D6H Hard nose loose

[duchek]

I decided to let one of our local dirt contractors do it. They run a fair size fleet of dirt equipment and during the winter they do the odd job in their shop to keep their guys busy. Plus they are only charging $90 an hour also so they are quite reasonable. They figured about 15 hours to do all four pins. I also have an oil leak somewhere up there to so hopefully they can fix that at the same time when it is opened up. We were going to do it ourselves but we got our shop full of other things.

 

[Nige]

Here's a stupid question. Why is the hardnose pinned on like that anyway? Why is it not part of the frame? Welded or cast solid. I could see pinning it on if you weren't going to hoist the blade with it.

Try removing the engine with the hard nose in place and let me know how you get on.......,.

 

[Mink]

StanRus, please check your pm.

 

[John C.]

They were bolted on the D8 and D9 days. Seems like when they went to the high drives they went to pins. I suppose the pins are more secure over a long time than the bolts and clamp fits.

 

[StanRUS]

They were bolted on the D8 and D9 days. Seems like when they went to the high drives they went to pins. I suppose the pins are more secure over a long time than the bolts and clamp fits.

Pinned Tilting Hardnose made servicing the radiator assembly, fan drive and engine-torque divider R&I easier...The PINS and BORES wear from the get-go, wear caused by fretting damage due to the necessary assembly clearances. Continuous 3rd gear reverse operation (like Cushion Dozer) shortens the service life.

When the pins-bores get really loose, the upper coolant hoses-pipes start yanking off of the thermostat housings! Removing the radiator cap requires tilting upwards towards the rear of the machine to remove!

 

[John C.]

I've seen a couple of 8s be loose enough to tear up the fan guards and make swirl marks on the radiator fins.

 

[duchek]

Well my friend called me to come look at my cat today as they got it tore apart. The news wasn't good. The bottom left hand corner of the frame is broke right off where the pin goes through.

 

[duchek]

 

[RayF]

Is that the lug on the chassis? Its easy enough to replace but the location of the bore is critical. You can get the dimensions off SIS.

 

[duchek]

Yes, it's broke off the main frame.

 

[RayF]

As a Line Borer I shouldn't recommend it but if it was mine I would make up a new lug with a bushing in it.Have it attached to the nose with the pin through it. Position the nose correctly and tack the lug to the chassis. Lift off the nose and weld it

 

[StanRUS]

Looks like 3 different benchmarks at the break, starting at the crankcase guard bolt lug.

 

[duchek]

Thought my cat would be ready to start bending trees over again today. Checked in on it. Apparently
there are no bushings in Canada, they are coming from Waco Texas.

 

[DMiller]

Hate to say it but the design reminds me of my 40+ year old Allis and how their designers did the hard nose. Mine has two flare tapered bolts at the front pin position, then has a rubber bushing supported nut/bolt assembly at the rear position. As time wore on the front bolt would wear or the tapered hole would wear and then become loose while of course the nut had frozen to the bolt then the rear rubber mount would tear away and the entire hard nose would wiggle and sway bumping radiator fan shroud and even the loader lift arms. The HD11, 16, even the early 21's were all quite similar.

 

[Steve4440]

I torched my old ones out and tried to drive the new ones in. Got it part way in and it started pushing the bushings out. Not sure what to do. I tried to use a bolt to squeeze it back in with no luck. I don’t want to torch my new pin.

 

[DMiller]

Get the new pin back out, inspect the bore and bushing as may be damaged, don't destroy what you started even as may need to buy another pin.

 

[Nige]

I torched my old ones out and tried to drive the new ones in. Got it part way in and it started pushing the bushings out. Not sure what to do. I tried to use a bolt to squeeze it back in with no luck. I don’t want to torch my new pin.

Is this on the LAY-prefix D6T you posted about before.?
As the Chinaman would say - Sum Ting Wong. Those pins should almost push in by hand provided everything is clean and lined up correctly, a light hammer tap at the very most. Are you using OEM or aftermarket pins/bushes.?
EDIT: You did remove the old bushes and replaced them with new I hope.?

 

[tctractors]

On the D6R the Nose Cone pins are pulled out towards the track, they have a thread inside to locate a pulling bolt that is UNC on the R Series and Metric on the T Series, from the inside they have a long bolt and washer that keeps them in place that will need to be removed, if the D6 is an LGP Tractor just removing a few plates will allow you enough room to easily work, if it is a standard gauge Tractor splitting the track groups is the best method I find, a cylinder and sometimes an amount of heat is needed to remove them and possibly a few well placed thumps from a good sized 14 lb hammer, to refit just buff out the rust and apply copper slip and the pins will push home easy, the job is not to bad to tackle with the more you do the easier they get, I have never had to cut a pin out on a nose cone and they have been about from the mid 80's so I would have done lots. tctractors