that one rod was bent.
dealer took care of it.
ther's no grease fittings on the lower stabilizer pins or the lower bucket pins cause the grease will hold the dirt/stone
Last edited:
case310350
Well-Known Member
pin
I have done several of these pins on john deeres and cases, I have a case 580k right now. what I have found is the pins at the machine will bend and you will never get them out, you have to burn from both ends and drop it. but in your case the pin is stuck on the bushing. again its comes down to burning or if you have room cutting it so you can drop it and then cut it out of the rod. it messy but not that hard to do. From my experience a hammer and heat just won't get them out. a 50 ton porta power in some cases will remove them.
the pins are hard through out, not just case harden. good luck, clean the torch tip now and then. I use oxy propane for projects like this. greg
I have done several of these pins on john deeres and cases, I have a case 580k right now. what I have found is the pins at the machine will bend and you will never get them out, you have to burn from both ends and drop it. but in your case the pin is stuck on the bushing. again its comes down to burning or if you have room cutting it so you can drop it and then cut it out of the rod. it messy but not that hard to do. From my experience a hammer and heat just won't get them out. a 50 ton porta power in some cases will remove them.
the pins are hard through out, not just case harden. good luck, clean the torch tip now and then. I use oxy propane for projects like this. greg
Well,I'm not sure the rod's bent but it's a miracle if it isn't.A few weeks ago,I was backing down a 60% grade and the brakes let go (another thread).I put down my coffee and newspaper and realized I better do something because,after the steep grade,was a steeper cliff.I turned off the radio to do some thinking on it and decided the way to go was lower a stabilizer and hook a tree.Worked just fine.Good decision but maybe a little hard on the stabilizer.Anyways,I told my wife,it needed new seals.
I've heard of the dry ice trick with new pins.Don't know Wurth's.Any Canookistanis know a Canadian brand?
Yeah,new pins.Another thread.
I've heard of the dry ice trick with new pins.Don't know Wurth's.Any Canookistanis know a Canadian brand?
Yeah,new pins.Another thread.
Grader4me
Senior Member
I feel bad that you had to put down your newspaper & coffee.:spaz ..The things a person has to do when there is a hard decision to make:bouncegriSorry I haven't kept up on this thread but no time these days...I got a chance on Saturday to use a metal grind blade on the pin and it works...sort of.Cuts fine but it's too far a reach for a 4.5 wheel. Need a 5" or a 7" for sure. It took about 5 minutes to cut half way through both sides of the pin.Seemed to cut like mild steel (no temper).Easy.anyways.
What is everyone using for grinders?DeWalt's got a sale on a 5" for C$89.Milwaukees are $149. Opinions,advice,rants etc?
What is everyone using for grinders?DeWalt's got a sale on a 5" for C$89.Milwaukees are $149. Opinions,advice,rants etc?
Countryboy
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- Georgia
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- Load Out Tech. / Heavy Equipment Operator / Locomo
Dewalt:yup
ADMSWELDING
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- STONEHAM MASS.
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- CERTIFIED WELDER/UNION SHEETMETAL WORKER LOCAL 17
I have boch,dewault,milwaukie,metabo.By far the best is the metabo there tools are great.I have burnt out 2 dewaults.
Ford LT-9000
Banned
All we use in our shop a 7" Makita and Makita grinders they are used allot in the welding shops around here. A 7" Makita isn't cheap they are about 250.00 dollars CND but we do get 10 years out of them.
We found most 5" grinders junk even the Makita they burned out too quick and they don't have the power. We use 4" grinders for wire wheeling with a flat 4" twist knot wheel. We have two old 7" Black and Decker grinders they are old its what my grandpa used to use when he was a welder. Those old angle grinders are heavy and known to give you a nice shock if your in any kind of wet conditions.
For the zip disks we have a cheap light weight 7" grinder we get them from Princess auto they work great. Its easy to controll we got them on sale I think they were around 80 bucks they also work good for sanding.
We found most 5" grinders junk even the Makita they burned out too quick and they don't have the power. We use 4" grinders for wire wheeling with a flat 4" twist knot wheel. We have two old 7" Black and Decker grinders they are old its what my grandpa used to use when he was a welder. Those old angle grinders are heavy and known to give you a nice shock if your in any kind of wet conditions.
For the zip disks we have a cheap light weight 7" grinder we get them from Princess auto they work great. Its easy to controll we got them on sale I think they were around 80 bucks they also work good for sanding.