Hello all, I have a D8H with about 7K hours on it and it is time for a new UC. I’ve never tackled a project of this size. Could use some advice or if anyone has a pdf or video that offers tips and tricks. This isn’t my first rodeo with UC so I’m not a newb but definitely don’t think I know it all. I have these items new ready to go sitting in the yard. New Wet track sets 24in grousers I believe. All new top and bottom rollers, new idlers, new sprocket’s segments on a set of spare new hubs. Also replacing the rubber “suspension” pads on the track frames. new bolts and hardware. Machine has a single shank ripper on it. Got multiple other pieces of equipment, excavator, workers, wife and such to aid in install. Gonna be some country fun where I’m doing the in the barn yard. I appreciate any advice specifically on stuff you would do differently if to do it again. Use the machine for clearing woods in the northeast, and probably one day reclaiming fields from failed green energy projects.
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D8H undercarriage replacement advice.
- Thread starter D8HCattle
- Start date
Drying the tracks out won’t be a problem got some paper towels. 46A 1972 machine power shift. Thank you! Good stuff.
In the Cat world we have this thing called serial numbers to identify tractors .
That tractor had several undercarriage updates
And in 48 years who knows what has been replaced other than the hour meter.
Since you have to remove track frames any way they are turned upside down to replace rollers and wear strips.
You will have to round up a 100 ton sprocket press and tooling.
The best way to do it would be hire some one who knows how to do this work.
Bob
46A27283, does this help
DMiller
Senior Member
Easier to replace segments than entire sprocket hubs unless are loose or leaking profusely, easier yet to pull track trucks and visually inspect everything on the machine based on age and having upside down for serious impact use or heat and beat to remove stubborn to broken roller attachments. SALT or Lubricated Rails are not referred to as 'Wet' where the age of your machine could have dry pin or also have had SALT rails previously installed as a replacement type. Good time to inspect recoil system, better time still to replace Idlers and rebuild/reseal the track tensioner pistons, inspect truck assemblies for cracking or the main attachment points for wear or damage. LOADS of Cribbing materials will be essential to support the frame of the machine as perform said work. Also HIGHLY recommend the belly pans come off at some point and cleanout performed if has been 'Awhile'.
A professional undercarriage assessment should have been done before you bought the "farm".......so to speak.
If this is anything like mine.........all she is going to help with is telling you that you are not doing it right.
My advice would be to have your existing undercarriage evaluated. You may have bought a whole bunch of stuff you didn't need for farm dozer use. Unless of course, you like to spend your wifes shoe money
The best thing you can do to get the most life out of your undercarriage is to block out 3rd gear on the powershift. I've been running my old 46a that way ever since i got it almost 40 years ago. With any undercarriage, speed kills
DMiller
Senior Member
I am heretofore working to kill those very braincells in my own head!!
1693TA
Senior Member
Wife insists I need some brain cells to kill.
I don't have a wife..... or a d8.......steps of life say I need a d8
Ide be glad to send mine to you. She will have you lined out in a week! LOL
Andrew S
Member
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- Oct 22, 2010
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- Location
- Spartanburg, SC
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- Locksmith for a big College, Welder on the side
Your UC may not be as worn as you think. Years ago,, I bought a 14A D8, 1958 model and the track was so worn on it that the place it came from took out 1 link in the track chain on each side so it would be tight enough for use. The UC was no longer available, so they made it work and it did. Your project is a big one.
The worst thing about shortening a chain is that the chain is so stretched that there is no gearing with the sprocket. This not only increases the wear of the sprocket, but also puts heavy load on the drive. Been there, done that.
Yeah , my old D7 was walking out of her tracks but still in pitch measurement by a squeak , took a link out on both sides and stopped her slipping out of the tracks on sidelings . Hard cold economic choice .
If memory serves me correctly, the other consideration is that when you take a link out, it runs on the same sprocket teeth every revolution instead alternating between teeth. For example an even number of sprocket teeth and an odd number of links. Modern crawlers only drive on every second sprocket tooth but wear evenly on every tooth. Somebody correct me if i'm wrong
you wrong, if a sprocket is a hunting tooth design ie, a odd number of teeth then the number of links don't matter because a track chain is a double pitch chain.
A sprocket with even number of teeth only runs on every other gullet ,these are not used any more.
Bob
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