CASE 440CT Track Tensioner Valve & Grease Zerk

[CASE440CT]

Grease was leaking past and through my grease zerk at the end of my track tensioner valve. I replaced it several times, but that didn't fix it. Then I replaced my entire track tensioner valve, which came with a new grease zerk installed too. The new valve leaks grease past and through the grease zerk just the same as the old one.

I had recently done some work that I had to remove my track for, and I removed my old track tensioner valve completely before I performed the work. Is there a spring and ball-bearing in front of the valve that may have fallen out or something? If so, I can't locate it in any of the parts diagrams that I've reviewed and can't seem to find anybody knowledgeable enough to help me out.

Can anyone please help me out? Tell me what other parts I may need to replace, or at least what the culprit is?

Thanks in advance

 

[DIYDAVE]

Have you checked your grease gun tip, for wear? I had several guns, and I upgraded the tip to a lock-n-lube tip, man, the difference was like night and day... Also, the zerks, themselves can get dinged and wear out, too...

 

[GaryHoff]

There is no additional parts other than the grease valve that you removed. Its likely that your grease gun tip is worn out. If your tip is ok, then your track may be too tight, or the tensioner may be bent or seized.

 

[CASE440CT]

The valve and zerk are both brand new. The zerk takes grease just fine from my grease gun. It leaks grease when I drive my machine, and even slowly when it's parked. My tensioner isn't seized and I don't believe it's bent or damaged. I pump it up until the track is at the proper tension, and after a small amount of light use, my track is loose to the point that it could fall off if I really got aggressive with my machine. Is the grease zerk the only thing that holds the grease pressure? Or, is there another mechanism inside the valve, like a ball and spring? Thanks.

 

[GaryHoff]

Your additional information tells me that your tensioner seals are leaking. Your track tensioner rod was probably pitted, and when you retracted it to remove your track, the seals got damaged. You should replace or rebuild your track tensioner. (probably cheaper to replace than vs rebuild)

 

[CASE440CT]

I won't disagree with the leaking seals, but would that cause grease to leak by and through the valve grease zerk it's self? I'd think damaged seals would leak grease up under the track, where I can't see it. I can visibly see where grease is leaking out around the outside of the zerk, and through the hole in the grease zerk nipple.

 

[jacobd]

Does actual solid grease come out around/through the zerk or does it just make a wet spot? Is it possible the liquid is separating from the solid part of the grease and leaking out? Or maybe something's causing it to melt and run out? Strange that it would still leak with a brand new fitting.

 

[CASE440CT]

It is leaking straight grease around and through the zerk. Nothing in that area is heating up. Actually, just the opposite. I store my machine in my garage (around 45-50 degrees), and have been running it in temps between -14 and +20 degrees. I would think the same, that with a new valve and zerk, grease shouldn't be leaking past/through. Is there a better leak proof / free zerk that I can replace mine with?

 

[JNB]

The original and replacement tensioner zerk on my old TR320 leaked just like you described. I purchased a pack of zerks from Harbor Freight and after a few leakers got one that worked.

 

[GaryHoff]

The zerk isn't what holds in the pressure of the track tensioner. The tensioner fitting has a check ball in there, and that is what holds the pressure of the track tensioner. If you are sure that all your grease is leaking out of the greaser zerk, then you may have another bad tensioner fitting.

Also, are you using a air greaser to fill your track tensioner? Some air greasers have too high of a grease flow, and will damage your track tensioner fitting.

 

[CASE440CT]

Well crud. Like I said, the valve is brand new, so I'd like to think that it isn't bad right out of the factory, but maybe. I am not using an air greaser, just a manual hand pump, hydraulic piston driven grease gun. So, the grease input flow shouldn't be too high for the tensioner fitting to handle. I'll take the valve out, clean it up and examine it. I'll buy a few new grease zerks as well, and go from there. If I can stop the visible grease from leaking out, and the tracks continue to loose tension, then at least I know it's leaking somewhere out of sight, (seals), and address that accordingly. I don't want to repair or replace anything that doesn't need it. Thanks everyone for your feedback.

 

[CASE440CT]

Your additional information tells me that your tensioner seals are leaking. Your track tensioner rod was probably pitted, and when you retracted it to remove your track, the seals got damaged. You should replace or rebuild your track tensioner. (probably cheaper to replace than vs rebuild)

GaryHoff, I'll have some time this weekend to further extract and examine the entire track tensioner unit. I can buy a replacement rod and service kit, or service kit alone, for quite a bit cheaper than I can an entire track tensioner. What's your reasoning behind recommending a replacement over rebuilding? If I find my seals are leaking, what are your recommendations for purchasing from the list below? Thanks in advance.

Track Tensioner - 47378991 - $315 New or $150 Used (2013). Entire unit, including valve.
Rod - 87602988 - $42 New.
Service Kit - 87602987 - $29 New. Includes - Scraper, Spacer & O-Ring.

 

[GaryHoff]

No real reason to replace vs rebuild, sometimes a new unit is cheaper than rebuilding. In this case it would seem that its cheaper to rebuild.

You will have to inspect the rod, to see if its suitable for re-use. If its pitted or scored you will have to replace.

 

[DIYDAVE]

I would still examine the fitting, carefully, if you haven't gone over it thoroughly. Make sure its not leakin through the threads of the fitting. Sometimes threads get wore out, and allow grease to escape through. Sometimes the hole has a burr that keeps the fitting from seating tight. Sometimes its a bad fitting that leaks through the check ball. A bad hole can be drilled bigger, and rethreaded to the next size up fitting, or welded shut, and re-drilled, once that has been eliminated, yes it looks like a rebuild is cheaper...

 

[CASE440CT]

I forgot to mention that this is my personal machine, that I don't make money with, so I'm usually the mechanic on it and try to fix everything as economically as possible. I've ordered a new rod and seal kit, and will rebuild my leaky tensioner as soon as I receive them. I'll post my results when I'm done. Thanks to all!

 

[CASE440CT]

So, this post is old now, and I never returned after I got my issue fixed. A new grease zerk along with a new rod and seal kit fixed my issue. Now, I'm blowing grease out the seal on the other side. I've replaced the rod and seal kit, but am still leaking grease out the seal. I've got a really stupid question, but one that I can't find an answer for... I didn't pay attention to the order of the spacer and the O-ring when I took it apart. Working inward, the scraper obviously goes first, (on the outside), but then what order do the spacer and O-ring go in?

Does it go scraper, spacer, O-Ring (on the inside), or does it go scraper, O-ring, spacer?

I think I have my spacer and O-ring reversed on my rebuild, (scraper, O-ring, spacer), allowing it to leak grease. I greased the new rod up well before inserting it, as not to damage my new seal kit, and it's been leaking grease from the moment I started using it again after I reassembled everything. Thanks in advance,

 

[CASE440CT]

OK, so I finally got someone to provide me with a different and better diagram, that actually lists out the order. It turns out, the O-ring goes on the very inside. Then the spacer ring, and finally the scrapper ring. I had the O and spacer rings switched around. I've got a micrometer caliper ordered, so I can get a measurement on the O-ring and can try to buy a few to have on hand. That's the main piece of the set that goes bad and I hate dropping $36 every time I have to replace the dang O-ring.