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Finish Grading Tips

rezod1

Active Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
26
Location
central illinois
time in the seat, and a good teacher best for beginers. problem is no one wants to baby sit new operators. but having a small amount of material in front of the blade does help considerably, especially on smaller short tracked machines.
 

vapor300

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
382
Location
St. louis
the most well balanced machine i have ever finsihed with was a 8T with 28 inch pads without a ripper. The hardest was a D6t xl with a vpat blade and rippers, man that thing was just so unbalanced
 

Dr. Ernie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 26, 2008
Messages
123
Location
Michigian, USA
To get good at finnish grading, get yourself a gas start TD-9 with a 4 roller undercarage with a sloped out non adjistable blade. Then grade as many differant surfaces as you can, my favorite is sand with a clay ribons in it. Spots in Michigian are interesting, as you can go from muck to rockish clay with a touch of quicksand in less than 30'. After you have put a thousand gallons of fuel through it then you are starting to learn.
 

pf/l

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
236
Location
Prince Albert Saskatchewan
Occupation
Farmer/logger/heavy equipment op.
I'll usually start out in first till I get things levelled out to where I feel comfartable going up to 2nd then just stay on the bit. Lots say not to run the blade out empty but for me personally I find it easier to keep everything on grade that way. If I'm just pushing dirt to move it from here to there then I don't run the blade empty at all.
 

ironpounder

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
22
Location
Virginia
Just a tidbit...
Last weekend I replaced the seat in my TD7, being able to sit properly in the machine made a huge difference in being able to control the machine!
 

alaskaforby4

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
536
Location
Alaska
Occupation
Owner Operator
Invision the exactly how you want it before you start. Be carefull what you think, because your thoughts become your reality. As my old boss used to say " you have to have a leveling bubble in your butt" If you feel a change, its too late.
 

Greg

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2008
Messages
1,175
Location
Wi
Occupation
Excavating Contractor
My dad and you must have gone to the same school alaskaforby4. He used to say "use that gyroscope that I planted in your ass when you were a very little boy."
 

fraser

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
5
Location
New Jersey
All good info. Always keep some dirt on the blade, If you get some rollers in your path adjust your speed a little and work over them on a slight angle. Only go as fast as you can handle. Always have a plan and work toward it. Backblading is fine , makes your work look great but not worth a damn if your not on grade. Bulldozers are best suited to pushing forward, and if you have a lot of debris in the ground you will get a smoother finish pushing across than backblading where you will get that debris jammed under the blade and just leave big holes in your work.
 

Bluetop Man

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
266
Location
Louisiana
Occupation
farmer
Kind of an old thread, but here goes my two cents worth.

I believe the OP stated he was attempting to finish with a six-way angle blade dozer. First, it is going to take you a while to become a finish dozer hand, so don't overload your expectations. A motor grader will sort of run itself to a degree, but a dozer, it's all on you.

Secondly, put a slight angle to the blade, throttle way down and sever your way through material, don't shear. This is especially helpful in any cohesive material with a higher plasticity index (read clay).

I knew an old guy who would slice through Louisiana gumbo by just holding pressure on the blade with the dozer not tracking until the clay started giving it up. The he'd work the angle control one way and the other and shave the knots right off. When he still felt the knot, he'd back up and cut it down to the surrounding pass elevation. I used to watch him do highway work so good, some grader operators couldn't touch him. His favorite dozer was a narrow pad, narrow blade D4 CAT with foot steering when I knew him in the early 90's. This guy could cut 1/4-inch paving grade using that slanted angle blade technique. He truly had taken dozer operation to new heights. The company had tried him on motor graders and he simply could not run one. Which, of course, was a good thing for guys like me.

Anyway, didn't mean to wax poetic so much. That's my story and I's stickin' to it.
 

jonna

Banned
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
1
Location
russia
[URL="http://xxxxxxxxxx]http://xxxxxxxxxx[/URL]
 
Last edited by a moderator:

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,400
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Do you mean that if I cut a fiber optic cable, that stuff is all I need to fix it before AT&T arrives???

Please don't respond to spammers, I now have to leave their post here so thread doesn't get discombobulated. :)
 
Last edited:

mont

New Member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
2
Location
central qld
Mate, if you have done a reasonable job of it, just let your tracks do all the work! Track rolling the site will spread and pack down a lot of your windrows. Work in one direction then go at it again at 45 degrees...
 

mont

New Member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
2
Location
central qld
Mate, If you do a half decent job of it just let your tracks do all the work! They compact your windrows and if you work in one direction then hit it again at 45 degrees you will be surprised...
 

Digger321b

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2012
Messages
13
Location
Australia
Occupation
heavy machine operator
Try and get a slop meter, they help with knowing what the % of grade you are working on, and take your time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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