D6T Dozing Technique

[Mark S]

My question is to the most efficient pushing technique.

I’m aware of slot dozing and I utilize it but I am more interested in the amount of spoil that I can push.

I am currently pushing to the point of stall. Meaning I can hear and feel the stall coming and I push on that edge. Some call it “boiling over”. I’m trying to push as much as possible, but is that the best technique? Am I wearing the undercarriage quicker?

should I get the blade full and let the motor get to full speed again?

The motor idles around 2050 rpm and when I’m pushing almost to stall it’s at 1800 rpm.

 

[John C.]

Are you pushing in second or first? The most efficient push is with the torque converter temperature in the upper range of the green on the gauge and the tracks still moving in a speed range where you can still handle the grade. That's also usually the most efficient fuel burn.

 

[Mark S]

Always 1st gear.

the temp is a little under the top tick mark on the gauge.

I’m asking if the amount I’m pushing because I’ve had to tighten the track twice in the last few weeks to spec.

if I’m pushing in sand, should the tracks stay in spec, loose or tight?

 

[CM1995]

What type of material are you pushing and in what type of ground conditions for starters?

The variables are exponential.

 

[Mark S]

Sand. Ground is sand too. As I push, I leave a coating of sand for the next strip of pond i am digging. I might say it’s wet sand, but at the very least semi-wet.

there’s 6” of top soil I’m removing but then sand. It’s a wet type sand, I’m digging a pond and then pushing the spoils.

 

[John C.]

You should run the tracks loose when running in sand. It allows the sand to drop off over the top. Running tight tracks in sand will wear them out exponentially faster.

 

[Mark S]

Thanks for the reply.

today the tracks were loose, 3.5” sag and the specs call for 2.2” sag. When I would reverse from a slot and turn to start a new slot, I would hear a slip or bang in the right track from time to time. Almost like they were too loose. Which is why I tighten them back into spec.

back to my first question, should I be pushing almost to stall with sand or back off some to keep the Rpm’s up?

 

[John C.]

As long as you don't overheat the engine and transmission and can afford the fuel burn, it won't hurt anything.

 

[Tinkerer]

When pushing sand, slot dozing is the only way to get any production. IMHO.
Have you tried taking a lighter cut and running in second gear ?
Pushing in first gear with the sand "boiling over the blade" will definitely load the tracks up. The amount of wear on the grouser bars will make huge difference in the production per push.
Sand and or snow will load up tracks and make them so tight that I have heard then pop like gunfire.

 

[Nige]

back to my first question, should I be pushing almost to stall with sand or back off some to keep the Rpm’s up?

IMHO whatever RPM your engine generates maximum torque at is the RPM that you should be pushing at, give or take.

 

[Welder Dave]

I'd take Tinkerer's advice. He's run dozers for decades on large projects. I'm no dozer expert but it would seem to me that sand would more likely cause the tracks to "dig in" when trying to push too much and that would rob pushing power. A firmer base material would let you boil the blade more.