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Hey Mcrafty, as I’m sure you’ve done, I looked thru several HEF projects/recommendation posts, then on my 67/68 D5 I used Tractor Supply 80w90 and a gallon of Lucas oil stabilizer (split between both finals). Truth be told I want to run the Cat TDTO 50 (in trans and finals)…but knowing the fluids in this machine are 10-12 years old(!) and have been “topped off with 15W40 engine oil” by PO, I figure why “waste” the Cat oil. My machine has some leaks and with the “sludge” that is likely in the various compartments; my plan is to hit the fluid reset “button”, run everything for a while, then change oils/filters (long before the decade mark!!). I also prefer changing oils when they’re HOT…everything is “mixed-in” and flows better.
BTW, I now appreciate how difficult it is to clean/flush a final drive compartment- it’s dam tight in there! Since I’m juggling a few maintenance/repair items, I was NOT able to have the tracks up off the ground…this eliminated me from rotating the tracks while flushing the final with (small amount) of Kerosene…I’m VERY confident I would have gotten much more crap out... next time!
Are you going to “hurt” your old final using 140 weight, doubt it. Probably the same can be said for a 30 weight! Then factor location “average” temp and your choices quickly narrow into the 40-90 “range” (likely).
Lastly, I do believe certain oils have negative effects on the seals…but most seal leaks are caused by out of adjustment wear, age, or casualty of some other breakage.
Hey- just the fact you’re getting old oil out and new oil in is huge! …and you got a data point on the magnet too!!
I won’t even bitch about the lack of supply for oils/grease up this way…
Wow…checkout the “choices” in the grease gun isle!!