Draining coolant from the block

[Welder Dave]

I want to drain all the old coolant in my tractor since I'm replacing a hose. The rad. drain works fine but I want to drain the block as well. There may be a block drain but it's nearly impossible to get at with the loader frame in the way. I have a heater mounted on the top of the cab. I was thinking I could pull a heater hose(s) and blow air into it to blow the coolant into the rad where it will drain. I'd leave the rad. drain open. I don't really want to remove the lower rad hose incase it is stuck and gets damaged trying to remove it. I don't think there's much chance of over pressurizing the cooling system just using a rag or something around a blow gun. I could regulate the pressure down though. Would this work and is it a good idea to get the most old coolant out?

 

[Truck Shop]

Never going to get all, it won't make a hoot if some is left.

 

[Welder Dave]

Would putting the new hose on, filling it with rain water and then parking on a steep downhill to drain it flush any junk out and get more drained out? I put a bunch of rain water in it to find the leak and think any coolant left will be mostly water. I want to make sure I have enough freeze protection and hoping the 50/50 will be enough without having to buy another jug of straight antifreeze I only need a little of.

 

[56wrench]

If the heater on top of the cab airlocks, you will wish you had left well enough alone

 

[Welder Dave]

Thanks for mentioning that. When I mounted the heater about 40 years ago I remember it took a long time to get coolant up to the heater and circulating. I don't know if the coolant in the heater would drain when I emptied the rad. or not?

 

[56wrench]

I like to install shutoff valves at the engine for both heater hoses so if you have to drain the block you can isolate the heater

 

[Welder Dave]

I have a shut off on 1 heater hose but don't think it was shut off. I'm not sure how much coolant would have drained out of the heater. I hope the water pump is good and I don't have any other damage than a split rad. hose.

 

[KisstDiagnostics]

There is a Coolant Service tool actually that works great to empty and fill systems with air power and vacuum via a manifold with gauges but you never don’t want to exceed system operating pressure

 

[Cliffy]

Those vacuum coolant things are good but i think your over thinking it. Its a 60+ year old cast iron block, brass radiator tractor. She has probably spent 20 years with just dam water in it.
If you know what coolant is in it, (and have the same) drain, and refill. Bleed air and done.
If you dont know it will pay to flush it out.
Unless your garden tap is bore water, pull radiator hoses and one heater hose (preferably not the one from water pump end) and flush water from garden hose up heater hose, through heater and out of bottom radiator hose. Then flush radiator bottom to top. Put new hoses on and Roughly guess mixture and fill it up. Run with out cap on with heater on. Block airflow if it wont get hot. When thermostat opens, put cap on. Shut down and let it cool. Top up radiator next day.

 

[Welder Dave]

Not sure if it's a brass radiator but it's always had antifreeze/coolant in it. It would have a cracked block if it only had water in it. Didn't appear to have much of an air pocket when I filled the rad. Got it up to temp. and after cooling off could still see coolant in the rad. Technically it's an antique but it's still pretty modern. It will probably last another 60 years if it's maintained. I doubt any of the modern electronic tractors will last 60 years. MF135's with the 3 cylinder Perkins diesel are the most sought after used tractors. They're simple and more reliable than a claw hammer. That's why there are companies that specialize in restoring them. A fully restored example with a cab sold for over $17,000!

 

[Cliffy]

I spent a number of years spinning spanners at a ** dealer. Those old girls will out live you, me and the internet.
Funny you mentioned a claw hammer. I worked with a mechanic who used a claw hammer for everything. Reckons it was the best tool for seal removal.

 

[Pony]

You better speak American Cliffy, I can hear them googling "spanner" from here.

 

[Truck Shop]

You better speak American Cliffy, I can hear them googling "spanner" from here.

Not hardly.

 

[eastroad]

wait until he mentions a slip spinner or raves about his trusty Bahco.

 

[Welder Dave]

Or using a torch to check how much gasoline is in the tank!
My 135 is an early one. Casting date on the oil pan is 9 12 64. Serial number is F (multi-power) 3742. Starting serial number is 101. It's a bit of an oddity too. It's a UK tractor but has some US characteristics. US style fenders with the lights on them instead of in the grill. I read that some UK models were sent to Canada (N. America?) because US production couldn't keep up with dims cab off a US made MF20 industrial on it. The cab was on a US 135 I saw for sale. I got the cab for $250 plus my fenders. I had to build a door and rear window frame. I couldn't use the floor boards around the pedals because they were 2 inches too high and I had to extend the top link attachment 7" so the top link wouldn't hit the cab when lifted. I also extended the 3pt. arms but might not have had to. Draft control still works properly so all is good. A little noisy but sure nice if it's drizzling or crappy weather. The doors flip open 180 deg's. and it's tall enough to stand up in. One of these years I hope to paint it so it looks nicer. Mechanically it's in very good condition and I maintain it pretty good. I see a lot of older tractors the owners just neglect like it's too hard to grease them occasionally. I need to pull the wheels and get the brake drums off but have read it's hard to get the countersunk bolts out. I think the brake pads are glazed pretty good.

 

[Pony]

I did the brakes on my MF35 a while ago and mine came out easily.
Yours should be the same rear end I think.

 

[Welder Dave]

Very similar. I've read the bolts can be a pain to remove. I've got an impact driver that may work to get them loose.

 

[Bootheal]

On newer stuff, how to setup for vacuuming the coolant system?

 

[JEVANS]

I would drain it however is simple and easy. Do what ya gotta do and fill it back up with coolant. Run it ensure its up to temp everything is circulating and your good. Then use a hydrometer?( coolant strength tester) check freeze strength. Good? Good. Not good? Add more coolant and repeat. Can pick up a coolant tester fairly cheap I imagine. Want to get more of the old spent coolant out? Drain the rad again and refill with fresh coolant. Instead of giving yourself greif trying to get the coolant in hard to reach areas, make the coolant come to you on your terms!

 

[JEVANS]

Fyi you could buy a el’cheapo vacuum filler kit off Amazon for a decent price. I love my Air lift, but a little spendy.