D7E conundrum

[Tones]

The people who make those environmental decisions don't work either. Just say'n.

 

[Nige]

if you don't like a lot of bubbles, try cascade dishwasher detergent.

That's the stuff. Best thing for cleaning out an oil-contaminated cooling system. And don't shirk on how much you put in there, a pound or so at least. Even then you may not get it all at the first go-round. It's also important to rinse every last trace of the detergent out of the system when the cleaning process is completed.

 

[pf/l]

The people who make those environmental decisions don't work either. Just say'n.

tis true lol.

That's the stuff. Best thing for cleaning out an oil-contaminated cooling system. And don't shirk on how much you put in there, a pound or so at least. Even then you may not get it all at the first go-round. It's also important to rinse every last trace of the detergent out of the system when the cleaning process is completed.

When I got the cat the cooler had been replaced and they hadn’t flushed the engine very well so I grabbed a couple
Boxes of calgonite dishwasher soap and one bottle of flettguard cooling system flush. Several freshwater rinses after it seemed to do the trick. Wasn’t nearly as bad that time though.

 

[JLarson]

Commercial blue dawn soap will out clean everything short of just putting purple power in the rad.

 

[pf/l]

Just a bit of a update. Got the oil drained out the other day and pulled the cooler today. Capped the transmission side of the cooler and put some air into it. Can hear it hissing out through the cooler tubes so there’s definitely a hole. Not a huge one but a hole none the less. Was some calcium buildup on a few of the cores and lots of slimy oil .

 

[pf/l]

Took the cooler in today and they soldered shut a couple of tubes said if you can get a new one I’d recommend it though. He said some of the others inside didn’t look good and could very well leak. When I washed it up this morning with the pressure washer I could see where they had soldered a couple of others shot before so this cooler had been around the block a time or two already and not as new as it appeared. I’m hoping I can get a new ctp cooler from a dealer in Florida. No one else is showing stock or has them available here through them. It’s a known brand at least that I’ve had decent luck with so hopefully that holds true.

Got some oil picked out for it today. Brining in 9 pails of the nemco 30 weight oil for me and he has a barrel of 50 weight tdto4 oil to flush it that I can have very cheap as it was ordered as a mistake. Should be about as good of option as I can get I think. If I was running it in the summer only I could almost get by with it I think.

https://klondikelubricants.com/products/50-tdto-4/

https://nemco.ca/wp-content/uploads/PowerTrans-TO-4-Mono-Grade-Oils_rev0.pdf

 

[pf/l]

Has anyone ever dealt with the coolant overflow valve before on here? I’m trying to track down the proper one. There’s several different versions in the parts diagrams depending on serial number. Not all of them show up on the cat site anymore. This appears to be the closest to what I have on there now. There’s no overflow tube just a open hole at the moment. I haven’t had the hood off yet to see if by chance there are threads in there but I don’t believe there are just going off memory and from glancing at it before. Does anyone know what the difference were and if by chance the newer will work in place of the older? The 5s1218 seems to be a pretty common number and still available. I have mixed serial numbers on the cat so it makes ordering a little dofficult at times plus who knows what’s been changed out over the years.

 

[nicky 68a]

Don’t make the mistake I made many years ago flushing out the rad on a 68A D8 after a tranny cooler cracked.
I used my mother’s baking powder rather than baking soda to clean the rad!!!!!!

 

[pf/l]

Don’t make the mistake I made many years ago flushing out the rad on a 68A D8 after a tranny cooler cracked.
I used my mother’s baking powder rather than baking soda to clean the rad!!!!!!

That would make quite a mess alright lol. Not quite the correct way to mix up biscuits lol.

Tore into it some more tonight to see if I could find some more part numbers under the hood/front rad cover. With the tank cover off I was able to see some numbers to narrow things down a bit. Was certain when I had the overflow valve off years ago that the valve was missing the way I remembered it. I was wrong though. Only things actually missing are the overflow pipe, the strainer and a 1/8” npt plug. That’s why the tank leaked when you would go up a steep hill or bounce it around the wrong way. Part numbers do differ from the proper diagram for the tank but everything seems to fit together regardless.

 

[56wrench]

I doesn't need an overflow pipe if that hole is above the hood. That way you can see if it overflows and that lets you know if its not happy. The water pressure gauge is also a good indicator. If your parts book doesn't show a tube, then you don't need it

 

[Bluox]

That valve you have apart is a pressure regulator like the cap on your car, the hole in it don't have a tube in it.
That line in the picture should go to the radiator pressure gauge on the dash if you have one.
Part book show different set ups by serial numbers so you need to look at the right picture for your number.
Bob

 

[pf/l]

See the problem I’m running into is this rad appears to have been pieced together from different machines. The regulating valve is from a later serial number as far as I can tell and the cover and plate as well. I know the rad was replaced with a used one when I got the machine but of course I have no idea what serial number machine it came off of. Getting a little frustrating I must admit for such a simple little part. I don’t like piecing things back together and try to leave things in better shape when I take something apart. It doesn’t help when the old numbers seem to be now be nla for the tank that is on the cat. You can see in the pictures where the hole that feeds pressure to the water pressure gauge is blocked off by the cover when it’s installed. The only way I can see to get pressure from the tank is to plumb in a new line to the hole that is supposed to be plugged and run it back to the water pressure gauge. I promise I’m not as stupid in real life but this stupid little valve has my head spinning a bit going back and forth between parts books and trying to match up what might work with what’s there. Serial number of the cat for anyone who’s interested is 48A 5134. The motor is a later serial number so it’s a high hp.

 

[pf/l]

first picture matches up with the part numbers I have on the cat except for the tank.

Second picture (48a2611)is the tank and what should be on there according to the parts books. Neither one actually matches up to my serial numbers.

 

[Bluox]

The hole in the cap is only to vent pressure when the valve opens at 15 # or what ever normally it would have no pressers on it.
Bob

 

[56wrench]

You may or may not have a high horse engine depending on if only the block has been changed during a previous rebuild. Check the turbo and air cleaner arrangements to see if they match a high horse application. On those old machines a lot of parts may have been changed over its life. As far as i know you can still have a low horse engine with a high horse turbo and air cleaner. Maybe someone else will chime in

 

[pf/l]

Yes I understand that part Bob. The valve opens under pressure and vents out the top of the cap. The confusing part with the mixed up parts is this plate actually covers up the hole where you suggested the water pressure gauge would tie into it. Some of the diagrams do now show this extra plate installed onto it. Without it there though there’s nothing for the valve to seat up against. I’m not sure if the strainer is large enough inside that the valve would seal on it if it were there or not. Earlier versions do list a different valve but I haven’t been able to get ahold of cat or cross the number online to anything that’s available. The 5s1218 seems to be very common yet. That’s what’s on there now. The valve in the other parts diagram is 9m6369 which doesn’t come up under cats site anymore. They’re supposed to call me back but so far haven’t heard anything. Parts guys were busy when I called before.

 

[pf/l]

You may or may not have a high horse engine depending on if only the block has been changed during a previous rebuild. Check the turbo and air cleaner arrangements to see if they match a high horse application. On those old machines a lot of parts may have been changed over its life. As far as i know you can still have a low horse engine with a high horse turbo and air cleaner. Maybe someone else will chime in

To the best of my knowledge it’s equipped as a high horse. I put a new turbo and manifold on 3-4 years ago. Heads were replaced when the seller sold it to me. Intake is set up as a high horse. This is about the only side shot I have on my phone at the moment.

 

[Bluox]

With the plate you have the 1/4 hole gets a cork.
the 1/8 hole next to the hose should be the gauge line.
Bob

 

[emmett518]

Commercial blue dawn soap will out clean everything short of just putting purple power in the rad.

How about that Faberoso stuff? That gets off third world dirt. It punks out Mr. Kleen like he’s a bitch.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YG3PM14P7Gw

 

[pf/l]

With the plate you have the 1/4 hole gets a cork.
the 1/8 hole next to the hose should be the gauge line.
Bob

Thanks Bob that’s kind of along the lines of what I was thinking before. Hopefully finish off my parts list tonight so I can get something in the works for shipping. No one in Canada has any coolers in stock so I have to wait either way. Little scared of getting stuck with a heavy customs bill if I ship through a courier but at this point I’d just like to have this little project done and out of my hair. Sure is a lot simpler when you can just go into the store and say I have this machine I need this part and walk out with it or have it in a day or two. Gotten spoilt with the other stuff we have I guess aside from our old Clark skidder everything is pretty easy to get parts for or at least it was before Covid.