D5k no crank

[Jakes dozer]

Recently rebuilt the engine in my D5k YYY01385 serial number. We had it running for about 10 minutes and it shut down and will not crank again. Fault codes show high engine temp and low oil pressure and a speed sensor fault. Neither of which are accurate as I watched the oil pressure and it stayed around 50-60. The temp never got up to half way and the infrared heat gun showed around 175-190 degrees. We went ahead and changed all the fuel lines from the filters to pump. Injectors are new and high pressure pump has been changed recently also. UPS dropped the pump so the sensor on top of the pump was changed also. Active fault codes are e360-1 e360-2 e360-3
E361-1 e361-2 e361-3 2688-08 also hand primer bulb has been changed. Doesn’t stay pressured up once you pump on it a few times. It gets hard and then bleeds off and is fairly easy to pump.

Any help is much appreciated. This has me scratching my head. I’ve got a lot
Of money tied up in this dozer and need to get it back on a job asap. It has been down for about 2 years.

 

[B&B]

Recently rebuilt the engine in my D5k YYY01385 serial number. We had it running for about 10 minutes and it shut down and will not crank again. Fault codes show high engine temp and low oil pressure and a speed sensor fault. Neither of which are accurate as I watched the oil pressure and it stayed around 50-60. The temp never got up to half way and the infrared heat gun showed around 175-190 degrees. We went ahead and changed all the fuel lines from the filters to pump. Injectors are new and high pressure pump has been changed recently also. UPS dropped the pump so the sensor on top of the pump was changed also. Active fault codes are e360-1 e360-2 e360-3
E361-1 e361-2 e361-3 2688-08 also hand primer bulb has been changed. Doesn’t stay pressured up once you pump on it a few times. It gets hard and then bleeds off and is fairly easy to pump.

Any help is much appreciated. This has me scratching my head. I’ve got a lot
Of money tied up in this dozer and need to get it back on a job asap. It has been down for about 2 years.

Simple things first, check it's in neutral or equivalent gear to crank, make sure any e stops aren't pressed. Next use a test light and see if the solenoid is getting power.

 

[Deimos]

Recently rebuilt the engine in my D5k YYY01385 serial number. We had it running for about 10 minutes and it shut down and will not crank again. Fault codes show high engine temp and low oil pressure and a speed sensor fault. Neither of which are accurate as I watched the oil pressure and it stayed around 50-60. The temp never got up to half way and the infrared heat gun showed around 175-190 degrees. We went ahead and changed all the fuel lines from the filters to pump. Injectors are new and high pressure pump has been changed recently also. UPS dropped the pump so the sensor on top of the pump was changed also. Active fault codes are e360-1 e360-2 e360-3
E361-1 e361-2 e361-3 2688-08 also hand primer bulb has been changed. Doesn’t stay pressured up once you pump on it a few times. It gets hard and then bleeds off and is fairly easy to pump.

Any help is much appreciated. This has me scratching my head. I’ve got a lot
Of money tied up in this dozer and need to get it back on a job asap. It has been down for about 2 years.

First check the fuse in the picture.
And try to start the engine with ether.

 

[Jakes dozer]

I have checked the fused and gave it a snort of ether. It will run on ether until you quit giving it to it. Acts like it isn’t fueling.

 

[Nige]

Unless I am misunderstanding you don't have a "no crank" situation, rather you have a "crank, no start". Please confirm that.

Fault codes show high engine temp and low oil pressure and a speed sensor fault. Neither of which are accurate

That's as maybe but according to the electronics they SEE those two parameters as being out of range, therefore they might be saying "no way Jose". I'm not sure about inhiibiting engine starting though.

hand primer bulb has been changed. Doesn’t stay pressured up once you pump on it a few times. It gets hard and then bleeds off and is fairly easy to pump.

Try a simple trick. Clamp the fuel return line with a set of vise grips. Try pumping the primer bulb again and see what happens. Actually try cranking the engine with the vice grips still on there and see if it will start, or even put any sort of smoke out of the chimney.

Injectors are new and high pressure pump has been changed recently also.

Did you fit a new relief valve (Item #1) to the fuel rail.?
My personal experience with crank, no start symptoms with C4.4 engines was basically (provided the fuel rail pressure sensor checked out OK) you changed three parts in order of cost - 1) rail relief valve, 2) injectors, & 3) HP fuel pump. You seem to have done it the opposite way round.

Were the replacement injectors & HP pump Cat OEM or A N Other.?

The use of ET to see what pressure is in the rail when cranking would be useful. The problem might be something as basic as a defective fuel rail pressure sensor #31. It would also allow you to monitor the oil pressure and coolant temperature values that the engine ECM is seeing.

 

[Jakes dozer]

You are correct about the crank no start, I worded that wrong. We have not changed the relief valve but have changed the injectors and pump. All the plastic quick connect fuel lines have been changed also.

 

[Nige]

Back to my comments regarding the use of ET.

Say for example that for some reason the fuel rail pressure sensor was not putting out a genuine signal. If the pressure per that sensor did not rise high enough the ECM would not give the command to fire the injectors but there would be no Codes because as far as the electronics are concerned there would be no fault. This situation would be spotted immediately if ET was hooked up to the machine.

 

[Jakes dozer]

I have a man coming Monday or Tuesday to hook the laptop up and see what it says. We’re tired of throwing parts at it.

 

[Nige]

I have a man coming Monday or Tuesday to hook the laptop up and see what it says.

We'll be interested to hear the results........

We’re tired of throwing parts at it.

A little bit of data-driven diagnostics at the start could have potentially saved you a load of coin, and frustration.

 

[Jakes dozer]

We have a friend that has this computer that will check out some codes for a case of beer so I have been using him when I can. So we’re going to pay the professional to really tell us. Everything we have swapped out has needing changing. It’s just one thing after another, I guess from sitting for so long.

 

[Deimos]

I forgot to mention that you replaced the high-pressure pump.
Did you install the pump according to the instructions? Did you set the first cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke using pins on the front group of gears? Was the pump that you installed in the factory packaging, and was the new pump shaft blocked? All of these questions need answers to understand what is wrong with the engine.

From personal experience, if the pump is accidentally installed one tooth off, it is impossible to start it. And even if the new pump is installed as required according to the instructions, it takes a very long time to start it using ether. Perhaps this is due to air in the high-pressure fuel lines.

 

[Jakes dozer]

Yes the pump is installed correctly according to cat instructions.

 

[Deimos]

Ok, then you need to connect CAT ET in any case. When cranking the starter, watch the parameters Desire Fuel Rail Pressure and Fuel Rail Pressure, if these parameters are not equal, the engine will not start. You also need to pay attention to the low fuel pressure parameter, and to active errors.

 

[Jakes dozer]

Yes sir. Thank you for your input. I’ll be posting our findings when we figure it out. This has been an unpleasant repair.