Nklpltd
Member
Hey guys and gals...
Like the title says... I am in the planning stages of building a custom class 8 motorhome.
So far here are a few of the details.
It will be max length of 45 feet, per Idaho maximum single vehicle length.
I want a custom rig, but I am a bit torn on the specific body. Here are the few I'm trying to choose on, a 50's GMC 630 hood and cab on a newer heavier frame, a W900A Kenworth, 60-70's Autocar or a 50's Mack. The diesel will be a Celect + N14 Cummins and the new TC-10 Allison 10 speed trans.
I know most motorhomes tow a car, but I am planning on mine riding inside the rear garage area. The back will have barn doors with ramps for the car.
Here is where I need some opinions....
With a big long rig like this, and a Monster Diesel up front, I'm probably going to need a heavier axle than the typical 12k. I am thinking a 16k or 18k would be safe. I would prefer to not run a 385 or 425 if I don't have to and completely kill my turning radius.
On the back I am thinking a single drive axle with duals 20-30k, maybe 20k with a 13.5k tag axle. My crazy thought was with a single rig this long, how can I possible make it turn a bit better and not take a football field to turn around in, so why not add a tag steering axle? What do you guys think? I want at least a bogie axle in the back to help with the weight, but having a steering axle seems like a much better idea. Then in my research last night I was looking at drop axles and thought that would be perfect. Have it help steer when I am going forward, and then when I back up, it will lift and I have a single pivot point, therefore helping to turn better in reverse as well.... Thoughts??
I was planning on finding a salvage truck that the body was smashed but the frame still intact at straight. I have good welding skills and equipment but I'm still a bit uneasy about cutting and stretching the frame. Where the frame will be mated, I am going to weld and bolt them together just to be on the safe side. Also with a newer frame it will be easier to find a matching frame for the stretch.
My last question is for the rear pintle hitch. I am building a custom rear bumper that is the full 102 inches wide. It will be very reinforced, so do you think I would be alright with a 1/2 inch plate that has multiple trusses tying it to the frame along with the plate itself being welded to the frame?
This will only ever haul a 16 foot trailer with toys or an additional car so not a ton of weight.
Any more input on anything would be appreciated.
Jake
Like the title says... I am in the planning stages of building a custom class 8 motorhome.
So far here are a few of the details.
It will be max length of 45 feet, per Idaho maximum single vehicle length.
I want a custom rig, but I am a bit torn on the specific body. Here are the few I'm trying to choose on, a 50's GMC 630 hood and cab on a newer heavier frame, a W900A Kenworth, 60-70's Autocar or a 50's Mack. The diesel will be a Celect + N14 Cummins and the new TC-10 Allison 10 speed trans.
I know most motorhomes tow a car, but I am planning on mine riding inside the rear garage area. The back will have barn doors with ramps for the car.
Here is where I need some opinions....
With a big long rig like this, and a Monster Diesel up front, I'm probably going to need a heavier axle than the typical 12k. I am thinking a 16k or 18k would be safe. I would prefer to not run a 385 or 425 if I don't have to and completely kill my turning radius.
On the back I am thinking a single drive axle with duals 20-30k, maybe 20k with a 13.5k tag axle. My crazy thought was with a single rig this long, how can I possible make it turn a bit better and not take a football field to turn around in, so why not add a tag steering axle? What do you guys think? I want at least a bogie axle in the back to help with the weight, but having a steering axle seems like a much better idea. Then in my research last night I was looking at drop axles and thought that would be perfect. Have it help steer when I am going forward, and then when I back up, it will lift and I have a single pivot point, therefore helping to turn better in reverse as well.... Thoughts??
I was planning on finding a salvage truck that the body was smashed but the frame still intact at straight. I have good welding skills and equipment but I'm still a bit uneasy about cutting and stretching the frame. Where the frame will be mated, I am going to weld and bolt them together just to be on the safe side. Also with a newer frame it will be easier to find a matching frame for the stretch.
My last question is for the rear pintle hitch. I am building a custom rear bumper that is the full 102 inches wide. It will be very reinforced, so do you think I would be alright with a 1/2 inch plate that has multiple trusses tying it to the frame along with the plate itself being welded to the frame?
This will only ever haul a 16 foot trailer with toys or an additional car so not a ton of weight.
Any more input on anything would be appreciated.
Jake