Cat 315 Cl fast travel issues

[jimson]

The fast travel on my 315 will shift to slow intermittently. The problem comes and goes. Seems to happen when the weather is damp and cool. Any ideas?

I posted this back in 2015. I got a few responses but the thread just kind of died. The serial number is CFT00932. Can someone tell me how to identify and where the solenoids are located that control this function. I think I should start by checking wire connections.

Thanks

 

[John C.]

The machine might be functioning normally. When the load on the tracks requires a certain amount of hydraulic pressure, the computer will automatically shift the range into low speed.

 

[jimson]

I suppose it's possible. I really feel like it's something else because I have had it happen on level (sometimes downhill) firm ground with no load on the machine.

 

[John C.]

Do you know how to get into the diagnostics menu to see if you have any fault codes?

 

[jimson]

Thank you for posting the video. I didn't realize I could retrieve codes. It sounds like I need a pass code if one is set. If set I don't know what it would be. I will be around the machine tomorrow evening, I'll give it a try and post the results. Thanks again!

 

[John C.]

I haven't seen any that had a customer pass code set. I think I put in the video that the code for the diagnostics was FFF2 or 9992.

 

[jimson]

Ok so I was able to retrieve the codes:

Active Error 01 of 01
69:1162-03

Logged Error 01 of 05
69:1162-03
Logged Error 01 of 04
69:1162-04
Logged Error 02 of 03
69:167-08
Logged Error 02 of 02
69:588-12
Logged Error 01 of 01
69:1161-04

Logged Event 01 of 04
69:100
Logged Event 02 of 03
69:43
Logged Event 02 of 02
69:15
Logged Event 02 of 01
69:179

I was able to clear all of the Events and Errors. When I went back into the menu after clearing them it looked like the active error was cleared also?

For a while now at start up the monitor has been telling me that the engine oil and coolant level are low. When I manually check both the levels are fine. Thanks for taking a look.

 

[John C.]

The active 1162 code is the pump delivery pressure sensor #2 voltage above normal. That could be part of your problem as it likely is in process of failing. Hopefully someone will be along with a test for that component.
167 code is an alternator abnormal signal.
588 monitor system display, failed component
1161 code is the other pump delivery pressure sensor voltage below normal.

The event codes follow;
69:100, low engine oil pressure, happens when you change engine oil.
69:43, abnormal battery frequency
69:15, High coolant temperature derate
69:179, Abnormal battery charge

 

[heymccall]

Unplug one 3 wire pump sensor. If the 1162 changes to a -4, that's the bad sensor.

If it changes to an 1161-4, it's the other pump sensor bad (or broken wiring).

And the pump sensor is what inputs to the ECM when to autostart out of rabbit travel.

 

[jimson]

The sensors that I need to look at are located on the main pump, will it be obvious which one they are?

I will take a look later today when I'm around the machine. At one time I had a racoon get inside the pump compartment while the machine was sitting on a job next to a corn field. It chewed/scratched the insulation off of the compartment door. I didn't think/see that it damaged anything else but come to think of it this all started around that time. I wonder if he damaged a wire or sensor?

Thanks for the help.

 

[jimson]

Here is what i found. I feel kind of stupid that I didn't catch the damaged wires on my own. All of this is rodent damage.
I owe Nige a big thank you for sending me the schematic.
The first photo is one of the sensors on the pump. The wire was not completely broke. I don't believe that the exposed wire was touching anything. I spliced it back with a non insulated butt connector and heat shrink.
I did not identify the sensor in the second photo. Its near the pump, connected to something that goes under the hydraulic tank. The wire was also badly damaged, repaired in the same manner. The top of the sensor has also been damaged, might be taking on moisture.
What are the chances this could be the problem? Either way it needed repaired.
I ran out of time before I got a chance to try unplugging the wires as recommended but I intend to do that tomorrow.
I also found damaged wires at the coolant level sensor. I didn't find andy problems with the oil level sensor wiring. Maybe a bad sensor?

 

[fastline]

I think heymccall also provided some great info here. Shame on you for not seeing such obvious wiring issues! lol Should be noted that when yo shi& ain't running right, check codes man! Some people are blown away how a seemingly non-related sensor can flip your hair back. I've seen a coolant temp sensor nearly ruin an engine.

As for your repair, I am never really a fan of butt connectors, but sounds like you went at it reasonable. However, it does not sound like you grabbed the glue seal stuff? It has a heat activated glue on the inside and is the only thing I would use for a severe duty repair. If not, I highly recommend a little blue or black RTV on the ends of that shrink. It will eventually get water in, and will never leave. It would take years to show back up, but I take repairs like this serious, so I never have to deal with it again.

My preferred repair on something like this is solder, then conformal coating on all of that, followed by glue shrink. NASA approved....lol

 

[jimson]

Thanks for the advice fastline. I will silicone up the ends of the wires.

Right now there are no codes set since I cleared them all. If I unplug the wires as recommended by heymccall I'm sure it will set a code. It seems to me that I need to run it and see if I can get the fault to occur again, setting a code, then unplug to identify the bad sensor.