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D3B Clutch and cylinder rebuild
- Thread starter AllDodge
- Start date
Andy called a few days ago and said (in short) there is nothing wrong with the clutches. Will be sending them back later. So now its either the torque converter (TC) or transmission.
I'm thinking TC because there has been no metal found in filters/screens, and pressures are good. There was also next to no heat increase during a stall test
Would really like to figure this out and not just keep taking things apart
I'm thinking TC because there has been no metal found in filters/screens, and pressures are good. There was also next to no heat increase during a stall test
Would really like to figure this out and not just keep taking things apart
wosama931b
Senior Member
wosama931b
Senior Member
That is a good deal of work , one thing is to get the band a just ed to be right . I did not when I reinstalled mine , the ajustment bolt on the new brake was not enough , wating for spring to do a better job , and go tight it up, have fun .
Started back on the reinstall and then remembered 2 bolts where snapped off on the left side hydraulic pistons. Welded a washer and nut as done before which didn't work this time. Couldn't get enough heat transfer I think. So took a grinder and cleaned up my mess, then drilled the bolts thru.
Unable to find my easy outs so need to get some more.
Worst comes to worst I can drill the hole thing out and use a longer bolt and nut.
Unable to find my easy outs so need to get some more.
Worst comes to worst I can drill the hole thing out and use a longer bolt and nut.
Got the studs out and retapped the holes
Have installed the clutches but just a few bolts on each end except one. Trying to figure out how to release the clutch so it can be turned to align the bolts holes. Tried to use a port-a-power but its to long.
Will post pics later
Have installed the clutches but just a few bolts on each end except one. Trying to figure out how to release the clutch so it can be turned to align the bolts holes. Tried to use a port-a-power but its to long.
Will post pics later
Need an idea of how to get the second clutch bolts installed
Need to rotate the sprocket on one side only to align bolt holes, or work clutch (20 ton maybe) so inner/outer will move. My 3 ton forklift won't lift one side using the rops. Could try the 416 but it may not do it either.
Looking for ideas
Need to rotate the sprocket on one side only to align bolt holes, or work clutch (20 ton maybe) so inner/outer will move. My 3 ton forklift won't lift one side using the rops. Could try the 416 but it may not do it either.
Looking for ideas
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Not sure what you mean by second clutch bolts? When I did the steering clutches on mine everything turned rather easily, didn't need anything special. It was a few years ago but seems we got all the outer bolts in first and then turned the whole thing to get the inner bolts. Trans. in neutral everything should free wheel. Had the machine blocked up. I can't recall exactly but I think the 2nd side required turning both sides once the 1st bolt was in. I think we lined all the holes up before putting the bolts in and then turned everything to get the bolts on top so they could be tightened.
I would put a block in front of the right track then put the jack on the back of the left track and jack till two bolt holes line up, put the bolts in then back off jack remove block and continue to jack left track till you get all the bolts in.
good luck
Bob
The right side is attached on both sides, so the trans cannot be turned. The track could be turned on left side if its raised off the ground. It would be easy to move with it blocked up
Blocking might work if I installed the inner first and not the outer (outer holes move faster, larger diameter), but all the strain will be on one bolt when block is removed.
Guess I'm going to have to raise the left side. I'm on gravel and the grousers are about 2 inches high and track will droop. I know my 955 could lift and push the rops enough to tilt it, but takes more to move it. Think I'll see if the 416 can do it
Blocking might work if I installed the inner first and not the outer (outer holes move faster, larger diameter), but all the strain will be on one bolt when block is removed.
Guess I'm going to have to raise the left side. I'm on gravel and the grousers are about 2 inches high and track will droop. I know my 955 could lift and push the rops enough to tilt it, but takes more to move it. Think I'll see if the 416 can do it
Took the most time to get the BH in position, gave it a slight nudge, then about 10 minutes and set it back down. If it didn't start raining I would have got all the bolts in. Just wait for another dry day, but will be a bit colder
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Seems like you made it more complicated than it needed to be. You could have lifted the front with the blade and blocked it. Then used a hyd. jack and blocked the back of the machine or vice/versa. Pushing on the ROPS with another machine is probably pretty far down the list for most people.
Guess to each their own, figured the machine didn't weight much and the rops should be able to handle the load, and it did with no issue. Not sure I would try it if it was a much larger machine, but even the rops on a larger machine should be built to handle a roll over
Lifting the blade wouldn't have helped because the cylinders are disconnected. At any rate 30 minutes total and was back working on it.
Lifting the blade wouldn't have helped because the cylinders are disconnected. At any rate 30 minutes total and was back working on it.
wosama931b
Senior Member
I know that you mean about the bolts , I had my cat up on blocks , used a come along to turn the track , axcess hole next to the sprocket , need a super long extinction , to get past the track .
One thing I did learn , was the new brake liner was very stiff ,
and I need to read visit mine . good luck , sam.
One thing I did learn , was the new brake liner was very stiff ,
and I need to read visit mine . good luck , sam.
Clutches are back in, brake bands attached.
Bought a Kent Moore 3 inch flat boxed end adapter to torque inside, and it was no go. The thing just barely fits on the bolt head and after turning slightly the thing cannot be removed. Tried a few different things and nothing worked. So used 2 boxed wrenches and tightened them down good. Was able to torque all the outside bolts.
Previous install stripped one of the outside holes, so one less bolt.
Anyone know what the orange silicone looking adhesive is? Its on all the surfaces and appears to have been applied with a brush
Bought a Kent Moore 3 inch flat boxed end adapter to torque inside, and it was no go. The thing just barely fits on the bolt head and after turning slightly the thing cannot be removed. Tried a few different things and nothing worked. So used 2 boxed wrenches and tightened them down good. Was able to torque all the outside bolts.
Previous install stripped one of the outside holes, so one less bolt.
Anyone know what the orange silicone looking adhesive is? Its on all the surfaces and appears to have been applied with a brush