Cat 226b thumb wheel switch replacement

[Jwhalen123]

Yes thank you I could really use it, I appreciate it.

It’ll be there Friday. 9505 5158 3807 5189 8307 14. If you wanted to venmo $10 for the shipping, that be awesome. My venmo is @Jwhalen123.

 

[Jeffcarvalho79]

It’ll be there Friday. 9505 5158 3807 5189 8307 14. If you wanted to venmo $10 for the shipping, that be awesome. My venmo is @Jwhalen123.

Awesome thank you I will send over now, let me know you got it

 

[Jwhalen123]

Got it. Thank you!

 

[Jeffcarvalho79]

Got it. Thank you!

I just wanted to say thank you again you really saved my butt, I bought the machine not really knowing anything about cat skid steers, Thank you!

 

[Jwhalen123]

No problem! hope it works for you, I was in the same boat not too long ago myself.

 

[Patagonian Cat]

The link to the switch that you originally posted might just work in that case. I was under the impression that they were all PWM-type, but maybe the very early models were Hall Effect. Hopefully someone else can offer an opinion.

Nige is hall efect

 

[Nige]

Nige is hall efect

Yes indeed. I corrected myself later in the thread.
Everything up to the early B-Series models had a Hall Effect roller switch.
From the introduction of the B3-Series machines and all subsequent models the roller switch operation changed to a PWM sensor.

See Post #12 on Page 1.

 

[Helical]

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I was able to diagnose and repair the switch in my Dad's 226B. Cleaning up the remains of the magnet gave some function back, but I ended up getting some diametrical ring magnets (9.5x5x3mm) off AliExpress. Made a tight fit hole in a bit of wood, pressed one in and cut in half with a Dremel and cutting fluid to keep it cool. Then epoxied into the switch. Works like new.

 

[Tyler d4c]

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I was able to diagnose and repair the switch in my Dad's 226B. Cleaning up the remains of the magnet gave some function back, but I ended up getting some diametrical ring magnets (9.5x5x3mm) off AliExpress. Made a tight fit hole in a bit of wood, pressed one in and cut in half with a Dremel and cutting fluid to keep it cool. Then epoxied into the switch. Works like new.View attachment 352865View attachment 352863View attachment 352864

Nice repair

 

[Part-timer]

New guy here. Been reading all this info on thumb wheels, it is a lot to try and understand. Nige, is there any chance you might have a wiring diagram for a 242B. Serial number BXM01499. Would that fall under a hall effect or the PWM? I will have to "volt" out my wires. I have only test lighted them earlier. Will also check magnet in the handle, didn't have a clue what I was looking for before.

 

[Nige]

New guy here. Been reading all this info on thumb wheels, it is a lot to try and understand. Nige, is there any chance you might have a wiring diagram for a 242B. Serial number BXM01499. Would that fall under a hall effect or the PWM? I will have to "volt" out my wires. I have only test lighted them earlier. Will also check magnet in the handle, didn't have a clue what I was looking for before.

Your roller switch should be Hall Effect from everything I can see.

Before disassembling anything, as a first step try testing the voltage on the signal output wire (P996 Green) at the connector under the joystick. Do this with the thumbwheel roller in the centre and then rolled both ways. Report your results.

Electrical schematic on the way. Check your message inbox.

 

[Part-timer]

Mr. Nige, I wish to express my thanks for all your help. The handle was bad. After I got that fixed, then had a line that was bad. Got it all fixed. Can't wait to try it out this weekend, on something-anything. Thank you again.

 

[lawrenceg]

ok well heres the latest update. i got the switch (htwm-1a11a22) from mouser.com. and its not working at all. i connected a dmm to the switch ground and output wires while it was connected to the skidsteer and engine running i have 8v and when i roll the switch to full travel in either direction, i see no change in voltage at all. HOWEVER, i did manage to fix the old switch by replacing the disintegrated magnet with a different magnet. it works in forward and reverse. YAY! it took me a few hours with a dremel tool and a neodydmium, or however its spelled, magnet. i basically had to trim the magnet into 2 tiny square blocks and super glued them in place making sure that both magnets that were facing downward toward the sensor were the same polarity.

do you have any pictures of your fix for the switch because i need to do that same repair.

 

[ethan-d-kincaid]

been lurking here for a few years and finally got around to fixing mine. my hall sensor is working but the classic deteriorated magnet. i bought the diametrically opposed magnet linked before and got some magnetic viewing paper from amazon to ensure i had my poles set up correctly. i decided to go a new route and take out the little roll pin and 3D model the part and print a new one. i had some issues getting that fine of resolution from my pla printer, got a resin printer and tried printing it there but more issues (user error) so decided to go back and model the magnet holder in 2 parts so it could print flat on my bed and then i glued the 2 halves together in the jig (also modeled to keep halves aligned). then got the magnet oriented and glued in and ordered some 1/8" acrylic rod online from amazon and cut to length and glued in the through hole in the jig so that it was centered correctly (part isnt perfectly symmetric based on my measurements). i think it turned out well and getting ready to install and should fix my issue. pics, the fusion 360 file as well as the .STL file for anyone who wants to give this a try, feel free to use or adjust to your needs. thanks!

 

[ethan-d-kincaid]

been lurking here for a few years and finally got around to fixing mine. my hall sensor is working but the classic deteriorated magnet. i bought the diametrically opposed magnet linked before and got some magnetic viewing paper from amazon to ensure i had my poles set up correctly. i decided to go a new route and take out the little roll pin and 3D model the part and print a new one. i had some issues getting that fine of resolution from my pla printer, got a resin printer and tried printing it there but more issues (user error) so decided to go back and model the magnet holder in 2 parts so it could print flat on my bed and then i glued the 2 halves together in the jig (also modeled to keep halves aligned). then got the magnet oriented and glued in and ordered some 1/8" acrylic rod online from amazon and cut to length and glued in the through hole in the jig so that it was centered correctly (part isnt perfectly symmetric based on my measurements). i think it turned out well and getting ready to install and should fix my issue. pics, the fusion 360 file as well as the .STL file for anyone who wants to give this a try, feel free to use or adjust to your needs. thanks!

zip folder with fusion and STL files for anyone who wants to take a look

 

[lawrenceg]

zip folder with fusion and STL files for anyone who wants to take a look

i am going to try this since i have been having trouble with positioning the magnet into the current switch, and i also tried the other 3d printed switch that was mentioned in this forum and that didnt work, i had to open up the hole for the magnet to go into and i had to bevel the corners of the rocker to fit in my sensor part. everything i tried with magnets i got either no response at all or i got some communication one way and constant communication the other direction even in neutral position. i ordered some neodymium Strong Countersunk Ring Magnet 1/2"x1/8 Rare Earth Neodymium 4mm hole, i dont know if the poles are going to work properly or if i have to get different magnets for it to work.

 

[pbd05]

Nice job!