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Cabs and Seats - We need your help!

Jim D

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
408
Location
California
Occupation
equipment operator
....

I hate:
"Nader pegs" for the door that catch pockets and hammer loops. Seat belts that you can't unhook with gloves. Floor mats that you can't clean, ...

So true!!!

Key switch on a horizontal surface is a MUST. Don't care about the gunk that it collects, spray it with PB or break free and no problem.
 

DoosanFan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
171
Location
Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
Occupation
Forester
Use some sense when designing the mirrors. I am small, but I have lost count the number of times I have gotten into a tractor or TLB and bashed my shoulder because they sit at a funny angle (and then had to readjust them, too). Also, can we have all the simple seat adjustments placed in logical places, not scattered about in the least obvious places, or grouped under the seat where you have to put your head between your knees to see how to adjust the seat. And with retractable seat belts, have a bit of a plastic sheath about 5 inches long at the opening of the mechanism that stops the tongue rolling back all the way behind or under the seat. It makes finding it and grabbing it so much easier. And I agree with the well placed hand holds for when having to reverse and look behind you, an example is in the Doosan Mega series wheel loaders. And on excavators, please can we have the left joystick console liftable like they used to be? I am small, but damn, I still have to dance around it when getting in. I can only imagine what it must be like for the bigger guys.
 

Ole Gal

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
46
Location
Harrington, Delaware
Occupation
Construction: House framing and steel erection. R
What about the cab door windows breaking when the door is slammed open by the wind or just shutting the door. I believe a sliding door would solve that problem. With all the SUV's having sliding automated doors, surely something could be adapted for heavy equipment, even if it was not automated open and close.
 

Mjrdude1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
168
Location
Wichita, Ks
All very good suggestions for sure!

I have one that pertains to cabs. We always install 2-way radios and or CB's in our machines for jobsite comms. The new cabs have next to no place to mount things except a ROPS post that you are not allowed to drill or weld without ruining the certs. Put a couple mount plates or threaded holes or something on the pillars that we can mount aftermarket items to. Along the same lines.... quit making every thing out of plastic! These machines aint cheap and plastic has a short lifespan in construction environments!
 

Randy88

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
2,154
Location
iowa
I'll toss out a few, don't put anything in or near the cab headliner by the door, I've broken off more knobs, switches and controls with coat hoods and pocket catching on things as I climb out over they years its not funny.

If its heavy equipment, have the cab door lock open somehow, a lot of stuff is only to be run with the door shut, there's no way to latch it open.

I want the entire cab to come off, not in days or hours with a lot of help, but in less than one hour with one person and a crane I can take it off, take it to the shop and troubleshoot switch issues, seat problems or whatever is inside it, while on the ground, not feet up in the air.

I'd also like to have a complete contained ac unit, mount the compressor on it, have it driven off a hydraulic motor and if there's an issue, swap out the entire unit and go or take the entire unit off and take it into the shop to be worked on, that way everything is contained within, somewhat like a fridge or freezer is done.

I'll add to the comment of flat glass, whoever invented curved glass should be shot.

On the cab, have the glass held in with rubber gasket material, but have the entire window frame unbolt and be taken out of the cab, this does two things, first I can take the frame, gasket and window out as a unit to be taken into the shop to replace the glass, so I don't have to take the machine in or put the glass in the gasket myself or have a service call to have it done, then have a hook on the outside of the frame so I can use a crane to help put the whole assembly back on the cab, without a dozen people helping me install the window or glass, doors can be taken off, but the main cab windows usually can't.

No plastic inside the cab, I could care less about looks for my heavy equipment, bolts are the only fastener to be used in putting anything in the cab or putting the cab together, no clips, screws or fasteners that require anything but a standard set of wrenches. Headliners should be bolted in place, not glued on, you also need to come up with a much better design to deaden sound and insulate the cab than is available today, most stuff used today is junk and won't stand up the dirt and vibration over time.

Air is the only thing to use for seat suspension, if you have to use an air pump for the seat, don't mount it under the suspension like some have done in the past.

Put whatever you do on actual jobsites for testing before ever putting it into production, tell whoever is testing them to go tear them up, if they can, its nothing like will be done to it in normal use and abuse on many jobsites.
 

monster76

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Messages
526
Location
Miami Fl
Occupation
Contractor
I would love a seat with a toilet/bidet/dryer.Seriously though inside the cab my biggest pet peeve is how my gauges fog up all the time in the morning on my open cab machine I also wish more machines would have a telescopic steering wheel somw time I wish I could bring the wheel a bit closer to me
 

StumpyWally

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Messages
542
Location
Liv'in the Dream ---------------> in Ballston, NY
Occupation
PE Civil Eng'r, Computer Sys. Mgr., Retired
No plastic inside the cab, I could care less about looks for my heavy equipment, bolts are the only fastener to be used in putting anything in the cab or putting the cab together, no clips, screws or fasteners that require anything but a standard set of wrenches. Headliners should be bolted in place, not glued on, you also need to come up with a much better design to deaden sound and insulate the cab than is available today, most stuff used today is junk and won't stand up the dirt and vibration over time.

Please listen to this suggestion...It's right on!!! I could not have said it better.
 

Ryan151

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2014
Messages
227
Location
Colorado
I run a 980 with command steering for instance to run that machine you never move your hands around its all just right there we have some volvos too and you have to shift this and push that button over there to get it to down shift it's a real pita. Make machines where you don't remove your hand from a control it's very simple and clean it makes for an easier day too. Air ride seats are win. A nice roomy cab is also nice gives you room for your lunch box without it getting stuck under the throttle peddle lol
 

jxm7202

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
14
Location
brookings, sd
I have my window open whenever I have a grade checker/pipe layer. I have dug footings in temps below zero and cold wind blowing into the cab will make my hands cold.
 

jxm7202

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
14
Location
brookings, sd
I also would like to the see the whole industry pick a standard lunchbox and water jug size and provide a spot in every cab to secure one of each.
 

Desertwheeler

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
405
Location
Ca
Occupation
Miner
Make places to keep stuff like bottles of windex and paper towels. How about a heated and cooled compartment. JD articulated truck have a compartment that cools whatever you put in it like hot bottles of water. Coat hooks you can actually hang a a hard hat and clothes off of.
 

StumpyWally

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Messages
542
Location
Liv'in the Dream ---------------> in Ballston, NY
Occupation
PE Civil Eng'r, Computer Sys. Mgr., Retired
Here's 2 more wants:
1. On heated seats, use a 3-position switch (rather than 2) so you can have a hi setting to warm your butt, a low setting to keep it warm (but not cook it), & off. My car seats do this...works great.
2. Also on heated seats, extend the heating up the seat back, at least past the lower back.
3. Make all seat backs high backs that can recline.
 

Coaldust

Senior Member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
6,055
Location
Subarctic Backwoods Trailer Park
Occupation
Big trucks is what I know. HAZMAT is what I tow.
Provide lifting points to make cabs easy and safe to remove. For example, the Oshkosh H-series truck cabs have no lifting points. Oshkosh responded by selling an expensive and often unavailable spreader bar that uses straps through the cab to perform the lift. Make it safer and easier for the Techs that will fix it later.

Provide a way for water to drain to handle mud and snowmelt or an operator that leaves a window open during a rain storm. No low spots under the floor coverings for water to collect and rust the floor plate out.

Like some of the other guys said, use windows with rubber seals. It's not practical to glue windows in when it's -20F. Plus it takes too long for the adhesive to dry and takes the machine out of production.

Thanks,
CD
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,408
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Dashes that are easily removed for service of gauges and diagnosis

Take a look at the 988B Cat dash setup. Sitting in the operators seat you could remove a couple screws holding each section(right and left) of panel, pull dash out and 3 or 4 color coded plug connectors unplugged and dash was completely removed. You could then carry the two panels down to the work bench to work on the problem.
 
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