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Case 580k basket case project!

Ando

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
191
Location
Australia
Occupation
Proprietor - 5 Star Contract Services
I picked up my "new" Case 580k (Phase 1) today! It's about a 1987 vintage, going off the date stamp on the radiator. The ID plate in the ROPS is corroded and illegible. I've created this thread to chart progress in the rebuild and will post photos when I can.

I actually had one of those "oh sh*t, what have I done" moments, when I did a thorough inspection at home.
I've found alot of little (well, maybe not so little) bits and pieces that need doing, apart from the BIG jobs, I was aware of when I purchased the unit.

First up, was to remove the radiator, to take in for a flush and pressure check.
When I test-drove the machine, I noticed that the bottom radaitor hose was sucking in. It doesn't look like there is a thermostat in the engine, so I'm assuming that the radiator is blocked.

The radiator was full of very sludgy looking water and had a slight diesel odour(hmmm, smells expensive) Any tips??
 

bill onthehill

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
661
Location
pa/ny border
Compression test for blown head gasket. If it is like my 580K most stuff is annoying but just takes a lot of labor to fix. The plastic parts are crazy expensive but it sure is nice to have windows that stay closed in the winter. Lot of little electrical bugs but most can be tracked down. Recommend you pull the floor pans and clean everything from the top down. It makes working on it a lot easier.
 

Ando

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
191
Location
Australia
Occupation
Proprietor - 5 Star Contract Services
Cheers Bill, I have spoken to a tech at Cummins who will lend me a compression test kit. He also mentioned that the injectors have a copper ring on the bottom, that may be shot.

I have a 3000psi water blaster lined up for the weekend and will pull the floor pans as suggested. Everything is covered with muck, as the machine is originally from a cattle feedlot.

The wiring on the machine has been completely bypassed (previous owner started it with a screwdriver...LOL) Instrumentation is smashed/faulty, I read another thread where a bloke changed out the standard electronic gauge panel and replaced it with aftermarket gauges. I think I'll do the same.
 

bill onthehill

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
661
Location
pa/ny border
Cattle feed lot!! Oh my! yes you definitely will want to clean it up real well with a pressure washer. Overall they are a good tough machine. Mine is 4x4 with x-hoe and it has served me well. good luck with it.
 

Ando

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
191
Location
Australia
Occupation
Proprietor - 5 Star Contract Services
A bit more progress today after work.

Removed fuel pump, which had a broken actuator arm. The bloke from Cummins reckons he has a good secondhand one I can have. I will also get a new sump gasket as I will remove the sump to retrieve the broken lift pump part.

The fuel in the oil could be a symptom of a couple of things
-injector copper seating rings are stuffed
-dirty bucket used for filling the radiator ...LOL
-corrosion in the engine block from using bore water to fill the radiator (we're hoping that's not it)
I will have the radiator back later this week and will use a block/radiator flush product to remove the diesel and any calcium build-up in the system. The radiator bloke also suggested installing a sock to catch any crap floating around in there!

Sorted out all the filter numbers and purchased same from our local supplier.
FYI- filters approx $180 AU

Engine oil filter Baldwin BT595
Inline fuel filter Baldwin BF1173
Primary fuel Baldwin BF1280
Fuel filter Baldwin BF 788
Inner air Baldwin PA2360-FN
Outer air Baldwin PA 2487
Hydraulic oil Baldwin BT8850-MPG

RH front kingpin has no, that's right,NO bearings in it and has been used like that for a while. My new kingpin kit is on the way. Hopefully the axle will not be too worn in the bearing seating area, still gotta pull that apart yet. I have some Eutectic 244 Cast iron electrodes and an adjustable reamer handy, just in case.

Progress pics to come soon.......

Bill, the proximity sensor and anti-rollback rod is missing on my machine.
Is the return to dig function necessary?
I am trying to track down a secondhand anti-rollback rod...no luck so far. If I can't get one I will fabricate it.
 
Last edited:

bill onthehill

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
661
Location
pa/ny border
The return to dig is a luxury item.mine does not work but I just use the tab on it as a visual and it works for me. All my older equipment never had one so I am used to it. I have run track loaders with it and it was nice to have. The front end would be my biggest worry. How is your front axle pivot? A lot of guys skip greasing them and They wear and get sloppy.
 

Bartlanz

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Joined
Oct 25, 2008
Messages
93
Location
New Boston NH
Occupation
Field Service Engineer
Given that you are going through what I did with my 580k I will provide you a link that was given to me rescently and has good prices on some parts... www.brokentractor.com

I know when I went through and did all the filters on my beast, i spent over $300 I think for just the filters... I know that trip was like $700+ total but there was alot of oil, and other small parts that they put the screws to you on.

The return to dig isnt needed, but I like it, it makes it so you can just smack the controll lever to the left and it will go back to ready to scoop, i use it mostly when doing snow with mine.

I look forward to your progress, as I have spent countless hrs working on my 580k. Good luck, and lots of good people here to answer your questions!
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,400
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Hey Ando, I noticed you said the ID tag was trashed, did you ever find your machine serial number? Case stamped the S/N on the frame of the machine as well.
 

Bartlanz

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Joined
Oct 25, 2008
Messages
93
Location
New Boston NH
Occupation
Field Service Engineer
Hey Ando, I noticed you said the ID tag was trashed, did you ever find your machine serial number? Case stamped the S/N on the frame of the machine as well.

Atco, your not the first person who has said that... WHERE? My tag is trashed too, and I have been looking all over for the one on the frame to no avail!
 

willie59

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Dec 21, 2008
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13,400
Location
Knoxville TN
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Service Manager
It's been a while since I worked on one, Alrman might know for sure. I'm thinking it was on the ouside of the machine frame, on the left side, underneath cab. Sort of where you step up in the cab from the left side. Can't remember for sure. I think the US versions started with something like JJG------. Hope that helps a little. :)
 

Bartlanz

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Oct 25, 2008
Messages
93
Location
New Boston NH
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Field Service Engineer
i'm pretty sure the jjg vs just numbers is the diff between series 1 vs series 3 but i looked where you described, i had a tag there and thats the one that got ruined by the guy who blasted my machine when i had it painted...
 

willie59

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Dec 21, 2008
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Knoxville TN
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Service Manager
i'm pretty sure the jjg vs just numbers is the diff between series 1 vs series 3 but i looked where you described, i had a tag there and thats the one that got ruined by the guy who blasted my machine when i had it painted...

Now that you mention it, I believe your right, that's where the ID tag is. But, I'm darn certain that s/n is stamped in the frame, just don't remember where. Call your Case dealer, they should be able to tell you where it is. Just a wild thought in my head, can't say it's correct, try raising the hood and look on the top of the frame rail right around the area of hood pivot.
 

Ando

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
191
Location
Australia
Occupation
Proprietor - 5 Star Contract Services
I'll check out the front axle pivot point and look for an ID plate once I blast some of the cow****, rust and grease off, on the weekend.

I'm shopping around for seal kits for the loader at the moment, theres a difference of up to 20% between suppliers.
The local Case bloke is giving me a price too, although he asked for the # off teh gland nut to ID the loader cylinders.
Loader lift cylinders #G108486 806 (1.5" rod)
Loader bucket cylinders #G108478 807 (1.75" rod)
 

Ando

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
191
Location
Australia
Occupation
Proprietor - 5 Star Contract Services
A few pics.

1. ain't she a peach!! LOL
2. radiator removed and set off for check and flush
3. 580k arriving home

Just ordered my kingpin and seal kits for the loader. Picking up a replacement fuel lift pump and new oil pan gasket this arvo.
The kingpin in the RHS at the moment has no bearing cups:eek: so hopefully the new ones will go in alright. If not, I have some Eutectic 224 electrodes and a tapered reamer to refurb the axle.
 

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Bartlanz

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Joined
Oct 25, 2008
Messages
93
Location
New Boston NH
Occupation
Field Service Engineer
Umm... your K is looking different than I would expect... Or the K's in Oz are diff than the K's in the US... The boom/dipper on yours looks like its from an E and whats with the clevis points on the top of the loader towers?

hmmm maybe you have the frame option that has the bolt on BH... I've never actually seen one of those...

Either way, She is a beauty! Did you get the hood by chance?
 

Ando

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
191
Location
Australia
Occupation
Proprietor - 5 Star Contract Services
Yeah mate, I've ID'd the hoe as the same as is usually on the super E.
Unfortunately I didn't get a bonnet or grille.
 

Phil

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May 2, 2005
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1,067
Location
Southeastern Ontario
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retired operator and mechanic
Sounds like you don't have a hood. They are hard to find used and made up of several pieces, all expensive. Maybe a custom hood is the way to go. I think I can see several snakes in the long grass and crocs in the bush waiting for a bite:D. Phil
 

Ando

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
191
Location
Australia
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Proprietor - 5 Star Contract Services
Yeah Phil, I'm trying hard not to get bitten!! As suggested, a custom hood assy. is on the cards. A bit of 1/16" plate should do the job.
 
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