D3G XL trans problem

[onemoparnut]

I removed the cps sensor and the end was covered in metal shavings. I cleaned it and reinstalled it till it touched the flywheel and backed it out 1/2 turn and tightened the lock nut. The machine still acts the same way it did before. I still feel like it has something to do with the decel pedal. Seems like if it is in just the right position that the hydro will work properly. Then if you move the decel pedal slightly the hydro will slow down even though the engine rpm went up. Looks like the boss either has to buy me the cat et software or let cat come fix it.

 

[Nige]

ET software & hardware will be out of your league, believe me ....... It looks like the only option is to get a dealer service guy out to calibrate the decel pedal sensor. While he's there have him calibrate all the sensors that can be calibrated. Have you lubricated the pedal mechanism as suggested a few posts back..?

 

[onemoparnut]

Why would you say the et programs are out of my league. I have run a lot of diagnostic equipment on cars and smaller trucks plenty. Is the cat program much different? I did lube the little linkage between the decel pedal and the sensor.

 

[Nige]

My apologies, I was referring to price & value for money (vs a technician visit) if you only have a single machine that it can be used on. The ET Communications Adpater (hardware) that is required to connect a PC to the machine via the Diagnostic Port retails at around $1500-$2000 depending on which type you purchase. To buy the ET software plus a 12-month licence so that it can be used on a single PC is about the same. If you only have 1 or 2 machines then $3000-4000 for your first year of using the ET diagnostic tool makes it pretty expensive. You can get quite a few service visits from a dealer guy for that type of money.

 

[d9gdon]

Lee, now what about the speed sensors on the final drives? One of mine started leaking under warranty. I was talking to the tech when he replaced it and said sometimes they go out and make the machine do funny stuff. I think he said they had to calibrate them to make the machine track straight. I think you have to take the rear belly pan off to access them, but I don't remember them being very hard to get to. Maybe just a little access plate at the rear?

As far as getting the Cat dealer to repair it, take it to their shop. Their travel and service call rates should be against the law. I am only being serious...

 

[onemoparnut]

Well I have finally had some time to devote to this machine again. I still feel that the problem is in the decel pedal sensor but i cannot prove it. I took the machine to cat and showed the mechanic what it was doing. Then they call a few days later and say there is nothing wrong with the machine we can come pick it up. I went there and showed another mechanic what it is doing and he said he has never seen one do that. They said there are no codes in the computer so they don't know what to fix. They said the only thing they can do is start throwing parts at it but that it will get expensive. Is there any cat tech service that I can call and get them to tell my cat dealer what to do? The service manager was trying to tell me that if it was a sensor that it would show a code because they done just lose calibration they are either good or bad. I know they don't really know what they are doing and in the end it is gonna cost me money for them to learn on my machine.

 

[Nige]

Ask the dealer Service Mananger to have his Technical Communicator submit a request in the Caterpillar DSN system describing the problem symptoms and listing everything that has been done to the machine so far (like cleaning/adjusting the sensor for example). This system is a storehouse of information from all over the world, cross your fingers that someone else somewhere in the world has had the same problem at sometime and called for help. Whatever the solution to the problem was the info regarding the fix will be in the DSN Database.

I just got a fix today on an Cat 854K from DSN and the answer to my question came back in less than 4 hours because another machine somewhere had done the same thing and the fix was there in DSN. All we had to do was apply it.

 

[Multiracer]

Pull the sensor one more time to check for metal fragments (it only takes a jit to throw this off) and peek in at the hall effect rotor. Make sure it is not coated with gunk, mud or rust.
Good luck.
Ron

 

[jake980]

I worked on a D4G half a year ago, same simptoms and problems. Went through all the calibrations, tests and so on. Nothing fixed it. I ended up swapping the decel pedal sensor with one I had it my toolbox, and it solved the problem. Not saying its going to solve yours but it may be worth a shot.

 

[onemoparnut]

I can not do any more work to it now because it is at the cat dealer now. I will let you guys know how I make out with it if I can ever get them to call me back. I have left messages and they dont return phone calls they were supposed to call me monday with what they found but that didnt happen. Thanks for all the help.

 

[onemoparnut]

Thank you all for the help cat finally fixed it and I picked it up yesterday and it seems to be working fine now. They said the recalibrated everything and now it works as it should. They would not tell me what specifically was out of calibration but either way it is working now.

 

[Tuffmachinery]

Hey nige having same problem would like procedure for brake limit switch

 

[McQueen]

I'm having what seems like the same problem with a D3G I just bought. Cleaned the flywheel sensor today and no change. 06 model with 3700hr s/n BYR01487
Any thoughts?

 

[Nige]

Try pulling the Diagnostic Codes on it. See post #6 on page 1 for the "how to".
Report back what you find.

 

[McQueen]

Will do, Thanks

 

[McQueen]

124
241
244
246
251
252
254
261

Here are the codes that showed up. Is there any codes #124? The only one that seemed odd but that is what I thought it showed.

 

[McQueen]

After reading through this post again, I see where I need to clear all of the code I can. I will clear out what I can in the morning. And post what I find. Do I need to run it after I clear the codes or just start it up? To see what comes back.

 

[Nige]

There are two types of Code, Active & Logged. Active is there right now, Logged was there once but is not there now.
Logged Codes you can clear, Active ones you cannot clear until you fix them (which turns them into Logged).
You should not need to start up or run the machine after clearing the Logged Codes, simply turn the key on. Then re-check the remaining codes that are showing and ensure that they are all Active.
You may need to re-check the 241 because it is not on the Code List.......
Everything else that you have corresponds to the drive system one way or another.

 

[McQueen]

Ok cleared out the codes, and now all I get is the 222 code. Meaning no active codes right? Is it necessary to place the plug back on the test point to check for more codes?

 

[Nige]

No. The fact that you have 222 indicates that there are no Codes in the Monitor.
If you want to double check you can refit the Harness Code Plug, turn off the Master Switch for a few minutes, then power up the machine and re-check. I would be surprised if anything changed TBH.

In your first post you said you'd just bought the tractor. Are you familiar with all the controls, especially the variable speed controls.? Do you have an Operation and Maintenance Manual for it.?
You can download an O&M Manual from Cat for less than $50.