Case 580K front bucket top pivot ripped out!

[ronzacc]

Question on this photo- FLUID RESERVOIRS

If there is any confusion for anyone reading this thread, #13 is the diesel tank cap (left side) and #14 is the hydraulic.

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I just bought a 580SK and I am trying to learn enough about it to not screw it up. I see this photo, and I learning that both the fuel and the hydraulic oil are in the loader arms.
I see that plainly on this picture. However, my machine has a third reservoir in the middle! What would that be for? It's a black plastic reservoir with a screw on cap. It smells like diesel..would it be connected with the main tank? The writing on the cross tube is gone so I cant tell what this is for.
Thanks in advance!
Ron

 

[Willie B]

.
I just bought a 580SK and I am trying to learn enough about it to not screw it up. I see this photo, and I learning that both the fuel and the hydraulic oil are in the loader arms.
I see that plainly on this picture. However, my machine has a third reservoir in the middle! What would that be for? It's a black plastic reservoir with a screw on cap. It smells like diesel..would it be connected with the main tank? The writing on the cross tube is gone so I cant tell what this is for.
Thanks in advance!
Ron

Brake fluid?

Willie

 

[ronzacc]

storage reservoir on 580

Brake fluid?

Willie

Thanks....but this is a large reservoir...maybe several quarts to gallons. Cant tell for sure...yet.

 

[mhobson]

Is there evidence of grease in the fuel tank? Maybe not. I'm no engineer, but I HATE doing things twice. Removing a 9" long piece of the cross tube would give adequate access to cut, then weld the inner bushing. Putting the cross tube back could be accomplished by cutting a slot 1/4 its circumference. Then 3/4 of the two pipe welds could be accomplished from above on the inside. I think you might make a repair only on one face. The engineer who designed it in the first place didn't think that was enough. We don't know what level of abuse the machine suffered, we do know with the tube intact, it didn't hold. Expecting it to hold with only one face supporting it seems questionable.

Those without good conscience would effect a cosmetic repair, and sell the tractor.

Willie

I take your point Willie but without knowledge of someone with adequate skills or ability I have to find other options, I am not intrinsically a bodger. So I have an alternative suggestion. In its original configuration with the tube welded to the back of the plate and the outside edge welded to the side of the tank the twisting load is transferred to the tube and tank side, but if the plate was just welded to the side of the tank all of the load will be imposed upon the tank and none on the tube. What I propose is to buy a piece of steel billet and take it to an engineering works to make a bush to knock into the end of the tube, by doing this the load will be again imposed both on the tube and tank. Issues here are the elliptical deformity of the end of the tube but if I get the sizes right and with a little lead chamfer it may be worth a try, first though I need to find someone with an inside micrometer I can borrow.

 

[El Hombre]

An inside 'snap gauge' and a dial caliper will work just as well. Lots cheaper, at least in the USA, don't know about France. Then you'll be better tooled up for the next project. And since you're going to make a round plug and then wail on it with a 10 pound sledge hammer to go into an oval tube, the tolerances aren't going to be exactly 'tight'.

You might want to measure the undamaged side to make your plug, I don't know exactly how to fudge measurements from the oval side to come up with the correct round one. But you already knew that....

 

[Tinkerer]

Maybe have a block of steel the with of the inside of the tank machined. Cut the entire top off of the tank and weld it in after you have both sides set up with the cross rod in place. Should be do able with careful measuring before welding.

 

[mhobson]

Maybe have a block of steel the with of the inside of the tank machined. Cut the entire top off of the tank and weld it in after you have both sides set up with the cross rod in place. Should be do able with careful measuring before welding.

That again is well out of my abilities and if I could find someone to do it here, it would cost an arm and a leg. I am ordering a piece of 90mm dia steel billet, then having a 45mm hole machined in the centre and having the outside diameter reduced to about 87mm, (still not finalised) having a small chamfer on the leading edge. The fuel tank side is only 5 mm plate but the cross tube has 8 mm walls and I think here is where the majority of the load is imposed and I think it will be difficult to force it round again. When the bush is ready I plan on tapping it gently into the hole with the pivot shaft in place and starting walloping it in with a heavy tube around the pivot shaft. If it starts making progress I plan on putting the pivot plate on the shaft and using it as a drift until it is flush with the tank side, then grooving and welding around the plate. That is the plan, but we all know about what happens to the plans of mice and men!

 

[Willie B]

I know little of mouse plans. Pinky & the brain? Men plans are subject to change. Good luck.

Willie

 

[hosspuller]

Consider a small burr can stop a 50 ton press pushing a shaft through a pulley. I think you'd be better served by clearing the hole to the size of your billet. I say "clearing" since line boring seems out of your league. Perhaps a mandrel wrapped with abrasive cloth, spun by a drill motor might serve.