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Cat 951-C in my sights
- Thread starter Nitelite
- Start date
Nitelite
Senior Member
Yes it has a tilt cylinder, actually it is a mapt blade set up. The dozer is a fine machine on a 100% undercarriage, salt. The track loader is a work in progress machine and I hope to have it top notch by spring. The previous owner neglected it and it needs some TLC.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Does anyone know the correct filter number for the transmission on a Cat 951C. 86J2188. I also need the filter number for the steering clutch housing. I removed the clutch filter and it was a 1R0719. I am not sure that that is the right filter. I called the local cat dealer but he seemed unsure. Does the clutch housing filter, under the seat, and the transmission filter call for the same filter number?
What problems am I likely to run into when replacing the o ring that seals the pre combustion chamber to the cylinder head? I have the seals ordered. I am considering doing a valve job and maybe an in frame rebuild over the winter, but, I would like to resolve the coolant leak before a major tear down. I am hoping that an o ring is the extent of the coolant leak and not a cracked head or worse.
What problems am I likely to run into when replacing the o ring that seals the pre combustion chamber to the cylinder head? I have the seals ordered. I am considering doing a valve job and maybe an in frame rebuild over the winter, but, I would like to resolve the coolant leak before a major tear down. I am hoping that an o ring is the extent of the coolant leak and not a cracked head or worse.
Nige
Senior Member
For the transmission the filter is listed as 9M-9740, cancelled and replaced by 1R-0719. If you want to run something for a few hours (say 50-100) to really clean up the oil and pull all the particles out of it that may be floating around, install a 132-8875 High-Efficiency filter. There are 3 different levels of filter efficiency for that size, 1R-0719 is the lowest, 1R-0773 is in the middle, & 132-8875 is the highest. I'd run 1R-0773 as "standard" once the system was clean.
For the steering clutch lubrication system the filter is listed as a 5S-0484, CRB 1R-0659.
For the steering clutch lubrication system the filter is listed as a 5S-0484, CRB 1R-0659.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Thanks Nige, sounds like sound advice to me, and thanks for the filter numbers.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Fuel leak fix
In the first picture you can see the coolant leak on the top of the cylinder head. It looks to be coming from the #2 pre combustion chamber. I hope it is just the o ring and that I can change the chamber o rings without pulling the exhaust manifold. If I do have to pull the manifold I expect that there will be some studs that will break off.:Banghead:Banghead
Can someone tell me what the pictured part below the fuel filter is. The maintenance meter is bolted to it and then the complete assembly bolts the engine block just below the fuel filter. It is leaking diesel fuel down on to the alternator. As you can see the previous owner cut a side out of a plastic jug to protect it from the constant drip. That is a brand new alternator, the old one was ruined by the fuel leak.
As pictured, I think that I have the correct new seals, a new fuel filter, and a new meter. What, if any, trouble am I going to get into when I tear into the seal job on the unidentified part. It looks like two metal blocks bolted together that must be separated after removal from the engine block. It also looks like the meter has been patched with the clamp and metal bar over the window. My manual does not show a break down or a whole lot about what to expect when I disassemble the part. I expect to find a geared shaft and I hope no springs or steel balls to come flying out at me.
The four large o rings are to replace the seals on the pre combustion chambers to stop the coolant leak. I am just waiting on better weather.
.
In the first picture you can see the coolant leak on the top of the cylinder head. It looks to be coming from the #2 pre combustion chamber. I hope it is just the o ring and that I can change the chamber o rings without pulling the exhaust manifold. If I do have to pull the manifold I expect that there will be some studs that will break off.:Banghead:Banghead
Can someone tell me what the pictured part below the fuel filter is. The maintenance meter is bolted to it and then the complete assembly bolts the engine block just below the fuel filter. It is leaking diesel fuel down on to the alternator. As you can see the previous owner cut a side out of a plastic jug to protect it from the constant drip. That is a brand new alternator, the old one was ruined by the fuel leak.
As pictured, I think that I have the correct new seals, a new fuel filter, and a new meter. What, if any, trouble am I going to get into when I tear into the seal job on the unidentified part. It looks like two metal blocks bolted together that must be separated after removal from the engine block. It also looks like the meter has been patched with the clamp and metal bar over the window. My manual does not show a break down or a whole lot about what to expect when I disassemble the part. I expect to find a geared shaft and I hope no springs or steel balls to come flying out at me.
The four large o rings are to replace the seals on the pre combustion chambers to stop the coolant leak. I am just waiting on better weather.
.
Attachments
Nitelite
Senior Member
Old equiptment and an old man.
I am catching up on what I have done since rebuilding the lift and tilt cylinders.
Also had to replace one carrier roller. After removing two retaining bolts that hold the roller I applied a little heat to the bracket. Also used a little force behind the roller with a hydraulic wedge and port a power. To install the new roller I used the port a power to push between the blade of my D4E and the face of the new roller .:notworthy As you can see in the picture, the old roller locked up and it looks like it was ran that way for some time by the previous owner. This old gal had lots of problems and suffered from neglect and abuse. despite the lack of attention, we are working things out, one issue at a time.
I have a need to haul silt from my lake that I will drain and clean out with the loader and dozer in the spring. I think this old 1971 Ford F600 dump truck should fill that need if I respect its age. I found the old farm grain truck for sale a few weeks back. The speedometer cable is broken and the previous owner, who bought the truck new, estimates about 35,000 miles on the truck. I bought it and drove it home on the interstate. It runs good, drives good and we kept up with the traffic at about 65 mph for the 75 mile drive. GVW on the door plate is stated at 32,000 lbs. Ford V8 330 cid 4 speed w/ 2 speed rear axel and fair tires at the affordable price of $1500.00. I will be hauling the spoil from the cleanout site about 800 yards to the dump site.
I am looking forward to getting started in the spring. I have much more work to do on the machines before I start to work them. The 1978 model D4E, the 1978 model 951C, the 1971 model Ford 600 and the 1949 model me make up the team. What I have not mentioned so far, is that on September 14, 2013, just a few weeks back, I shut down the D4 and climbed down. I walked in front of the machine and died at 1:42 pm central time. Forty one seconds later my implanted defibrulator fired and brought me back. I don't know how long I actually laid in front of the blade before I regained consciousness but I woke up flat of my back, staring at the sky. I laid there another ten minutes enjoying the most peaceful feeling that I have ever had in my life. I got up, got back on the dozer and worked until dark not really comprehending what had taken place.
Later that evening over dinner I did mention the strange incident to my wife. Early the next morning the Veterans hospital called and told me the precise time it was when I actually flat lined. My implanted unit had contacted San Francisco and reported the incident. San Francisco, in turn, contacted the VA hospital in Nashville TN. and they called me and explained what had taken place. I could not explain just exactly what it was that had taken place and I did not realize that I had been unconscious and I also did not know that I had received the shock from the defribulator. I do ,however, now realize how lucky I am. Had I not survived I would have missed the birth of my first grandson by less than twelve hours!
I have not altered my plans. Since that day in September I bought the Cat loader and the dump truck and have since done a lot of work on the equipment. I can't say which one of us will break down next. We are all old iron, and as far as playing in the dirt and working on the old iron goes, I am living a dream.
I am catching up on what I have done since rebuilding the lift and tilt cylinders.
Also had to replace one carrier roller. After removing two retaining bolts that hold the roller I applied a little heat to the bracket. Also used a little force behind the roller with a hydraulic wedge and port a power. To install the new roller I used the port a power to push between the blade of my D4E and the face of the new roller .:notworthy As you can see in the picture, the old roller locked up and it looks like it was ran that way for some time by the previous owner. This old gal had lots of problems and suffered from neglect and abuse. despite the lack of attention, we are working things out, one issue at a time.I have a need to haul silt from my lake that I will drain and clean out with the loader and dozer in the spring. I think this old 1971 Ford F600 dump truck should fill that need if I respect its age. I found the old farm grain truck for sale a few weeks back. The speedometer cable is broken and the previous owner, who bought the truck new, estimates about 35,000 miles on the truck. I bought it and drove it home on the interstate. It runs good, drives good and we kept up with the traffic at about 65 mph for the 75 mile drive. GVW on the door plate is stated at 32,000 lbs. Ford V8 330 cid 4 speed w/ 2 speed rear axel and fair tires at the affordable price of $1500.00. I will be hauling the spoil from the cleanout site about 800 yards to the dump site.
I am looking forward to getting started in the spring. I have much more work to do on the machines before I start to work them. The 1978 model D4E, the 1978 model 951C, the 1971 model Ford 600 and the 1949 model me make up the team. What I have not mentioned so far, is that on September 14, 2013, just a few weeks back, I shut down the D4 and climbed down. I walked in front of the machine and died at 1:42 pm central time. Forty one seconds later my implanted defibrulator fired and brought me back. I don't know how long I actually laid in front of the blade before I regained consciousness but I woke up flat of my back, staring at the sky. I laid there another ten minutes enjoying the most peaceful feeling that I have ever had in my life. I got up, got back on the dozer and worked until dark not really comprehending what had taken place.
Later that evening over dinner I did mention the strange incident to my wife. Early the next morning the Veterans hospital called and told me the precise time it was when I actually flat lined. My implanted unit had contacted San Francisco and reported the incident. San Francisco, in turn, contacted the VA hospital in Nashville TN. and they called me and explained what had taken place. I could not explain just exactly what it was that had taken place and I did not realize that I had been unconscious and I also did not know that I had received the shock from the defribulator. I do ,however, now realize how lucky I am. Had I not survived I would have missed the birth of my first grandson by less than twelve hours!
I have not altered my plans. Since that day in September I bought the Cat loader and the dump truck and have since done a lot of work on the equipment. I can't say which one of us will break down next. We are all old iron, and as far as playing in the dirt and working on the old iron goes, I am living a dream.
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spitzair
Senior Member
Wow, glad to hear that you are still among us! That's some scarry stuff!
You'll absolutely love the F600, my dad bought a 1975 model back in the mid 90s, it had been rode hard and put away wet but it still runs great. I don't know how many thousands of loads of gravel, wood, rocks, boulders, etc. I've hauled with it since then. It has the inline 6 engine and a 5 speed with a 2 speed rear end. The biggest issue with this thing is the brakes. When we bought it they were great but one day while I had a large load of boulders on going down a relatively steep hill I heard a pop and the brake pedal went to the floor... She picked up speed in no time and I went hurtling down the hill, thankfully I was almost at the bottom when it happened and I coasted to a stop in the clearing at the bottom. We fixed the broken line and went back to work. About a year or so later I was building a retaining wall on a steep driveway. I loaded up the box with large boulders then walked the excavator to the driveway. Not completely trusting the brakes on the truck I dug a bit of a cross ditch and made a mound of dirt to help stop the truck, then put the hoe bucket down behind it as a last resort stop... I started backing down the hill and right at the top again the pop and pedal drop! What happened next only took a few seconds but it felt like for ever! The truck took off like a banshee and pulling the emergency brake didn't do anything except make a cloud of smoke. I thought I'd run the left side into the retaining wall that was already complete hoping the friction would slow or stop me. Not so! The left side of the truck just jumped up on top of the wall and I was now zorching backwards with what seemed like about a 40 degree list to the right! I felt a bump as I went through the cross ditch and mound that I made, of course it didn't stop anything. By now I was wondering why the excavator bucket wasn't stopping me when a loud bang, lurch and crunch took place, stuff went flying all over the truck cab (me included) and everything finally stopped! The excavator bucket and stick were right beside the passenger side window. I had smashed right into the cab of the excavator! Thankfully it had some very stout guarding and aside from a few minor scratches there was no damage done! I climbed out of the truck, cleaned out my shorts and went back to work, I had to unload all the boulders with the excavator, one at a time and do it carefully so the truck wouldn't roll over since it was still half up on the retaining wall. I then gently pushed the truck back up the hill and put it away. So the point of this long rant I guess is to make sure the brakes are good on that truck. They are tough as nails and they just don't quit. I still use ours whenever I need it and it always starts, runs and keeps coming back for more... Good luck with it, you'll love it!
Sorry about the long post...
You'll absolutely love the F600, my dad bought a 1975 model back in the mid 90s, it had been rode hard and put away wet but it still runs great. I don't know how many thousands of loads of gravel, wood, rocks, boulders, etc. I've hauled with it since then. It has the inline 6 engine and a 5 speed with a 2 speed rear end. The biggest issue with this thing is the brakes. When we bought it they were great but one day while I had a large load of boulders on going down a relatively steep hill I heard a pop and the brake pedal went to the floor... She picked up speed in no time and I went hurtling down the hill, thankfully I was almost at the bottom when it happened and I coasted to a stop in the clearing at the bottom. We fixed the broken line and went back to work. About a year or so later I was building a retaining wall on a steep driveway. I loaded up the box with large boulders then walked the excavator to the driveway. Not completely trusting the brakes on the truck I dug a bit of a cross ditch and made a mound of dirt to help stop the truck, then put the hoe bucket down behind it as a last resort stop... I started backing down the hill and right at the top again the pop and pedal drop! What happened next only took a few seconds but it felt like for ever! The truck took off like a banshee and pulling the emergency brake didn't do anything except make a cloud of smoke. I thought I'd run the left side into the retaining wall that was already complete hoping the friction would slow or stop me. Not so! The left side of the truck just jumped up on top of the wall and I was now zorching backwards with what seemed like about a 40 degree list to the right! I felt a bump as I went through the cross ditch and mound that I made, of course it didn't stop anything. By now I was wondering why the excavator bucket wasn't stopping me when a loud bang, lurch and crunch took place, stuff went flying all over the truck cab (me included) and everything finally stopped! The excavator bucket and stick were right beside the passenger side window. I had smashed right into the cab of the excavator! Thankfully it had some very stout guarding and aside from a few minor scratches there was no damage done! I climbed out of the truck, cleaned out my shorts and went back to work, I had to unload all the boulders with the excavator, one at a time and do it carefully so the truck wouldn't roll over since it was still half up on the retaining wall. I then gently pushed the truck back up the hill and put it away. So the point of this long rant I guess is to make sure the brakes are good on that truck. They are tough as nails and they just don't quit. I still use ours whenever I need it and it always starts, runs and keeps coming back for more... Good luck with it, you'll love it!
Sorry about the long post...
Nitelite
Senior Member
Awesome that you mentioned the brakes spitzair. My list of need to dos for the truck is that it has two leaking wheel cylinders. I will rebuild all four and check all of the brake lines for dry rot. At the moment the brakes feel good as far as stopping the empty truck. I just don't think that I could stand a wild ride like you described. Later models have separate front and rear brake systems. Could be that I could change it over to the later system, I think that would be easier than building myself a retaining wall, just in case. lol
mitch504
Senior Member
No, it's probably not. 
Like he said, the worst thing about those old girls is the brakes.
On the other subject, Wow! that is scary. It's amazing that you went into v-fib and got up and went back to work. People can say what they want, but I am thankful for the advances in medical science. Twenty something years ago now, I made a fine powder out of both bones in my right forearm. A surgeon gathered up all those little, (1/4" and smaller) pieces and put them back together. I was out of work for a year and had some loss of function for about 3 yrs, but now it works great, just looks a little wrong. He told me less than 10 yrs before that, nobody would have tried that, they just would have amputated it just below the elbow. Thinking about that still makes me a little queasy.
Keep going as long as you can and you'll probably last longer, unless a hydraulic braked truck gets you.
Mitch
Like he said, the worst thing about those old girls is the brakes.
On the other subject, Wow! that is scary. It's amazing that you went into v-fib and got up and went back to work. People can say what they want, but I am thankful for the advances in medical science. Twenty something years ago now, I made a fine powder out of both bones in my right forearm. A surgeon gathered up all those little, (1/4" and smaller) pieces and put them back together. I was out of work for a year and had some loss of function for about 3 yrs, but now it works great, just looks a little wrong. He told me less than 10 yrs before that, nobody would have tried that, they just would have amputated it just below the elbow. Thinking about that still makes me a little queasy.
Keep going as long as you can and you'll probably last longer, unless a hydraulic braked truck gets you.
Mitch
be careful with a small dump truck like that. it is easy to overload it while moving wet materials, or to sink it and damage driveline components. we started out in 2002 with small trucks like that building our motocross track. learned a lot about offroad trucking and drivers during that time. I would recommend stainless steel braided brakes lines if the original ones become an issue. some hose shops can build some new ones for you.
I commend you for getting out and turning wrenches on your machines. don't care if they are old or not, they still get the job done and bring us some enjoyment. we purchased a 1988 deere 455g last year for 14,500.00 it has 5,400 original hours. previous owner had just gotten the loader back from the repair shop. it received a complete transmission/steering clutch overhaul. also had new turbo, water pump, and alternator in the last 8 years. looks very good in appearance, not beat up or thrashed. doesn't smoke any when started cold, and runs out well, never overheats. paint is faded but overall needs very little. needs sprockets and pins/bushings turned. heck the lights and gauges all work perfectly.
my point is that I felt like I couldn't afford to pass the crawler loader up. I had already purchased a dump truck and skid steer with 8 attachments from the same owner, and all of the equipment was cherry. most folks in the area wouldn't even consider the 455g simply because it wasn't a dozer. which didn't make much sense to me. since we have owned it, we have used it to clean out a pond, push timber alongside my D4c, load trucks when my w20c wasn't around, and lots of other small tasks around our farm. quite simply, a crawler loader is an excellent machine for a small operation. some will say that the tracks are too expensive to maintain, but I would like to argue that a crawler loader will be no more expensive to maintain than some of the current production 90+hp CTL's. definitely would like to see a case study on that topic.
hope you are doing ok healthwise. I currently work with another contractor that is 60 years old, and I am 35. he keeps me very busy and is sharp as a tack. I am holed up in the house with cabin fever due to snow and ice. have a brand new $1400 barn door tailgate kit sitting in the shop and it is too cold to get started cutting on the dump truck.
best of luck with the 951, I hope this thread runs as long as boone's did! that will be neat!
I commend you for getting out and turning wrenches on your machines. don't care if they are old or not, they still get the job done and bring us some enjoyment. we purchased a 1988 deere 455g last year for 14,500.00 it has 5,400 original hours. previous owner had just gotten the loader back from the repair shop. it received a complete transmission/steering clutch overhaul. also had new turbo, water pump, and alternator in the last 8 years. looks very good in appearance, not beat up or thrashed. doesn't smoke any when started cold, and runs out well, never overheats. paint is faded but overall needs very little. needs sprockets and pins/bushings turned. heck the lights and gauges all work perfectly.
my point is that I felt like I couldn't afford to pass the crawler loader up. I had already purchased a dump truck and skid steer with 8 attachments from the same owner, and all of the equipment was cherry. most folks in the area wouldn't even consider the 455g simply because it wasn't a dozer. which didn't make much sense to me. since we have owned it, we have used it to clean out a pond, push timber alongside my D4c, load trucks when my w20c wasn't around, and lots of other small tasks around our farm. quite simply, a crawler loader is an excellent machine for a small operation. some will say that the tracks are too expensive to maintain, but I would like to argue that a crawler loader will be no more expensive to maintain than some of the current production 90+hp CTL's. definitely would like to see a case study on that topic.
hope you are doing ok healthwise. I currently work with another contractor that is 60 years old, and I am 35. he keeps me very busy and is sharp as a tack. I am holed up in the house with cabin fever due to snow and ice. have a brand new $1400 barn door tailgate kit sitting in the shop and it is too cold to get started cutting on the dump truck.
best of luck with the 951, I hope this thread runs as long as boone's did! that will be neat!
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Nige
Senior Member
Scary stuff indeed. You take care, eh. A lot of us here are enjoying your postings of the trials and tribulations of your 951 and maybe doing a bit to try to help you along the way.
Remember that it's the machines that are supposed to break, not you ...........
Remember that it's the machines that are supposed to break, not you ...........
Nitelite
Senior Member
This morning the temperature has come up to 30 f. If it manages to rise to 40 I would like to go out and drop the belly pan on the 951. I need to change the transmission fluid and filter. I also need to change the pick up for the torque converter temp gage. I replaced all of the gages as none of them worked when I got the machine. The belly pan has been welded on so it looks like there will be some grinding to do. I am sure when I get in there I will find something else that will need attention. If nothing else, a good degreasing and cleaning. In any case, I will leave the pan off until I get the coolant leak at the pre combustion chambers repaired. That leak could end up with the cylinder head needing to be removed. If the head does need to come off I would go ahead with an in frame overhaul at the same time.
After spitzair posted his experience and wild ride, the brakes on the old dump truck seem a lot more urgent. I also got a package in the mail yesterday from the previous owner of the truck. He had gathered up all of the parts, new and used, that he had found that were associated with the vehicle and mailed them to me in case I might need them. In the box was a set of wheel cylinder cups, one new wheel cylinder, and a used master cylinder plunger. From all indications the brake situation will become my top priority before I load the first load of muck on the truck. I will also make sure that the parking brake is in good working order. Wheel cylinder cups and rubber brake hoses are relatively cheap and the stainless steel braided hoses that Lindsey 97 mentioned couldn't cost that much more. I expect that the truck will be up on jack stands with all four wheels and brake drums off the first chance that I get. I will be sure and take pictures along the way. I just might consider putting in a runaway truck ramp along the haul route before I get started cleaning out the lake. I think that I might be getting paranoid! More later.
After spitzair posted his experience and wild ride, the brakes on the old dump truck seem a lot more urgent. I also got a package in the mail yesterday from the previous owner of the truck. He had gathered up all of the parts, new and used, that he had found that were associated with the vehicle and mailed them to me in case I might need them. In the box was a set of wheel cylinder cups, one new wheel cylinder, and a used master cylinder plunger. From all indications the brake situation will become my top priority before I load the first load of muck on the truck. I will also make sure that the parking brake is in good working order. Wheel cylinder cups and rubber brake hoses are relatively cheap and the stainless steel braided hoses that Lindsey 97 mentioned couldn't cost that much more. I expect that the truck will be up on jack stands with all four wheels and brake drums off the first chance that I get. I will be sure and take pictures along the way. I just might consider putting in a runaway truck ramp along the haul route before I get started cleaning out the lake. I think that I might be getting paranoid! More later.
DMiller
Senior Member
Not to burst your bubble, I have worked on this series of truck since they were new, actually well before then. Get the wheels off, if the lining is more than 1/2 gone, replace and buy drums same time, cheap investment especially if going to be relying on them. Wheel cylinders, throw the old ones away, if you want go ahead and hone one or two, if there is pitting of any volume inside the bore or if the anodized coating on the pistons is corroded and flaking, throw them away!! Again, cheap at half the cost if you wreck the truck or they constantly leak.
When you bleed them after the work, bleed at the master first, then the Hyvac, then the closest stepping out to each until to the furthest wheel from the booster, that will flush it pretty clear.
The caution on the lining and drums is as this, shoes less than 50% will only last a short time and you will be back into the wheels, new lining /old drums, don't mate up surface to surface for a long time limiting stopping power, glazed drums are the pits for not holding. Old drums turned, look at the inside of turned old drums, you will see hard spots and high domes all over, that is where the steel has work hardened and does not bode well for new linings. New drums/new linings, take it out after you know the adjustment is good and no leaks with a full pedal, take it onto a high speed low travel road and get it up to speed, do a few panic stops up to the point of locking tires, get the brakes seated and hot, let it cools then re-adjust, will hold that adjustment a long, long, long time.
PS, fix the parking brake, they are not that expensive, the block under the tire looks cheesy and works about as well.
When you bleed them after the work, bleed at the master first, then the Hyvac, then the closest stepping out to each until to the furthest wheel from the booster, that will flush it pretty clear.
The caution on the lining and drums is as this, shoes less than 50% will only last a short time and you will be back into the wheels, new lining /old drums, don't mate up surface to surface for a long time limiting stopping power, glazed drums are the pits for not holding. Old drums turned, look at the inside of turned old drums, you will see hard spots and high domes all over, that is where the steel has work hardened and does not bode well for new linings. New drums/new linings, take it out after you know the adjustment is good and no leaks with a full pedal, take it onto a high speed low travel road and get it up to speed, do a few panic stops up to the point of locking tires, get the brakes seated and hot, let it cools then re-adjust, will hold that adjustment a long, long, long time.
PS, fix the parking brake, they are not that expensive, the block under the tire looks cheesy and works about as well.
mitch504
Senior Member
See, Millers do put worthwhile posts on here.
Seriously, DMiller is exactly right.
Seriously, DMiller is exactly right.
DMiller
Senior Member
I worked on trucks just as this one for over twenty years, that among the other minor, major and in between sized PITA's. in those years I did learn what did, what does and what does not work out well. We tried everything for years trying to salvage wheel cylinders or brake drums, most were a waste of time and customer money only to make the customer unsatisfied. Guess I am about the worst for going ahead and spending money but I like working my equipment, not working on it so much anymore.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Got it done!
Ok, by now you should realize that I am not too swift when it comes to diesel engines. The unidentified part, turns out, was the transfer pump. My manual is silent on the pump but I did find the breakdown in the parts manual. Not a bad job and the three seals required were a total of $1.14 and I also used a few o rings out of my assortment.
There was no trouble overhauling the pump but I did learn that the engine has to be rotated as the pump is being removed because of the spiral gearing on the end of the pump. I have not primed the fuel system and checked for leaks yet because I am going to change the fuel filter in the morning. It just got too cold and too dark to continue.
Ok, by now you should realize that I am not too swift when it comes to diesel engines. The unidentified part, turns out, was the transfer pump. My manual is silent on the pump but I did find the breakdown in the parts manual. Not a bad job and the three seals required were a total of $1.14 and I also used a few o rings out of my assortment.
There was no trouble overhauling the pump but I did learn that the engine has to be rotated as the pump is being removed because of the spiral gearing on the end of the pump. I have not primed the fuel system and checked for leaks yet because I am going to change the fuel filter in the morning. It just got too cold and too dark to continue.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Thanks for the reply DMiller and you didn't burst my bubble. Like I said before, I am living a dream.
For twenty years I was a mechanic and worked for Exxon. Before that I worked in a truck shop. I know all about hot spots in brake drums and such.
You can rest assured that I will make sure that the brakes are inspected and repaired so as to be safe for the remaining useful life of the truck. However, I can't justify spending that kind of money on brakes for a vehicle that will never be used on the road again. I will use it here on the farm and I suspect that third and fourth gears will get little use from now on. I expect to hone and rebuild the wheel cylinders if they are re buildable. I think that I will need to clean up the drums and have the old brake shoes relined. I also intend to replace all rubber hoses. The master cylinder has been rebuilt and seems to be solid, the hyvac works ok too. I will also inspect and replace steel tubing as needed.
The load will be up a slight grade and the down hill return will be running empty. The runaway truck cut off still sounds like a good idea. You can also bet that my parking brake will be in good working order. I don't mind working on old equipment. Considering the price of diesel fuel, I don't know that working on the machines cost any more than working with them. I can't wait until spring!
When I get a chance I will post pictures of the lake that is to be drained and cleaned out and the route to the spoil dump site.
If there is no longer a leak at the transfer pump I can remove that blue plastic jug that has been sheading the alternator. Now that is progress.
When I know that the parking brake is adjusted properly and I am convinced that it works as it should, I can also get rid of that chock block at the rear wheels of the dump truck. Until then, it is cost effective and beats no chock at all. LOL : usa
For twenty years I was a mechanic and worked for Exxon. Before that I worked in a truck shop. I know all about hot spots in brake drums and such.
You can rest assured that I will make sure that the brakes are inspected and repaired so as to be safe for the remaining useful life of the truck. However, I can't justify spending that kind of money on brakes for a vehicle that will never be used on the road again. I will use it here on the farm and I suspect that third and fourth gears will get little use from now on. I expect to hone and rebuild the wheel cylinders if they are re buildable. I think that I will need to clean up the drums and have the old brake shoes relined. I also intend to replace all rubber hoses. The master cylinder has been rebuilt and seems to be solid, the hyvac works ok too. I will also inspect and replace steel tubing as needed.
The load will be up a slight grade and the down hill return will be running empty. The runaway truck cut off still sounds like a good idea. You can also bet that my parking brake will be in good working order. I don't mind working on old equipment. Considering the price of diesel fuel, I don't know that working on the machines cost any more than working with them. I can't wait until spring!
When I get a chance I will post pictures of the lake that is to be drained and cleaned out and the route to the spoil dump site.
If there is no longer a leak at the transfer pump I can remove that blue plastic jug that has been sheading the alternator. Now that is progress.
When I know that the parking brake is adjusted properly and I am convinced that it works as it should, I can also get rid of that chock block at the rear wheels of the dump truck. Until then, it is cost effective and beats no chock at all. LOL : usa
d9gdon
Senior Member
Ive had trouble using Wix/Carquest/Napa fuel filters before on these models, I prefer Cat fuel filters. Usually not more expensive either...and I use those non OEM filters on everything else. I dont know what the problem is with them.
Nige
Senior Member
Simple. They're (allegedly) cheap for a reason.