mhobson
Well-Known Member
I recently noticed that the left hand top loader pivot plate has completely ripped out, there are a few marks around the left, is this a known problem?
How do I attach photo's?
How do I attach photo's?
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Case 580K front bucket top pivot ripped out!
- Thread starter mhobson
- Start date
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Willie has am easy to read and understand guide here . ---->https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?21903-How-to-add-pics-to-forum-posts
Willie B
Senior Member
Dunno, I've had two. Never heard of such a problem.
Willie
Willie
mhobson
Well-Known Member
I have tried to get to the advanced page but unsuccessful, whether I click the reply button at the top or bottom, have resized photo's ready
mhobson
Well-Known Member
Case 580K front bucket pivot ripped out
Seems I can post pictures with Windows, not Android
Top picture right pivot, bottom picture left pivot
Seems I can post pictures with Windows, not Android
Top picture right pivot, bottom picture left pivot
El Hombre
Senior Member
Are you doing some kind of working with the bucket puts most of the load on the left side, like miles of ditch cleaning? Otherwise it's just a welding failure when they put the pin boss in the arm; it happens.
mhobson
Well-Known Member
I don't do a lot of work with it, I am semi-retired, I imagine the problem may have been from doing grading, I don't use it much as a loader, most of the use is with the back actor or back hoe as you say in thd US
Willie B
Senior Member
Not a simple fix either, as that is the fuel tank. I'd bet shock load from bulldozing caused it. Maybe a bad weld. Neither of mine did that.
Willie
Willie
El Hombre
Senior Member
Case puts the loader arms on the fuel tank? Somehow I don't think that's a good idea or true. But what do I know. I'm a Ford guy and Ford doesn't do stuff like that....
Willie B
Senior Member
Tags
Senior Member
I'm not 100% sure but I think Ford used to use the loader towers for the hydraulic fluid.....
mhobson
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately you are correct, the chassis is the diesel tank, the level rising to behind that plate. What I hope to do is to get the plate back in position, it should fit in the hole, drain the fuel then run a hose into the fuel filler and fill the tank with mig welding argon/CO2 gas. Being heavier than air it should displace the air inside and restrict combustion. Well that is the theory, we will see!
Yes, that will work. Additionally you could rinse the tank with hot water to remove as much residue as possible, then fill it halfway with cold water.
You are going to grind that plate back a bit so you have some room to weld, right? And do the other side while you're set up, see that cracked paint at the same spot on the weld? and isn't that a small diesel leak too?
You are going to grind that plate back a bit so you have some room to weld, right? And do the other side while you're set up, see that cracked paint at the same spot on the weld? and isn't that a small diesel leak too?
Billrog
Senior Member
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Left on the one I had was hydraulic fluid and fuel was on the right. I think the other side looks good. Prying out a stump or something with the corned of the bucket may have created this problem. The break looks clean so getting back in place and welding it up shouldn't be to difficult. I think Co2 is a good idea but then what do I know 
).
).mhobson
Well-Known Member
There is no wet spot there as I only ever fill the digger quarter full, it has never got that high since I owned it, however losing the plate on the other side is likely to have caused stress flexing and the lines around part of the edge may be the start of a fissure so I will get a bead of weld around that side as well.
mhobson
Well-Known Member
I have checked and it is quite dry, as I said the chassis is the fuel tank and normally the level is contained witnin the lower chassis members, two feet below the level of the hole. It may just be a bad photo, there is a bit of mould around there. By the way before I bought the digger 6 years ago it was used on a 1000 hectare (2250 acre) arable farm owned by a department senator, I don't know what it was used for. It has done 9300 hours. I have used it for digging a 600 sq metre pond, digging and clearing ditches, pulling rocks from the fields, levelling ground and moving tree trunks.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Willie B
Senior Member
My neighbor asked me to borrow my tractor. Before the 580K, a Utility farm tractor with loader. He had some boulders to move. 1/2 hour later I heard what sounded like a demolition derby. I walked down to witness him driving low gear, full throttle banging into a two ton boulder mostly buried in the lawn. My words were not pleasant.
People do stupid things with machinery. We have to fix them.
The weld won't be simple, the cheapest gas would be nitrogen, but if you have 25% it'll work fine. Remove the fuel fill cap. Remove the fuel plate at the bottom of the tank, and use it to bring in the gas. Fill around the hose with more fiberglass. I don't think argon is heavier than air.Put a wad of fiberglass insulation in the filler neck also to allow slow flow of shielding gas. It needs a lot of grooving out. The break is not in the weld, it's beside it. If you aren't a skilled welder, hire one. This weld is important. I'd treat it like a pipe weld. Grind a 90 degree angle groove, with a land equal to the diameter of your filler rod. Then grind a gap also equal to filler rod diameter.
6010 3/32 run reverse polarity would be my choice of first pass filler. After that I might MIG. Purists would say that's wrong, 7018 is better.
It's critical that this be exactly in the correct place, and angle. Before any grinding, I'd suggest adding three bolted in place holders. To make these take two short pieces of 1/4" x 3/4" flat bar. Drill a hole in each. Bolt them tightly together. Repeat this twice more. Weld at three points around the break, one half of each to the frame, the other half to the broken out pin boss. Now you can grind the groove you need without losing the exact location it needs to be.
After tacking it up, cut off these pieces.
Good luck. You need it.
Cleaning the gunk from the tank is near impossible. Do your best, then add another fuel filter ahead of the primer pump. You want it accessible cause it'll need to be changed often.
Get good at it, you then have to do the other side.
Willie
People do stupid things with machinery. We have to fix them.
The weld won't be simple, the cheapest gas would be nitrogen, but if you have 25% it'll work fine. Remove the fuel fill cap. Remove the fuel plate at the bottom of the tank, and use it to bring in the gas. Fill around the hose with more fiberglass. I don't think argon is heavier than air.Put a wad of fiberglass insulation in the filler neck also to allow slow flow of shielding gas. It needs a lot of grooving out. The break is not in the weld, it's beside it. If you aren't a skilled welder, hire one. This weld is important. I'd treat it like a pipe weld. Grind a 90 degree angle groove, with a land equal to the diameter of your filler rod. Then grind a gap also equal to filler rod diameter.
6010 3/32 run reverse polarity would be my choice of first pass filler. After that I might MIG. Purists would say that's wrong, 7018 is better.
It's critical that this be exactly in the correct place, and angle. Before any grinding, I'd suggest adding three bolted in place holders. To make these take two short pieces of 1/4" x 3/4" flat bar. Drill a hole in each. Bolt them tightly together. Repeat this twice more. Weld at three points around the break, one half of each to the frame, the other half to the broken out pin boss. Now you can grind the groove you need without losing the exact location it needs to be.
After tacking it up, cut off these pieces.
Good luck. You need it.
Cleaning the gunk from the tank is near impossible. Do your best, then add another fuel filter ahead of the primer pump. You want it accessible cause it'll need to be changed often.
Get good at it, you then have to do the other side.
Willie