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Case 580SL blown steering hose

highwayghost

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Nov 1, 2019
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315
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Emissions Analyst
Yesterday I had enough of the ongoing upgrades to run the 580 for a bit to make some repairs on the lane. After about one hour of work it blew a steering hydraulic line going to the control valve. It had rubbed though from contact with the frame. I moved it about 75 feet with oil spraying and I got it out of the way to a spot for the repairs. Lost about 3 gallons of oil. What a mess:mad:! There is still plenty of oil in the Hyd. tank. Today I removed the steering control valve and all of the 5 hoses that are attached to it. The valve was leaking and I figured now is a good time to fix it and replace all the hoses. I used the metal caps and plugs I have to seal the removed lines from the hydraulic system. I thought I would start it at idle just enough to raise and lock the boom but there was no hydraulics at the BH Rear control valves. With the two steering lines removed and plugged at the Loader control and the one that returns to the hydraulic filter capped off, will this stop the Rear controls from working?? Nothing was leaking. It ran at idle for about 15 seconds and I shut it down when it would not respond. Hoping that did not cause another problem. Any thoughts??
 
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highwayghost

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Pittsburgh, PA
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Emissions Analyst
OK, so all new hoses and the steering valve kit can in yesterday. I have the service manual and the section on the steering valve rebuild printed out. Did some studying and ready to dig in. Are there any tips or tricks I should know about?? Never did one before and have to admit... am a little nervous.:confused: Lots of little parts in there! It WAS working, just leaking.
 

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  • Case 580 Super L Steering valvel.pdf
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highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
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315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
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Emissions Analyst
HELP!! :( Today it was 70 degrees here and I went after putting the resealed steering valve and hoses back in the 580SL. As stated I was nervous because I worked on a somewhat similar system back in the late 70's. It was a struggle. I thought the repairs on this valve went smoothly and I was 80% confident it would work. I did not go too deep into the valve, just enough to change the seals. The service manual was clear but it did not address the small center hose or the allen wrench port outlined in by squares in the pictures below. These were not on the valve pictured in the manual either. Also no seal was supplied for this port in the seal kit. Part numbers for the seal kit and valve seem correct. Installed on machine and it is not function properly. Seems to need some adjustment but there is nothing in the service manual about adjustment. Has anyone done one of these and knows how to adjust it. Thanks, Roger







IMG_0760.jpg IMG_0761.jpg IMG_0762.jpg IMG_0748.jpg
 

highwayghost

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Pittsburgh, PA
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Emissions Analyst
I have a cd service manual but did not see set up instructions or trouble shooting. I’ll look again. Thanks
 

highwayghost

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Yep, Had that out and new orings from the kit. Re-torqued plug to 100 in/lb. Messed with it today but no luck. Still the same. Looks just like my manual. Notice the manual pics, only has one Allen plug. Mine has two. I guess I'll have to call the factory or dealer. Hope someone there can help. Thanks

BTW.. when I put the steering valve back in the rear hydraulics started working again. There must be a steering priority on it.
 
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highwayghost

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Emissions Analyst
I found a section in the manual on trouble shooting that I had missed before. Actually, it is in there twice. Probably because these are double trouble! Didn't get time to study it yet. I won't be able to get back to it for a while, as I'll be away for work and with the weather..?.. I have the machine tarped over for now. I'm open to any ideas at this point. :( Thanks, Roger
 
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highwayghost

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Pittsburgh, PA
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Emissions Analyst
Yes, #28 relief valve, "Do not remove Factory set" I Have a feeling that may be it. Unfortunately, I had to remove it as it was a source of one leak. Needed a new oring. Pretty simple, not much to it. A spring and cap/Allen plug. Nothing else. Need to figure out how it is reset. I can change things with it but still does not seem correct. As stated it worked before, just leaked, so it should work again if set up right, But how is the million dollar question? Thanks
 
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highwayghost

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Pittsburgh, PA
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Thanks, No hurry, I'll be traveling a good bit for work over the next few weeks. I'll go through the trouble shooting to see where I stand.
 

alrman

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Jun 20, 2009
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QLD Australia
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
The steering relief is adjusted at the inlet section of the loader control valve. (items #7-18)
This is also where the steering priority valve (#2) lives. It is possible that the priority spool was sticking in the bore - thus preventing the pressure going to the loader hydraulics - & now is stuck preventing pressure getting to steering.
However, the steering orbitals are very intricate & if it hasn't been put together correctly - well, it just won't work......

I am assuming your problem is that the steering wheel is heavy & there is no power assist?

580SL LCV inlet section.png
 

highwayghost

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315
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Emissions Analyst
I was very careful when rebuilding the valve and did not dismantle the orbital. I only removed it and replaced the seal (#22) on the end and reinstalled. I have pressure at the steering valve. Felling heavy is one way to put it. When input is added from the steering wheel to the valve to turn right/left it will fight back the opposite direction until the steering wheel is released, allowing it relax and go to a neutral. If that makes sense. o_O Thanks
 
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highwayghost

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Nov 1, 2019
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315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
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Emissions Analyst
Help Please? So any other ideas?? I can't find anything on a commutator that seems appropriate. Is it like a frabisator or a muffler bearing?? :rolleyes: Would air in the valve/lines cause the failure? Hydraulic dieseling?? In hind site I wish I had purged the lines. With 400+ views here, has someone had an experience with a steering valve? The manual has a rebuild section so they must figure they can be repaired. The dealer is $800+ for a new valve and I can't be sure it will fix it. Plan 'B' is somewhat drastic. Thanks
 
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