• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Case 580SL blown steering hose

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Thanks, Was very careful with lines and rebuild. Used colored tie wraps as you can see in the postings. Took pics and videos of line placement with the colored ties before removing. Checked, double checked and triple checked the lines.
 
Last edited:

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Can't turn the steering wheel to stall as the valve will fight back. It seems to me that some sort of check valve in the circuit has failed or an adjustment of some sort that would allow more input pressure from the steering wheel. Just guessing at this point
 
Last edited:

Vetech63

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
6,362
Location
Oklahoma
Well, don’t buy the dealer part unless you have to. Google Charlynn distributors in your area and give them that tag number on your unit. It may save you some money.

There are so many of these orbitals out there and several different types of builds depending on application. I would say at this point you have nothing to lose by going ahead and retracing your previous steps. As long as you have oil flow to the orbital, it should work providing there isn’t leakage in the system. I’m of the opinion you have low flow to the orbital or some type of leakage internally preventing proper operating pressure.

If you can check flow to the orbital with a flow meter would be ideal. At least you would know what you are working with which would lead you in the proper direction.

I will tell you from experience with these. I have in the past attempted to reseal or rebuild 3 of these......with ZERO success.
I pulled plenty of hair out doing this same crap your doing. After the last one, I replace them without a second thought, even if the only issue is leaks. It always ends up being cheaper......and healthier.

If you decide to replace the unit. I would go ahead and tear down your old one. It is a great learning experience you won’t get again.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,342
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Is there any chance that the ball(#10)and / or retainer are not installed correctly ?
Also did you notice in the parts list, item #28 says ---> Do Not Remove.
If you did, :(.
xxxxx-png.208522
?
 

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Thanks, Looking for any and all ideas for when I go back to it. I do plan to retrace all If done, including taking the valve back apart to check.
 

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
I am sure the valve was put together correctly. I was VERY careful and went by the manual to the letter. Those pins, springs and balls are anti cavitation valves. I am thinking that air in the lines may have caused a malfunction in this or some where else. Yes #28 was explained in previous post. I think it's the adjustment they are protecting with that statement. Pulling the valve for repair is a PITA as requires all 5 hoses to be removed at there source and come out with the valve. Install requires a helper to install the bolts from inside the cab while the valve is held in place from the engine compartment. Can't move it so working outside and weather is not very friendly right now. Thanks
 
Last edited:

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
There are so many of these orbitals out there and several different types of builds depending on application.

I would agree that there are many out there and while different variations, I suspect the basic function is the same. That's why I am surprised that there isn't more feedback on this or previous posting on steering valve repair. Do they really have that little trouble??
 

Vetech63

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
6,362
Location
Oklahoma
I would agree that there are many out there and while different variations, I suspect the basic function is the same. That's why I am surprised that there isn't more feedback on this or previous posting on steering valve repair. Do they really have that little trouble??
My experience has been that it’s not cost effective to reseal/rebuild those units......that may be most others feelings on it. The orbitals are very fickle and have to be perfect to operate correctly. There is little room for error.
 

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Your right on the cost effectiveness considering labor rate these days. Parts changing ends up more common than repairing. I don't need this machine right now so it's turning into that learning experience. Education is also expensive! I know, and have a Masters from the University of Hard Knocks:D. Even have the T shirt!!

https://www.teepublic.com/t-shirt/3...ViJ6zCh2h5gt7EAQYAiABEgJKEfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I like a challenge and maybe I can learn and help someone with this down the road. I have a few things to try before I throw in the towel.
 
Last edited:

mikebramel

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
1,612
Location
milwaukee
Its a 5 line... the 5th being a signal line to the priority valve? What do you have at the inlet compared to the signal output when its fighting back? Can you steer with the axle off the ground.. engine off ... engine on
 

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Its a 5 line... the 5th being a signal line to the priority valve? What do you have at the inlet compared to the signal output when its fighting back? Can you steer with the axle off the ground.. engine off ... engine on

Thanks for the reply. I don't have answers to your questions right now and I'll be away for work all this week. I'll do my best to check that next weekend and post what I find. I appreciate the help! Roger
 

old and slow

Active Member
Joined
May 31, 2019
Messages
40
Location
Satellite beach
There are 2 restricted fittings on the steering orbitrol they go to the steering cylinders make sure you did not mix them up, also this is a pass thru orbitrol so fluid from pump passes thru to help power backhoe, or also referred to as power beyond.
 

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Work and the weather have not permitted me to get back to this. Thanks to all, I have a few more ideas to try. Hoping to get back on it a day this week.
 

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
580L hyd.png
580L hyd.png
SO... It's been a while, but I finally had some time to work with this steering some today. It was sugessted to check the steering cylinder for internal bypass and it checks OK. I don't have a flow meter, but with the orbital valve return line off at the hydrauilc filter, RED arrow, the orbital valve is flowing pass through at a reasonable rate without any steering operation. At engine idle, there is not excessive pressure noticed on the open line from the orbital valve draining into a bucket. I suspect low pressure, have a test kit and will do some presure checks after the Holiday. With that line off at the filter, at idle, oil gushed out of the open filtting on the filter housing, 10x the flow rate(and seemingly more pressure) than what is coming from the open orbital valve line. The diagram seems to show a check valve there, RED circle at arrow. Should there be any oil coming from this open fitting of hydraulic filter housing??
I don't think this is the whole problem, but one step at a time. Thanks!
 
Last edited:

old and slow

Active Member
Joined
May 31, 2019
Messages
40
Location
Satellite beach
Help Please? So any other ideas?? I can't find anything on a commutator that seems appropriate. Is it like a frabisator or a muffler bearing?? :rolleyes: Would air in the valve/lines cause the failure? Hydraulic dieseling?? In hind site I wish I had purged the lines. With 400+ views here, has someone had an experience with a steering valve? The manual has a rebuild section so they must figure they can be repaired. The dealer is $800+ for a new valve and I can't be sure it will fix it. Plan 'B' is somewhat drastic. Thanks
Do not know if this machine is the same as my 580D I resealed the orbital just the shaft seal, but pulled all the fittings out to put new rings on. Realized that 2 of them where restricted by design. Reading the manual, I found out the 2 restricted are for the steering cylinders, Found the correct port and everything was good. If I had not noticed them and placed them elsewhere it would have been a nightmare trying to figure it out.The orbital is a pass thru design to allow the steering pump to add to the backhoe function for fluid volume. The little steering cylinders require very little flow. When not steering the flow goes to the backhoe.Check all the basics first.
 

highwayghost

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
315
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Occupation
Emissions Analyst
Realized that 2 of them where restricted by design.

Thanks, I will double check the hose fittings. If they are restricted fittings then they are built right into the original hose ends. The hoses screw right into the orbital, no adapter, makeing the valve a PITA to remove as the 5 lines have to be removed at their origin and removed while still attached to the orbital valve.
 
Top