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D5k2 flashing red at idle
Nige
Senior Member
It might be interesting to see what happens to the system voltage around the time the warning comes on.
Just a thought. If you bought a manual on CD or downloaded a pdf copy you could have it printed and therefore have both paper & electronic versions of the document for one price.
Just a thought. If you bought a manual on CD or downloaded a pdf copy you could have it printed and therefore have both paper & electronic versions of the document for one price.
Nige
Senior Member
Well that put the kybosh on the idea it was dodgy system voltage.
I'm sorry I have no more ideas on what it might be.
I'm sorry I have no more ideas on what it might be.
Probably yes but I wouldn’t rule a voltage issue out yet . Another circuit that supplied voltage to the ECM could have a fault resulting in low voltage in that use. I really wish I could post a case study I wrote up about a machine I had. It had seemingly good system voltage but a secondary power supply circuit to the ECM was faulty due to a failed relay. In my case on four fuses that the relay controlled circuits on had 8v when 24V was supposed to be there. High resistance in the relay dropped the voltage.
Nige
Senior Member
The two main power relay coils are pulled in by power from the ECM from CONN J2
Off the top of my head I can't see anywhere where a main power relay feeds to the ECM. One relay supplies power to one of the fuse box bus bars, the other one supplies the other.
As far as I can see the machine ECM power supply (4 different pins on CONN J1) all comes from fuse #1 which is direct from Batt+ not via a relay.
Off the top of my head I can't see anywhere where a main power relay feeds to the ECM. One relay supplies power to one of the fuse box bus bars, the other one supplies the other.
As far as I can see the machine ECM power supply (4 different pins on CONN J1) all comes from fuse #1 which is direct from Batt+ not via a relay.
Nige
Senior Member
Here's a thought. Corrosion/condensation/contamination on the #1 fuse holder..?
Pull the fuse out and give both it and the holder a good clean might be an idea. At least then you've eliminated another possibility.
Pull the fuse out and give both it and the holder a good clean might be an idea. At least then you've eliminated another possibility.
A great check especially if this happens to be an open cab machine (Yes Cat still builds them!!!)
You know, it is an open cab and that top fuse box had water and corrosion all in it. I noticed after I bought it of course. I cleaned it up and replaced bad fuses. But I didn’t spend a lot of time on it. What’s the best way to clean that out good? That was 6 months ago.
there is a company called innovative products of America they make all kinds of corrosion cleaner tools for different terminals download their catalog and look at it.
Make sure you disconnect the batteries before doing the work as the fuse panel has hot wires from the battery going to it. Clean those ring terminals well too. I’d consider pricing a replacement fuse panel also. I would certainly investigate replacement if I was hired to be your mechanic. Corrosion is a common fault source.
The information of the fuse box being corroded and water filled is an important clue that might explain some of your issues.
So I have been running all day. Decided to stop and check the part number for a new fuse box. I’d like to replace it but how do the wires come out of/go back in the back of it? Also, the F10 fuse burnt my thumb it’s so hot. That normal?? Don’t seem like it
Nige
Senior Member
No fuse should be hot no matter how long the machine is working. As the Chinaman would say “Sum Ting Wong”.
Lol kinda figured that. Maybe it’s just the box?? Corrosion has kind of shown back up on that box and on fuses since I cleaned it last.
To change out the box, do I have to just cut the wires and they push into the new box or what?
To change out the box, do I have to just cut the wires and they push into the new box or what?
heymccall
Senior Member
Looks modular, ie, all harness plugs behind.
mks
Well-Known Member
For what it is worth.
Electricians have a nice set of paired numbered labels to use when changing out circuit breaker boxes. I’m sure something similar could be improvised.
Electricians have a nice set of paired numbered labels to use when changing out circuit breaker boxes. I’m sure something similar could be improvised.
Nige
Senior Member
A smart phone with a camera is your friend.
The attached Service Magazine is interesting. There is an upgraded fuse block...........
The attached Service Magazine is interesting. There is an upgraded fuse block...........
A hot fuse you say? AH-HA another important clue!!! a fuse is hot it means high resistance is causing it to heat up. What causes that resistance is what you need to find. Whether that’s corrosion or a poor connection or damaged wiring...This fuse panel bears much more investigating. There are modular blocks that plug into the back of the fuse panel mark photo, many photos, and transfer carefully. They just have release tabs don’t cut the wire work it with a pocket screwdriver and carefully
I bet changing this fuse panel and making sure your plugs that plug into it are all clean and in good condition will solve your issue
I bet changing this fuse panel and making sure your plugs that plug into it are all clean and in good condition will solve your issue
For that rework procedure I’d have to see what crimping is required this isn’t a “commonly available parts store” type crimping tool
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