Nige
Senior Member
Correct.I also retested and the wiring from the switch to the ecm is working. So unless there is something outside of that simple circuit which affects how the ecm performs….. the ecm is bad. Correct?
Unfortunately it will not work. As you measured earlier, the switch output voltage is: -Could I not take those three wires that run out of the 12 pin connector by the switch, and bypass the ecm with those three completely, just have them run directly to the solenoids?
- 4.04-4.09 in center position
- 1.9 in down position
- 6.28 in up position
So if you hook the switch directly to the solenoids they will both be permamently powered.
If you don't want to go to the expense of replacing the ECM at this time the only possibility is to unpin the wires 40, 42, & 58 from the ECM connector and wire them via some sort of spring-loaded centre biased toggle switch. You would need a 10A fused power supply to the switch, output would be on wire P978-GN for one solenoid and P979-YL for the other. You would need to connect the L998-OR common wire from both solenoids to machine frame ground.And yes I know this is not a fix anyone would probably recommend. I would like to do it in a way that I could easily restore it to factory and replace the ecm down the road but not have to spend $1200 or more right now. Feel free to tell me if I’m totally wrong.
To remove the wires from the ECM connector a Deutsch connector de-pinning tool is required. See this LINK but you can also get them elsewhere. Note that ythese tools are fragile and easy to break if too much force is used.
There are plenty of vides on Youtube showing how they are used. De-pinning the ECM connector and retaining the original pins on the wires means you could refit them if you replaced the ECM at some point.