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Case 580 Shuttle Drive Problem (Long Read)

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
I didn’t do anything with the torque converter since it seemed to be fine in reverse.

I’ll see what the pressures that I wrote down tomorrow but I think I was getting them from the wrong location.
I have it all back together so I am planning on putting it back in and try doing the pressure readings from the other port.
 

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
The pressures I recorded after I rebuilt it were:

1) 80 psi
2) 145 psi
3) 80 psi
4) 145 psi
5) 75 psi
6) 145 psi
7) 28 psi
8) 28 psi
9) 28 psi

The pressure before rebuilding were:

1) 70 psi
2) 130 psi
3) 55 psi
4) 130 psi
5) 65 psi
6) 140 psi
7) 25 psi
8) 25 psi
9) 23 psi

Tests #1-6 were done by removing plug# 13 which I think is incorrect.
 

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
I put the shuttle back in. Things have gone from bad to worse! I have no forward or reverse now!

I connected the pressure gauge to plug# 24 on the Cover which i think is connected to the same as Plug# 12 but I have zero pressure.

I connected to Plug # 13 and I have about 90 psi at idle and about 140 psi at full throttle. Does not change in Forward, Neutral or Reverse.

Help!
 

JL Sargent

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Jul 15, 2018
Messages
843
Location
Alabama
Man, I hate it for you. Wish I knew something about that machine. You didn't accidentally knock it out of gear? Might be something simple.
 

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
I wish and hope it’s something simple but I doubt it. I’m hoping for some of the experts on here to be able to unscrew me!! This shouldn’t be this hard!
 

alrman

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Messages
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Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
All I can say is charge pump & control valve -

Really need to see some pics of that pump - dismantled....
You haven't answered the earlier question about how the plunger feels on the control valve.....
You need to dismantle the control valve & check the regulator piston & spring.
 

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
All I can say is charge pump & control valve -

Really need to see some pics of that pump - dismantled....
You haven't answered the earlier question about how the plunger feels on the control valve.....
You need to dismantle the control valve & check the regulator piston & spring.

The Control Valve plunger moves in to a point and then you can feel it depressing something else, it goes another 1/8-1/4" more before it has a positive stop. Not sure if this makes sense.

I can take lots of pictures when I have it apart again.

Do you know if I should have any pressure at Pipe Plug# 24?
 

alrman

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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
The service manual only gives 2 x test port locations.
You need to get that tight plug out when you next remove the shuttle.

I would imagine #24 would only measure Reverse or Lube
 
Last edited:

JedCase580SE

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Messages
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Location
Virginia
The service manual only gives 2 x test port locations.
You need to get that tight plug out when you next remove the shuttle.

I would imagine #24 would only measure Reverse or Lube

I tried with every size Allen wrench I could find but no luck. I then tried special easy outs for Allen plugs and they wont budge it. I was even using heat on it and no success, I think the only thing left would be to drill it and re-tap it and I didn't want to do that unless I completely disassemble the housing. Since it is such a small plug and it is pipe thread, unless I can set it up in the drill press it will be hard to drill it and tap it straight.

I blew air thru plug #24 and it seemed like it came out of the hole that would be going up toward the #12 plug and out a hole where the Control Valve is.
 
Last edited:

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
The service manual only gives 2 x test port locations.
You need to get that tight plug out when you next remove the shuttle.

I would imagine #24 would only measure Reverse or Lube
 

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JedCase580SE

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Is test Port #1 supposed to be plug#13 (3/8” NPT) or plug #12 (1/8” NPT)?

Thanks
 

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alrman

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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
I took a look into a different service manual (580C) to see if was clearer as to which plug is port #1 & it is -
it's definitely the 3/8" plug #13.
 

JedCase580SE

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I guess this is good because I get actual pressure readings from the 3/8" #13 Plug. Now the problem is that nothing changes in Forward or Reverse. Pressure is about 90 psi at idle and 140 psi at full throttle.

At least I don't need to worry about getting #12 Plug loose or out.
 

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
All I can say is charge pump & control valve -

Really need to see some pics of that pump - dismantled....
You haven't answered the earlier question about how the plunger feels on the control valve.....
You need to dismantle the control valve & check the regulator piston & spring.

Since I am seeing 140 psi at max RPMs does that mean the Charge Pump is ok?
 

JedCase580SE

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
57
Location
Virginia
Find where those solenoid wires are and check the ends of them for making contact. Floor cutout switch been ruled out as a problem ?
Not a linkage problem ? Going fully into forward position ?

I removed the solenoid completely and it didn’t change anything. Right now I have no movement Forward or Reverse.
 

alrman

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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Since I am seeing 140 psi at max RPMs does that mean the Charge Pump is ok?

Technically speaking, yes..... but pressure doesn't always indicate good oil flow.

I removed the solenoid completely and it didn’t change anything. Right now I have no movement Forward or Reverse.

The transmission wont drive unless the plunger is depressed.

MAKE SURE THE WHEELS ARE OFF THE GROUND & 4SP TRANSAXLE IS IN NEUTRAL
KEEP YOUR BODY PARTS WELL CLEAR OF WHEELS IF YOU TRY DEPRESSING THE PLUNGER BY HAND WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING
 

JedCase580SE

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Technically speaking, yes..... but pressure doesn't always indicate good oil flow.



The transmission wont drive unless the plunger is depressed.

MAKE SURE THE WHEELS ARE OFF THE GROUND & 4SP TRANSAXLE IS IN NEUTRAL
KEEP YOUR BODY PARTS WELL CLEAR OF WHEELS IF YOU TRY DEPRESSING THE PLUNGER BY HAND WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING

Ok I will try depressing the plunger and see if anything changes.

Is the next thing to remove it again or anything else to look at?

Thanks
 

alrman

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If you have not yet inspected the regulating piston & spring in the control valve, the control valve can be removed from the housing without removing the entire shuttle.

**TIP - Just make sure you don't drop the detent ball into the hole created by removing the oil filler tube & fitting.....
 

JedCase580SE

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Location
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If you have not yet inspected the regulating piston & spring in the control valve, the control valve can be removed from the housing without removing the entire shuttle.

**TIP - Just make sure you don't drop the detent ball into the hole created by removing the oil filler tube & fitting.....
I guess I will pull it and see if I see anything a miss and then the next thing will be the whole Shuttle.
 

tractormech

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Feb 19, 2015
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Location
florida
Not trying to hijack the post but you said you heated the plug and it wont come out. do you have a cutting torch to do that or a propane torch? You need good heat. Get the biggest Torx bit you think you can drive in the allen socket hole.with a hammer. Heat the plug itself red hot and drive the Torx in it and wiggle it back out. As soon as the plug quits glowing red drive the bit back in and try to take it out. I bet it will give up then. Good luck.
 
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