• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Any advice on my 188 engine swap in the old ck would be appreciated

Wes J

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
649
Location
Peoria, IL
There we go! That's what we expected to see. You've got all the marks you need.

I don't think the shuttle has to be timed in any way.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
Thanks Wes j. I can’t see why it would need to be. But never hurts to ask... thanks for the help and replies to all.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
If you need more info just ask .:)
View attachment 180394
Thanks for that Info. I’m confused a bit now tho..? If I understand right I need to align the flywheel and the other half ( shuttle?) to re assemble it ? I didn’t remove any bolts when i pulled the eng and it separated at the fw as pictured... if I install the fw on the new engine do I need to align it as it says in your post or can I just install it and make sure he teeth mesh together ??? Sorry just wanted to ask. Looks like I need to get access to a CD reading devise and or get my CD manual printed out I know I’ll need it for some torque specs but this alignment sounds critical and is a fairly small tolerance. I didn’t try to pull the part off the tranny side. I did spin it around a couple times tho
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
The info on the page I posted only refers to the flex plate FF. Nothing technical about sliding the convertor and shuttle into the flywheel. Don't force them together, they will slide together with ease when they are lined up correctly. Cut the heads off of a couple of long bolts and use them for alignment aids.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
The info on the page I posted only refers to the flex plate FF. Nothing technical about sliding the convertor and shuttle into the flywheel. Don't force them together, they will slide together with ease when they are lined up correctly. Cut the heads off of a couple of long bolts and use them for alignment aids.
Phew!!! I was worried there for a min that I had some highly technical alignment to do upon installing the engine. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Lol. Going on a hunt for seals and gaskets today. Fingers crossed I can get them locally.
 

Livesinabarn321

New Member
Joined
May 1, 2018
Messages
4
Location
Louisiana
Just found this thread after replying to the one in general industry questions! Sorry y’all I’m new. Glad to see everything going well Funny Farm.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
Well I was able to get all the gaskets and main seals at the local case dealer. Unfortunately I think the engine I bought was hat was supposed to be a running engine is bad... if I roll the crankshaft over ,I can get about 3-4 revolutions and then it locks up and I can hear a metallic noise in the bottom end. Planned to swap the pan gasket and main seals anyway so I guess I’ll see how bad it is once I drop the pan. Haven’t been able to work on it since I realized the crank won’t keep turning. Turns a few turns and stops then can turn the opposite direction a few turns and stops again. Ugh...... might be the end of my project if this engine is bad. If it is damaged my only hope is that the crank is useable and I could possibly use the crank and rods to repair my original engine. It runs but knocks. If the crank is bad in this eng too then I’m likely going to part out what I can and scrap the rest. Very discouraged at the moment..... kinda angry at the guy who sold me the “ running engine “ and at myself for taking him at his word and not inspecting the eng better. I did roll the crank to make sure it wasn’t seized but didn’t roll it enuf to hit the spot that it locks up. The good news is the eng has a good inj pump. Steering pump, and lots of good parts. I’ll post what I find when I’m able to get back at it.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
Pull the valve cover off and see if a valve is stuck. If it's been sitting a long time, it's very possible.
Ok thanks. I will look at that. I have Valve cover gasket and planned to change it before the swap.
If the engine sellers story is true it was pulled from a running ckb about 2years ago and was kept as a spare. Didn’t look like it had been cleaned up and didn’t show any big oil stains or gasket leaks so I assume his story is true?.... hopefully it’s like U say and a valve is stuck or something minor. Makes a click kinda noise as it stops. Could be cam lobe touching a stuck lifter ? Hadn’t thought of that. I kinda thought the worst right away and that it was a rod or crank issue ,cause the noise was low in the eng. really hope it’s a useable eng.... might put the project on the back burner for a few more years if it’s not lol. Can’t see the wife being ok with me having to buy a rebuild kit after spending a grand on a “running” eng lol. Hope to get back at it this weekend and see what is wrong. Bought some shafting and round stock to rebuild the loader pivots too. Assumed the eng will run and wanted to start machineing them. Might take a while on the 1944 southbend 9 lol. But it will get them spun up .020 at a time hahahah
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,165
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Ok thanks. I will look at that. I have Valve cover gasket and planned to change it before the swap.
Funny Farm, Don't panic quite yet like Wes J says pull valve cover and take a look. There is plenty of time to panic latter!

I'd be looking for one or more rocker arms with way too much clearance to the valves.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
I will pull the cover and see what I can see. I’ll post what I find and take some pics if I find anything. Fingers crossed it’s minor issue not a major one lol. Really miss having the old hoe for work around the property. But can’t justify spending much more on it either lol
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
Well I took the Vc off this eve and to my supirise there is a push rod off the rocker .... I can move all the valves and was able to push on the rocker and compress the spring enuf to put the push rod back in its place. Unfortunately the eng still only turns one full revolution and something hits and stops it. So much for a running engine. Ugh.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
Don’t have time to dig any deeper tonight. Hopefully tommo eve I can get the engine on the stand or crane and pull the pan off. Not sure what I will find that’s stopping the crank from turning but it makes a metallic tick or knock as it locks up. And it locks up hard. Almost like a rod bolt is hitting the block or a rod is broken or..???... ugh. Feeling discoruraged and disappointed. The money I may have wasted on this engine would have replaced the crank or repaired it in the orig engine. It at least ran and works.., just knocks once warm. Sadly I may have to pull the plug on my project if this engine also has a bad crank.. :(......
 

Coy Lancaster

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,987
Location
Arkansas
Occupation
service tech
OK thanks.. I wonder if the bolt holes are "off-set"?? meaning they'll only go on 1 way or 180* out..
Anybody else know??
Hey pumpguy the bolts are offset and should not line up but one way. Now mind you the offset may be slight and can be forced to fit so bear that in mind also. Of course with engine at TDC the timing marks on flywheel should be at top left standing behind engine, if my memory serves me correctly.
 

Funny farm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
206
Location
Ontario Canada
Occupation
Red seal,high pressure certified welder
image.jpg
Pull the valve cover off and see if a valve is stuck. If it's been sitting a long time, it's very possible.
I have taken the valve cover off , oil pan, front cover over the inj pump gear and the water pump. Nothing obvious stopping the engine from rolling over more than one revolution?... could a lifter be stuck in the block ? Could that explain the one pushrod that was off the rocker when I opened the vc?
Lots of sludge in the pan. Heavy pudding like black goo. But no sign of metal or anything. Don’t think it’s a crank issue now at least. I have to get some olastiguage and check it better tho. Looks like I’m going to have to pull the head and dig deeper.. looking like even worst case I can use this crank and rebuild the orig engine. Shoulda known an engine swap would still end up being a rebuild lol.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,165
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Well if you have the pan off I'd remove the rocker arms and then you should be able to poke up at the lifters and see if they all move free.

Then again as you are this close I would just pull the head and get a good look at the tops of the pistons and cylinder walls.
 
Top