• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Cat 426 Tilt Cylinder Has Bad Leak

R

Rocket Man

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
218
Location
El Paso Texas
Swetz said:
Yes, that is why you had to use a come along. Make sure you loosen or remove prior to the install or it will never go in.

To Nige's point, here is a pick set for $2.00 and it works. I actually have a Snap-on pick set at the house I live at, but have the one linked below where my equipment is. Have used the Harbor Freight picks several times with good results.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks. I too had a snap on set and could not find it so went to HF and got one those cheap ones. They are useful for so many things.
 
T

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,397
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
If you can possibly stand the cylinder on end when you reinstall the rod and piston it is likely that there will be no damage to the piston seals from being dragged over the barrel threads.
An engine hoist is quite handy for doing it that way.
 
R

Rocket Man

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
218
Location
El Paso Texas
Tinkerer said:
If you can possibly stand the cylinder on end when you reinstall the rod and piston it is likely that there will be no damage to the piston seals from being dragged over the barrel threads.
An engine hoist is quite handy for doing it that way.
Click to expand...
I do have an engine hoist but my plans are to keep the barrel attached to the bucket and rested on that sawhorse as in my pics above and push the rod into the barrel in that way. If i need to i can attach the come along to the bucket frame and push the rod in that way. This is so much fun i will probably tackle the one stabilizer that is seeping oil. I never knew rebuilding these things was so easy but thanks to all of you here, i was able to get thru one with no real problems.
 
D

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,904
Location
WI
If you're really into this, go ahead and get the seal installer set, they're not that expensive, and they're fun to use, even if you could do it with your fingers and a wood dowel in most cases. The twisty pliers thing is what I'm thinking of.
 
R

Rocket Man

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
218
Location
El Paso Texas
Delmer said:
If you're really into this, go ahead and get the seal installer set, they're not that expensive, and they're fun to use, even if you could do it with your fingers and a wood dowel in most cases. The twisty pliers thing is what I'm thinking of.
Click to expand...
Alright, new twist here. LOL Did not know they made such a thing. So where can i get one and which ones are best? I try to stay away from the really cheap stuff if i plan to use it more than once or twice.
 
R

Rocket Man

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
218
Location
El Paso Texas
Here is my progress report. All seals went in fairly easily , thanks to all the tips i received here on this forum. The replacement seals barely resembled the ones that came out. The only ones that were identical were the flat split ones. The rest fit but were not identical. The thick one in the middle gave me the most trouble as it was stiff as heck even after warming it up. I finally managed to kind of fold it by squeezing it in the middle and forcing part of it in the groove and then worked the rest in somehow. I was surprised it actually went in. The rest were easy. There is one rubber ring that has to go in a certain way , it was NOT like the one that came out of that slot. Thanks to Nige for the drawing on how it went back and thanks to Swetz for alerting me to the fact that some of them do have a beveled lip that must go a certain way. Otherwise, i would never have seen that bevel.
I had trouble getting the head to slide on the rod. It went on just enough to allow me to attach the piston. Once the piston was attached i shoved the rod into the barrel and it stopped at about 3 to 4 inches in. So i rigged up that come a long system and pressed it the rest of the way in. Reassembled it all, cranked it up and started moving dirt. Hooray.!!
 
R

Rocket Man

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
218
Location
El Paso Texas
Tinkerer said:
A small steel plate works quite well to prevent distorting the seal.
Pound it down until the seal is flush with the top of the gland.
Click to expand...
It is funny but when i pulled the engine sleeves i purchased a wheel bearing puller kit that had the 4 inch round plate that was perfect to pull the sleeves with. The kit had tons of little round discs and other stuff that came with it. I had forgotten about them until i started trying to drive that outer seal in. Then i searched around and found one that was exactly the right size and , like you said, works like a charm.
 
Swetz

Swetz

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,378
Location
NJ/PA
Occupation
Electric & Gas Company
Rocket Man said:
Reassembled it all, cranked it up and started moving dirt. Hooray.!!
Click to expand...

That is great news!! Thanks for the update!! Happy Tractoring!!

This is the u-cup installer I have....there are many others at similar price on e bay, and they do, as previously noted, work like a charm.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223486453439

s-l1600.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top