Caterpillar Sproket Removal (also Komatsu)

[tctractors]

Dirty, I have a few unusual jobs on this coming week on the "Spider Plough" well its on the Winch unit so its onwards and upwards, the drum is full loaded with 42mm Die Formed steel cable so its a good bit of Baggage to stow, if I damage the cable I will be tapped up for 5 Large (£5'000) for a new bit of string to stuff on it, so I am ticking the brain cells (just 2 of e'm) on the best way to crack on without dropping a Bollock, today my job was cut short by the "Hoy Paloy" sorts jambing the Site full of Fancy 4x4 chariots brim full of Shotgun toting Whisky Drinkers, all this Fire power against some daft but nice looking Birds, anyhow I need to get a Cab off a Scania Truck using a Gantry that is to low, so today I have made it High Enough, photo's coming soon.

tctractors

 

[dirty4fun]

Tony, Hope you get both brain cells up and running smooth as an old Johnny popper hitting on both. Sounds like you will become a surgeon carefully working through the braids of steel, instead of organs. As always looking forward to your snaps and some of your great descriptions, of work and the comings and goings to get to your work. Maybe a few of those birds will fall close by and you can be a hero taking them home to your bride. Jim

 

[scotty4040]

Thank you very much for the info in this thread. I am about to change out the sprockets on a 9U D6. I have a Cat puller tool, but not sure what I need from the kit (just bought a large box with the cylinder, pump and a bunch of tubes/adapters.

So when pulling the sprocket, the puller pins to the adapter that threads to the dead shaft and pushes off of the deadshaft and not the bull gear where the splines are? The tool catalog shows a bunch of tubes, what are they for and are they needed?

Also, when installing a sprocket, what surface does the pusher push against on the sprocket? (the front face just above the splined area?)

Thanks for any help

 

[tctractors]

scotty, to pull and push your rims on a D6 is not hard its the bits before and after that take a bit of sorting, in your box of bits is there a large adjustable C spanner? as it comes in handy, and to what level do you have the tractor stripped down, have you removed the blade (if fitted) then split both track groups and pulled the frames out? a few photos of your tooling would be handy along with a snap or 2 of your tractor and I will give you any assistance you will need, oh and draining the oil from the F/Drives is another winner if you like things tidy, if you are going to change out the sprockets no doubt you are going to pop off the casings to check its innards??
tctractors

 

[scotty4040]

thanks tc.... I actually have 2 machines. I have the sideframes off and yes, I do have the large adj. spanner for the bearing nut. I have a yellow book which does pretty good. But when looking at what it calls for for pulling does not match most of the pictures you show, which seem like the puller just pins to the dead axle via the adapter and pushes that while pulling through the spokes. Then I think I am now straight on pushing it back on, the sprocket pusher can go either way, the 6.5" OD side against the sprocket for the D6 and the smaller side would be for a D4?? I will try to get some pics, but am not near the machine at this time.

 

[scotty4040]

I meant to say 2 machines, one is parts that has good sprockets and tracks. Its all apart, just ready to pull the sprockets. Will be draining the oil and looking at the pinion and bull gears.

 

[tctractors]

scotty, if you follow the service book its sort of hard work, in later times there was a revised method to pull /push sprockets for a single man to do it by himself, the first job to do is removal of the outer carrier bearing hub, this involves un-bolting the end cap , removing the dead shaft nut and the plate including any shims behind it, facing you will be 2 dowels and the D/shaft stub, screw on your nose adaptor (early 1"1/2 x 12 later 1"3/4 x 12) until the end of the adapter is about 1/8" of an inch from the dowels (a small gap) then tighten the hub adjuster nut with the C spanner and a length of pipe (5 ft tube and nut locks removed) fit your cylinder complete with the pin nose into the adaptor on the dead shaft and fit up your legs to the rim, then pump the cylinder out until the outer hub pops off with the dowels now touching the adaptor and strip off the tooling, place an oil tray under the sprocket to catch oil from the hub as you pull it off the shaft, you will now see a bearing with the locked rim nut, tap the lock ears free, then you need to find a spacer plate or collar that will go into and stop end the carrier hub via the dead shaft adaptor, smear some grease on the collar face that is going to touch the hub and tighten the adaptor on to the D/shaft until firm then undo 1 full turn max, put a bar through the end of the adaptor so it will stop it turning, then fit your C spanner to the hub nut and start the engine and in 1st speed undo the nut until you can drop the Horse shoe fitting between the nut (done back up) and the bearing to force the bearing all the way off, if your engine will not run you have a bit of work on with the 5 foot tube, the next bit you DO NOT MESS UP as damage or Blood might fly, you remove the Big nut and the tin lock from the hub, then re-fit the big nut to the hub leaving a small gap between the nut and sprocket (3/16th is ok a 1/4" is to loose) then with the spacer collar and the adapter done up firm and eased off about 1/2 a turn fit up your cylinder and pull legs to the rim and pull the sprocket free, be WARNED before you start pumping anything look at the NUT and make sure its good and always pin the cylinder through the rod nose to the dead shaft.
I still would like to see a few snaps tctractor

p.s. the standard rod out length is around 6" make sure you are not at the rod out limit.

 

[RonG]

Where else???Where else could you get this?Wow!Ron G

 

[dirty4fun]

The help you get on this site is wonderful, where else can you find so much knowledge so freely shared.

Tony, thanks for sharing your knowledge, thou I did miss your usual lot of verbs being used on this occasion.

 

[tctractors]

Dirty, I had a bit of Comedy this afternoon at a very posh Farm, next to the Cat D4 that I am working on is pens of the very best Hereford critters, these animals are looked after by a dry old character that is around 80 years old and seems to like a pint of Cider with his bread and cheese at lunch time, now he tends to move in a slow and sort of tricky style but credit to him the work is his way of life and he does crack on, he often drives about in 1 of those dodgy looking 4 wheel buggy jobs that look favourite to tip over, anyhow this afternoon he pulled up in the death trap cart about 40ft from me where he parks the thing, as he walked past he said "I've Had a Blowout" I asked if he wanted me to change the wheel, only to be told it was the wrong blow out as he had **** himself, eating my meal this evening has been a task as I keep laughing about the old chap.
tctractors

 

[kshansen]

Dang TC you should put an alert out to put down all food and liquid refreshments when you are going to post something like that!

 

[scotty4040]

scotty, if you follow the service book its sort of hard work, in later times there was a revised method to pull /push sprockets for a single man to do it by himself, the first job to do is removal of the outer carrier bearing hub, this involves un-bolting the end cap , removing the dead shaft nut and the plate including any shims behind it, facing you will be 2 dowels and the D/shaft stub, screw on your nose adaptor (early 1"1/2 x 12 later 1"3/4 x 12) until the end of the adapter is about 1/8" of an inch from the dowels (a small gap) then tighten the hub adjuster nut with the C spanner and a length of pipe (5 ft tube and nut locks removed) fit your cylinder complete with the pin nose into the adaptor on the dead shaft and fit up your legs to the rim, then pump the cylinder out until the outer hub pops off with the dowels now touching the adaptor and strip off the tooling, place an oil tray under the sprocket to catch oil from the hub as you pull it off the shaft, you will now see a bearing with the locked rim nut, tap the lock ears free, then you need to find a spacer plate or collar that will go into and stop end the carrier hub via the dead shaft adaptor, smear some grease on the collar face that is going to touch the hub and tighten the adaptor on to the D/shaft until firm then undo 1 full turn max, put a bar through the end of the adaptor so it will stop it turning, then fit your C spanner to the hub nut and start the engine and in 1st speed undo the nut until you can drop the Horse shoe fitting between the nut (done back up) and the bearing to force the bearing all the way off, if your engine will not run you have a bit of work on with the 5 foot tube, the next bit you DO NOT MESS UP as damage or Blood might fly, you remove the Big nut and the tin lock from the hub, then re-fit the big nut to the hub leaving a small gap between the nut and sprocket (3/16th is ok a 1/4" is to loose) then with the spacer collar and the adapter done up firm and eased off about 1/2 a turn fit up your cylinder and pull legs to the rim and pull the sprocket free, be WARNED before you start pumping anything look at the NUT and make sure its good and always pin the cylinder through the rod nose to the dead shaft.
I still would like to see a few snaps tctractor

p.s. the standard rod out length is around 6" make sure you are not at the rod out limit.

Here is the parts machine... it is less engine now as we sold it. Was a pipelayer. Made the track frames extra fun to remove! I will get more pics at another time.

 

[scotty4040]

thanks again for your help

 

[Blk prince]

tctractors,what is this. Not able to give the old gent a warm friendly hand? Haha

 

[tctractors]

B.p. I could have gone back to the Farm Site today but I am going to a Landfill Track pin pushing instead until the air clears, I have had an odd and not common little Track Shovel dropped off with 1 track not driving, its a 931 C series that I have never seen or worked on before, so I will be taking a few snaps of the thing as they are not common to find in the U.K. its not from my location so it should work out well for the owners and myself, as they want it fixed and I want to look at it.
tctractors

p.s. Scotty, all the direction I gave you is easy to understand if you look at the pictures I have posted to enhance the verbs.

 

[dirty4fun]

T C Once you get older you will better understand how a mistake like a Shart can happen. Best to sty away for a day or to till the air clears, and the Fruit of the Looms also.

Scotty The old dozer looks like you had it parked in Chicago over night!

 

[Blk prince]

tctractors,finally a new challenge. This is what keeps the brain cells working. Keep us posted when time permits

 

[tctractors]

Well the little 931C was just like a 931 but with trendy bits added, sadly it looks an easy fix as a steering control rod has dropped off the spool valve arm , plus it needs a brake adjust that looks a fiddle to get at, the owners will be happy if this is all it needs, tomorrow its back working on the Spider Plough, I will post some snaps for the weekend.
tctractors

 

[tctractors]

some pics of me at work

 

[tctractors]

a few more pics of me at work