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Cat 426 Tilt Cylinder Has Bad Leak
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
My seal kit will be here on Monday and i figured now is the time to get more information on re-assembly. Recall i had trouble getting the rod out of the barrel and then the gland nut was hard to remove. This tells me that if these parts which are old and used were that hard to remove THEN putting the new back are gonna be harder?
So question one is how do i put the seals into the nut. It looks like i have to drive the old seals out the front? That metal retainer looks pretty much solid stuck in there. What is best tool to do the driving?
Number two is how do i replace the rod with the new seals on it? It was difficult to get out and i assume with new seals it will be worse to put back. Its gonna take lots of force to put it back? There must be some way to rig up a press of sorts to force it back?
So question one is how do i put the seals into the nut. It looks like i have to drive the old seals out the front? That metal retainer looks pretty much solid stuck in there. What is best tool to do the driving?
Number two is how do i replace the rod with the new seals on it? It was difficult to get out and i assume with new seals it will be worse to put back. Its gonna take lots of force to put it back? There must be some way to rig up a press of sorts to force it back?
edgephoto
Senior Member
Nice job!!!
That gland has had some action. I only had one gland I could not get off on my machine and it was not a Cat cylinder. Must have been replaced at some point. I feel your frustration. It is awesome once it comes apart.
I had one piston bolt I could not get free. I exploded a Snap-On 3/4 drive breaker bar. Tried heat to see if it was the Locitite holding things. My brother has a friend who works in a heavy truck shop. Brought it to them and he had to fire up the trailer compressor and use a 1-1/2" drive impact to get it free.
That gland has had some action. I only had one gland I could not get off on my machine and it was not a Cat cylinder. Must have been replaced at some point. I feel your frustration. It is awesome once it comes apart.
I had one piston bolt I could not get free. I exploded a Snap-On 3/4 drive breaker bar. Tried heat to see if it was the Locitite holding things. My brother has a friend who works in a heavy truck shop. Brought it to them and he had to fire up the trailer compressor and use a 1-1/2" drive impact to get it free.
Nige
Senior Member
A tip for installing rod/head seals is to soak them in boiling water beforehand - all except the steel-cased ones anyway. It makes them more pliable and easier to install.
Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
I had heard that the piston nut would be hard to remove and was very apprehensive about it. Once it was out of the barrel i turned it around and re-pinned it back to the bucket and used a large crescent wrench and 3 foot cheater and it came loose easily on first try. I will replace it with lots of loctite. LOL
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Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
Great idea!! I would never thought of doing that BC water and seals are not a common combination. I will do that but still visualize some trouble getting head back on the rod and rod in the barrel. I am gonna need some kind of press to do that.
Nige
Senior Member
Lots of lubricant and patience. Wrap any exposed threads in duct tape for protection.
Swetz
Senior Member
Be sure to orient the seals in the correct direction. The rod wiper usually has a metal carrier that you tap in with a hammer. The large wiper lip out.
The u-cup seal has an o-ring in a groove. That side will face the oil...As oil pressure builds, it forces the o-ring deeper and seals the rod.
Note orientation of all seals before you remove, even the bearing...there is usually an angle to the way it is cut.
Swetz
Senior Member
Also, for the piston seal, protect it, then put a worm clamp on it the compress it...leave it on till just before you try to insert it...and as Nige said, don't be shy with lube. I use Vaseline, but others work. Vaseline will dissolve into the hydraulic oil the first time it gets warm.
edgephoto
Senior Member
Don't need to use "lots" Loctite. A couple drops is all you need to do it's job. Too much just makes a mess of things. You may need to take this apart again someday.
They slide back together easier than come apart due to the new now flexible seals
Did you crack the hyd lines loose trapped air can fight you A ratchet strap to put a solid pull on while you wiggle it in can help but for a smaller cylinder like that not usually necessary
Did you crack the hyd lines loose trapped air can fight you A ratchet strap to put a solid pull on while you wiggle it in can help but for a smaller cylinder like that not usually necessary
Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
Did not crack that line and in retrospect i can see i should have.
Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
No, i did not and i now realize i should have. That is probably why i could not pull the rod out, had lots of suction.
Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
Ok good idea on that clamp thing. I have some Lucas oil here somewhere and i will use it on the whole thing.
Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
Now this is the kind of tutorial that i need. This will be the one that helps me reassembly that head.
Rocket Man
Well-Known Member
Forgot to ask. Do i drive those seals and metal carriers from the back end? Or just insert the screwdriver from the front and use leverage to pry it out?
Nige
Senior Member
You really need a seal pick to hook the non-metal-cased seals out. Much easier than a screwdriver because it gives you leverage. Something like this.......
Swetz
Senior Member
Yes, that is why you had to use a come along. Make sure you loosen or remove prior to the install or it will never go in.
To Nige's point, here is a pick set for $2.00 and it works. I actually have a Snap-on pick set at the house I live at, but have the one linked below where my equipment is. Have used the Harbor Freight picks several times with good results.
https://www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html