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D4 7u final drive removal

toby lindquist

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Oregon
Hi I was wondering if there was a old cat guru that would know how hard it would be to pull the final on an old d4, also what other old d4 series would have the same final to use in it ???? Thanks all help is appreciated
 

Old Magnet

Senior Member
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
2,011
Location
Corralitos, California
Requires hydraulic press equipment to disassemble and re-assemble. Suggest unbolting the entire final drive assembly and take it to a shop for press work.
The same final drive gear 9F5224 is used on 6U6655 to 12,682, 7U12940 to 43,645 and the 955 loader 12A1 to 7360.
The same final drive pinion 8H2300 is used on 6U6655-up, 7U 13,940-up and the 955 loader 12A7361-up.
 

epirbalex

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
554
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
Hi I was wondering if there was a old cat guru that would know how hard it would be to pull the final on an old d4, also what other old d4 series would have the same final to use in it ???? Thanks all help is appreciated
I had to get the rear of the dozer up in the air to clear it to disassemble it . The splines are bevel cut so all the puller needs to do is crack it , no drawing of the sprocket . Before you ask someone to bring their puller out to you , give the sprocket a bloody great belt with a heavy hammer . Just the once , this of course after removing the lock nut , big bugger 2and 7/8 ??? got the tee shirt and the socket .Might be loose enough . You won't need the puller to replace the sprocket but you will need to tighten the nut something terrible , 10 stone on a six foot pipe . Clean the spline , both bits really well before putting them back together , I can't stress enough that reassemble needs to be right , unlike Inters Cats stay fixed if fixed right of that age . You have a really "modern one" at 34000 plus .
 

toby lindquist

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Oregon
Wow thanks for all the info, also will I need to remove the whole carriage on the side of the cat that I pull the final,
It looks as though I would need to?
 

toby lindquist

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Oregon
Also one more thing, anybody might now where I can acquire a final and bill gear in Oregon and maybe the seal ?
 

epirbalex

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
554
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
Wow thanks for all the info, also will I need to remove the whole carriage on the side of the cat that I pull the final,
It looks as though I would need to?
Well , no . Having the track frame slid forward is more than whats needed . That would more than likely need the centre spring removed or at least slid to the other side to allow the frame to roll along the laid out tracks , this all after removing the blade . Jacking up the back allowing the crook track frame to stay on the ground is the easy way . There are about four bolts attaching the trackframe to be removed either side of the final drive outside cap . Float your blade hydraulics before trying to jack it , large log offcuts need to be stacked . You might want to do the steering clutch part of the job before you go up on the jacks if the little cog at the top is being replaced . It has a big nut on the inside . I think it can be got at without taking out the bevel gear shaft as the steering clutch slides after removing more gear , its no small job you are taking on . Be real careful with the seals , bits no matter what as they could be slow to replace .
 

toby lindquist

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Oregon
Ok, so If don't replace that cog gear then I don't have to pull the steering clutch? Hopefully only going
To replace the bull gear and final and the seal for the final.
 

old-iron-habit

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
4,233
Location
Moose Lake, MN
Occupation
Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
There are horror stories often about sprockets installed and tightened without a proper press and ended up getting ruined when they come loose. Do not be disappointed when you experience difficulties down the road if you don't believe Old Magnets advice. That was very sound advice. Your results may be different. Even with a proper puller keep the nut part way on until it pops.
 

epirbalex

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
554
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
Here is the victim in question
another 600 kg's to jack up with the winch , won't matter much . What ever you do to tighten the sprocket it will need to be tight . I have done it my way and it worked doing 1800 hrs of work , some in rock day after day . It was impressed upon me to tighten it well . If you are going to spend big money on labour it might pay to check the pinion bearings as done once will have it done for the life left in the machine . Being a "late" model 7u it will have a 2 piece lid over the bevel gear , transmission and clutch , much easier to work with .
 

toby lindquist

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Oregon
Wow thanks for all info, I took some time away from work and the cat to visit family, but when I get back I will get it lowboyed to our shop and get the blade and track off and jacked up into the air. For removal of the final
 

epirbalex

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
554
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
Epirbalex how were you able to get the sprocket right enough, did you use a press or ??
do you mean tight enough ? . I cleaned both splines spotless , fitted then tightened the nut , no press , swung on a bar fitted with pipe . Total length 6 foot . Bar I made from an axel squared and bent to fit inch drive . Its the bar that's the weak bit in the job . I put most of my weight on it close to the end . The fella who pulled my sprocket told me I needed 10 stone at 6 ' , 140 lbs at 6' is a lot of torque . It must be possible to work out the torque and use a torque multiplier , less chance of getting hurt .If you have a choice of using a proper press that not going to be over expensive use it . My job was to see why the inside seal was leaking , turned out it was the inside bearing was chopping out . The one I bought was offered with a choice of two outer shells , one a plain sided taper shell , the other had a strong lip on it . Hopefully Caterpillar had changed how that bearing sits by the time it got to you serial number as it was expensive . If you replace it and have a choice of bearing types (makers} checking the angle of the taper of the existing one against any new one as its best to keep it the same .
 

toby lindquist

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Oregon
Ok I see, yeah I have a local car dealership that said they would press it on, the reason I'm tearing it apart is because the track will only go about 4 feet distance before it stops, fairly certain the final is missing a gear or two....
 

epirbalex

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
554
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
Ok I see, yeah I have a local car dealership that said they would press it on, the reason I'm tearing it apart is because the track will only go about 4 feet distance before it stops, fairly certain the final is missing a gear or two....
Does the other side drive alright ? . There is an inspection plate on the bottom inside where you can see the bull gear , the missing teeth will be sitting there somewhere . Could be a while before you have to worry about refitting .
 

toby lindquist

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Oregon
Yeah the one side is fine but the other only turns a few feet and goes the other direction and stops, how big is the inspection plate ?
 
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