I have 40 ply old minning tires on this blade and want to get something else not so bad about getting stuck all of the time with the rock tread, we have lots of sand and black gumbo ans these tires are horrid in sand or mud????
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Cutting edges and tires..........
- Thread starter Silveroddo
- Start date
Queenslander
Senior Member
I've decided to go with the 24 ply rags. The radials would definitly wear better in clean going, but with the sort of treatment we give them they may not handle it.
I hate throwing away tyres with heaps of tread left.
Price for both tyres is about the same, 1500 of our pacific pesos, which seems alot compared to what you are paying in the U.S.
I'll post a pic when I get them on.
Cheers, Greg
biggrader
Well-Known Member
Our tire dealers in this area are also telling us that 18-25 are all but impossible to find. We had a set on an old Terex loader that were bad and ended up changing all to 20.5-25.
Our tire dealers in this area are also telling us that 18-25 are all but impossible to find. We had a set on an old Terex loader that were bad and ended up changing all to 20.5-25.
Thanks so much for posting up, I was thinking i was going nuts or something, thats the same thing i have run into down here and on the web at all of the tire places i could find to call and ask for tire 18x25 in recap or a good used, looks like thats is what i must do as well, i actually have 5 good tires and one ruined, but its cheaper to go to the 2 inch wider and about 5 inch shorter 20,5x25 bias tires in 16 ply L2 i found for about $1000 each vs the 18x25 in 38 plys that are $2500 plus shipping that i found and cant stand anyway due to them slipping on anything where i use the blade
18x25 50 percent used i find for like $1000 to $1250 plus shipping in the E4 38 ply rock tread and very far away, its right there where it does not make sense to buy them vs buying 2 new tires on the front in 20,5x25 16 ply bias that are readily available down here $980each, overnight, this blade has been down for 2 months while i have been trying to sort this out, if i was contracting be titts up, we just have a 1800 acre hunting ranch with 20 miles of roads in a wetland area down in coastal south texas that have to be run out about 2 to 3 times a year due to ruts and wash outs, sometimes we get 100 inches per year sometimes like this year we have had 3 so far so i can wait until i get good tires on this giant blade, I have had to have a 1 1/8 town cable made up and try to watch where i am working with the machine, its so heavy and big and powerful that sometimes while i am blading in sandy loam with a short grass cover running out bar ditches the land will switch to sand in a instant and spin these tires befor i can stop and it burys it to the tandeums, I have a old 76 Mack winch truck with a Tulsa 70 winch and rolling tailboard that i usually have to tie with heavy chains and double snatch blocks to get the maintianer unstuck when i get stuck in the blowsand break thrus and the mud sticks ocassionally, i try to avoid the known spots of sticking but sometimes just backing up gets me buried as these rock lug tires do not pull in reverse and it just trenches down and its a walkout to the old Mack, thats why i am really wanting to start replacing the mine high ply radials with L2 grader type tires eventually, i know the fronts wont make much difference but i can afford to buy a complete set right now but can afford a pair for the front, I am going to ask as well when i do get this 20,5 wide tire selection figured out and start mounting them on the rear drive wheels should i reverse one pair or tires to help me with backing out in mud and sand vs the normal all pulling tread the same way?? I have had some old ranch hands on a ranch next to use tell me this over andover that when they still had a maintainer on their ranch they ran the tires in a set like this so they could back up and pull both ways instead of the normal pulling one direction, it makes sense to me and i am going to try it i figure, whathappens down here is the hunters come down for a month only in rental cars usually and we need the road to be pothole free and draining so i am forced to run the blade earlier than i would on a normal job where could wait a extra week to let it dry out so as not to get stuck, whats crazy about this jbsite is it can have one end muddy and the other end is dryed up getting stuck in hot dry suagar blow sand so its always dangerous to work, the blade is so much heavier than the old 14 e i had for years i am still getting used to the break thru feel from the front tires due to the 55,000 weight of this blade, thansk to all for posting, all ihave to do now is make sure the 20,5x25 will fit on my 18x25 wheels and not lower the machine to much, truthfully, a couple of the 18x25 radials are so low tread the new 20'5x25 will be the same height or very close, i am worried about the 20,5 clearing the chain drive boxes in the back but will know by taking one fo the extra front 20,5x25 i will prob buy now and test fit it to the rear to run it a bit to see if it willhit, i know it is shorter and can not be run over 15 minutes due to the mismacth in tire heights but need a test run before i end up with 4 ties i can not run due to hitting or something, i may be borrowing trobule i dotn know, just need to run this by the grader gang guys to see if my head is thinking right!! Thansks so much,
the 18x25 rock lug 36 plys are 63 inches new, the 20,5x25 bias 16 ply bias are 58 inches so it should work, we will see, i going to look at some cat 16 pictures with floats on it to see if they used the same wheel as i have and just put the wider tires on it vs getting new wheels wider than stock, 2 inchs wider should fit on my stock cat 16 wheels i figure, thanka again for the ideas!!! Has anybody installed 20,5's where 18x25 were before and did you have to get new wheels or have interference issuses?? What tire did you go to, a bias or radial type and what lug type and where did you buy it and how much did it cost and in what ply?? I have 5 piece wheels on the 16 and i am just not sure, are all of the new bias ply offered now tub type or can i run them tublelss like the 18x25 that are on there now??
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biggrader
Well-Known Member
the 20.5 should fit on 18-25 rims. The rims may be a little narrower than what a standard 20.5 rim is, but should work. We havent had any problems with the 20.5's on the terex. We went to bias tires just because the loader does not get used much and the tires will probably dry rot before the tread is wore up. As far as the cat 16.....?. I have no clue if it will work or not. sorry not much help today but that is the way it goes, Some days chicken, some day feathers.
Thats what i have been finding, the blade is so old nobody knows what to update it to since the 18x25 selections is tiny and plus i wanted better tires anyways tread wise, i am thinking about going to buy 1 20,5x25 and try to get it mounted, problem is where i am at the wetbacks tire worms down here dont understand what a 5 piece wheel is and how to change it and get new o rings and clean up the wheel/oring groove etc with a wire wheel and paint/prime it, these tires are glued on with years of rust and rubber sticked to the wheel so they are going to have to have the correct hydra pump assisted bead breaker and the oring installer as well, will prob have to load the wheels up myself and take them in to San Tone Texas to get the OTR dealer to dismount them and mount the 20,5x25s in case they cant get them on i can pay for the attempt and get a refund or adjustment on the tires and try to hunt up some 18x25 used somewhere online to escape this tire problem, prob is in Tyres International in rock and dirt they have the 20,5x25's 16 ply L2 grader tires for $870 plus $100 shipping to me, the dealer has a same tire for $1400, gees its crazy out there nowdays, you have to know how to do everybodys job, check for price and specs, order the correct tire for the dealer, make sure they have the correct bead breaker and oring installer, omg, i will get it done some day soon!!! Its so sad that nobody in this country seems to know what the work is about, wants to do it, has the correct tools and is price competive anymore, bet in china the whole village would chew rubber trees and retread it right there to newlol Just kidding, I am just so far away the mileage for the real tire truck guy is almost 1/2 the price of a tire alas, lots of the guys i called would not sell used wheels due to liab insurance not covering them, omg !!!!
biggrader
Well-Known Member
No doubt the tire is stuck to the rim. One can spend all day trying to get it off the rim......or one can let the air out and drive it around the yard.lol Anyway, good luck getting the tire changed. let us know if there is any interference with the chaincase.
I already drove the blade around but only got one side to break loose from twisting and breaking flat on one sidelol Whats crazy was the idiot poser that came out to allegely dismount the tire, he thought it was like a tractor tire with no rings or oring, its a 5 piece wheel with oring to seal the bead, he suggested taking removing the wheel with a bead removal tool, so he went back to town to borrow one, anyway he came back with one for a tractor, a manual set up, it would not work as it does not push the bead enuff, its stroke was too short the the 18x25 tire!! It takes one made for the actual job, omg, i could just see this idiot trying to take wheel apart and reassemble it, i told him it needed a new oring and a ring safetly lock that was missing, his suggestion was to call the dealer, I told him the dealer is you!! Anyways he gave up with no chargelol I been measuring the 20,5 and looks like i will get one mounted and try it on the rear to see how the clearance issue is, whats crazy is trying to figure out if a newer 16g with 23,5 x25's had what width wheel and what offset??? I am going up to San Antone Tex this morning and try to see if Holt Cat has a new 16 in the yard to spy on, actually while looking thru the cat 16 parts book i find the machine had 24 inch wheels on the front and 25 inchers on the rear from the factory, so the saga continues, found 4 or 5 more used tire dealers last night to call and beg for tires today when i get home, still up in the air if i will just get to good used at $1250 each at 50 percent 18x25's mining tires or new dirt L2 type bias 16 plys 20,5x25's at $1000 each new, I just wish i new if they would work or the rear drives without hitting and also if they will fit on my 18x25 wheel, the book says the 18x25 tire needs a 13 inch wide wheel, the book says the 20,5x25 tire needs a 17 inch wide wheel, question is can a person make a 20,5 fit on the narrower wheel n be ok??? 4 inch difference could lead to hell on earth trying to get the rings back on without a tire press of some kind to get room for the rings to fit on the beadlol
Nige
Senior Member
Looking at the 16 (49G prefix) and 16G (93U prefix) the rims for 18.00x25 bias tyres have different offset in relation to the centre disc. See the photos below. On the left is your 16 rim, in the centre is an 18.00x25 rim for 16G, and on the right a 19.5" rim for a 16G wide base tyre (23.5R25). Unless the illustrations are lying a 16G rim of any type will not fit on to your machine and give the correct offset.
I am working with a friend in the OTR tyre business to see if the 20.5R25 tyre will fit on the 13" wide rim you have, or if he can offer you any other suggestions.
I am working with a friend in the OTR tyre business to see if the 20.5R25 tyre will fit on the 13" wide rim you have, or if he can offer you any other suggestions.
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Queenslander
Senior Member
We changed out our old tyres yesterday, new ones have 0 hrs at the moment.
I saw them before they were mounted, seem to be almost bulletproof in construction.
I don't anticipate any traction problems in the conditions we operate under, but time will tell.
I've had our old tyres with "leg o mutton" tread, bury themselves in double quick time in sand and mud as well.
Sorry, phone pics aren't the best quality.
Cheers, Greg
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140Monster
Member
2 things, i have never seen a john deere pull a cat, and i have seen a cat pull a john deere 4 times now.....
and also Queenslander, those tyres are pretty good, i had those on a 140h tier and got great wear, though when the tread gets low you will find you may get a flat or 2. and before trimming i had to race up the road to try and settle them down a bit. but overall not bad
and also Queenslander, those tyres are pretty good, i had those on a 140h tier and got great wear, though when the tread gets low you will find you may get a flat or 2. and before trimming i had to race up the road to try and settle them down a bit. but overall not bad
Wow, how kool and what a real blade you have with that ripper 100 ton hyda jack to change out the tandems, i had a flashback when i saw those pictures of the your cat blade with the ripper holding up the rears so could get the tires off, I remember seeing a pipeliner come thru with a 14 and ripper n a spare tire hanging off of the rears just like yours once, the operator has installed a motor driven air compressor that you turned a knurled handle to push it agaisnt the fan belt to make air pressure, he had a complete tire repair kit and hose in a extra tool box on th eblade so he did not have to have downtime due to a flat tire runiing out the pipeline right of way, he was paid by the mile by the general contractor and had 3 Cat old 14'e working on the 50 mile line that was thru some bad heavy brush with lots of stump, he was following behind 4 d8 cat 36 direct dirves with angle dozers that were tree knocking and stacking the 150 right of way, gees those guys were a real crew, one cat had a long long tow cable wrapped on the winch plus what ever was on the drum and they had a 2 ton 4x4 service truck following them the whole time with cb raido and huge 150 cfm air compresore to blow off dust and leaves so no fire from all of the brush they were working in, the eagle ford ol play is near us and lots of pipleines going in right now but it is nto the same with the quality of work any more, they start late and end early, you dont see the 24hr shifts like you used to see when catskiners were everywhere, now its kids playing video games and texting while operating HE!!lol
hi texan
have you tried already to put th 20.5 on your 18.00's how did it end...if so how was it do the fit widely...di you haveny trouble on the back with the tandem? thanks
have you tried already to put th 20.5 on your 18.00's how did it end...if so how was it do the fit widely...di you haveny trouble on the back with the tandem? thanks
Iron In Motion
Member
Don't waste your time on dealer Cat cutting edges. For the most part you would prefer a cheaper metal such as a carbon blade to be cost effective. However if you want to make them last longer and spend the money use a bernil edge. I believe I am spelling that right. There is a company in Canada that is pretty good at providing a quality edge. They are valley blade. Cheaper carbon edge would be from bucyrus or black cat.
RocksnRoses
Senior Member
- Joined
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- South Australia
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Queenslander, I would be interested in hearing how your new tyres are going and what you think of them. How do they compare with the old ones for traction?
RnR.
RnR.
Queenslander
Senior Member
G'Day RnR,
We've done about 400 hrs on the new tyres and so far they've performed really well.
No flats and no noticeable lack of traction.
They seem to be wearing much better as well, just a few cuts and scratches from rocks etc.
For our sort of work I think they are a much better choice than radials.
At the moment, we are maintenance grading for council on roads through timbered country that haven't had drains or batters done for nearly ten years.
Plenty of tyre damaging regrowth to shift.
Cheers, Greg
We've done about 400 hrs on the new tyres and so far they've performed really well.
No flats and no noticeable lack of traction.
They seem to be wearing much better as well, just a few cuts and scratches from rocks etc.
For our sort of work I think they are a much better choice than radials.
At the moment, we are maintenance grading for council on roads through timbered country that haven't had drains or batters done for nearly ten years.
Plenty of tyre damaging regrowth to shift.
Cheers, Greg
RocksnRoses
Senior Member
- Joined
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- South Australia
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The reason I asked, Queenslander, was that we had rock lug tyres on a Komatsu GD625 grader and they were not very good at all for traction, good tough tyres for rocks, which we do a lot of, but not traction. We fitted Michelin non directional radials and they were a lot better. The other thing which I think affected the traction, was that this grader had been fitted with 17.5 x 24 tyres and while you would have thought it would improve traction, it seemed to have less ground pressure with the larger tyre area, which created more wheel slippage, adding more weight may have helped. Our Champion 720, on 14 x 24 tyres has a lot more traction.
RnR.
RnR.
Queenslander
Senior Member
The problem with our 12G, in most instances, is that it tends to run out of power before traction becomes much of an issue.
This was the case on the first job with these tyres, cutting fire breaks through thick buffel grass in brigalow country,a job probably unique to Queensland.
Good traction but very heavy going.
Might be a different story with say, a 140, similar weight but more HP.
Cheers, Greg
This was the case on the first job with these tyres, cutting fire breaks through thick buffel grass in brigalow country,a job probably unique to Queensland.
Good traction but very heavy going.
Might be a different story with say, a 140, similar weight but more HP.
Cheers, Greg
CatGrader
Well-Known Member
Rock lugs ? Radials ? What for out there in the outback ? look it's a fine line out there. Some of those sticks that flick up after your blade has gone over them are sun dried have been siting there for christ knows how long and there just like driving over a steel knife. Rock lugs will cut down on the punctures but you won't get any traction. there not designed to work in sand and out back materials. Radials ? yeah right as I said those sticks will go strait trough them. It's part of the hazzard of the outback. and believe me I know. Stick with the standards your going to get a flat whether you like it or not. and there cheaper to replace after you get your 600 th puncture. She's rough out there stick with it.
RocksnRoses
Senior Member
- Joined
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- South Australia
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- Owner operater crushing & contracting business
Rock lugs ? Radials ? What for out there in the outback ? look it's a fine line out there. Some of those sticks that flick up after your blade has gone over them are sun dried have been siting there for christ knows how long and there just like driving over a steel knife. Rock lugs will cut down on the punctures but you won't get any traction. there not designed to work in sand and out back materials. Radials ? yeah right as I said those sticks will go strait trough them. It's part of the hazzard of the outback. and believe me I know. Stick with the standards your going to get a flat whether you like it or not. and there cheaper to replace after you get your 600 th puncture. She's rough out there stick with it.
G'day CatGrader, to answer your queries, rock lugs, the grader came with rock lugs fitted to it when we bought it. Radials, they give far more traction in soft conditions, because they tend to wrap themselves around the ground, especially in sand, which we have quite a lot of here. Outback, I am not in the outback, I am in South Australia and a lot of our grading work is grading rocks ahead of a roller, building farm roads. Sticks are not a problem here, but I am well aware of the problems caused by sticks in the north, the likes of Lancewood in the Territory.
RnR.