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Allis Chalmers m-100

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
I would use a small tank and feed directly into the fuel system with new fuel and pull start it if the tires will take a little air. May still need 24 volt battery power to perhaps power a solenoid and stuff like that if not mechanical shutdown.
 

DIYDAVE

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Feb 18, 2007
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The point I am trying to make re the batteries is that good batteries, connected to good cables, short in length, will work better and spin the starter faster than the same batteries, connected to long jumpers, held together with spring loaded jumper cables. You get some voltage drop, going through long cables, and some more drop, through loose connections...;)
 

ippielb

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Mar 30, 2014
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695
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Saskatchewan
Well, charging the batteries as we speak, new fuel filters, didn’t realize that there is a mechanical fuel pump on the injection pump to force fuel through the second filter. So that took some time. I had to make new gaskets for the top bleed bolt. One never even had a gasket on it.

Anyways long story short a little ether, a little weak batteries, and a little turning over got it to pop a few times.

Now it’s game on, charge the batteries for a while, get them powered up. And I hope this old girl will stay running.
 

Queenslander

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Apr 5, 2009
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Australia
Sounds encouraging ippield.
If you do need to bump start it, I would suggest pushing it rather than towing.
If it’s like the B series we had, it will have a hydraulically assisted clutch that is almost impossible to operate without the engine running.
Combined with the fact that you don’t know, for sure, if the clutch will work when the motor does start, it might be safer to point it towards a wide open space and give it a push.
 

ippielb

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Messages
695
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Saskatchewan
With good batteries and connections, it fired right up. And runs very well actually. But the PTO shaft that runs under the cab to the control assembly shakes something fierce. Also, I don’t got any power steering. Where do I check the hydraulic oil??? I need that manual.

Also the levers, don’t really have detents, as well the wheel lean has some kick back when I try and ease into it. But when I slam it forward or back it engages.
 

Queenslander

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the PTO shaft that runs under the cab to the control assembly shakes something fierce.
That sounds familiar....lol
The hyd. tank on ours was sort of under the seat with a cap and dipstick just under where the M100 decal is on yours.. can’t remember which side though.
How does the clutch feel?
 

DIYDAVE

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Feb 18, 2007
Messages
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With good batteries and connections, it fired right up. And runs very well actually. But the PTO shaft that runs under the cab to the control assembly shakes something fierce. Also, I don’t got any power steering. Where do I check the hydraulic oil??? I need that manual.

Also the levers, don’t really have detents, as well the wheel lean has some kick back when I try and ease into it. But when I slam it forward or back it engages.

Check the U joints, and the U joint phasing. If the driveline is assembled out of phase (u-joints not lined up), can cause the shaking...
 

ippielb

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Mar 30, 2014
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Location
Saskatchewan
Check the U joints, and the U joint phasing. If the driveline is assembled out of phase (u-joints not lined up), can cause the shaking...
I was wondering about phasing. That’s probably the problem. The ujoints looked alright and didn’t have excessive play.
 

ippielb

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Mar 30, 2014
Messages
695
Location
Saskatchewan
That sounds familiar....lol
The hyd. tank on ours was sort of under the seat with a cap and dipstick just under where the M100 decal is on yours.. can’t remember which side though.
How does the clutch feel?
Didn’t feel like most clutches I can tell you that. Lol kinda squishy but worked.
 

ippielb

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Mar 30, 2014
Messages
695
Location
Saskatchewan
Still in search of a 14.00-24 tire for this grader so I can actually see if the brakes work lol. Maybe put some used blades on it from work. Got some coolant additive to see if it fixed the pin hole in the radiator. Then reseal the covers on the controls in the cab. And weld the cab into one piece again, hard to keep the cab secure when the Lower half on the back is he fuel tank.
 

ippielb

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Mar 30, 2014
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Saskatchewan
Little update, found a used tire for the grader, absolutely couldn’t get the rim to let go of the brake hub, had to drag it around on the flat for it to wiggle lose finally. Only broke one stud on it. Happy about that.

Second, I greased all 10,000 grease nipples, used a tube and a half of grease.

And last thing I just finished today, put a set of used blades off my grader at work on it, surprisingly all the bolt holes lined up. This old grader only uses 9 bolts per blade though. No big deal.
 

ippielb

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Mar 30, 2014
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CC8058D3-9760-4745-B399-9F00B2F53B0A.jpeg 7B13FD37-C8AF-4642-BAA8-AC787C1EC914.jpeg
Blades like these will last my grader for the rest of its life probably.

Doing finals at work those blades had a pretty good wave in them and the corners being worn off my supervisor told me to throw a new set on. I was going to try and last the season, but hey, new blades on my grader at work, and very very good blades for an old junky Grader like mine on the farm.
 

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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Moose Lake, MN
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With good batteries and connections, it fired right up. And runs very well actually. But the PTO shaft that runs under the cab to the control assembly shakes something fierce. Also, I don’t got any power steering. Where do I check the hydraulic oil??? I need that manual.

Also the levers, don’t really have detents, as well the wheel lean has some kick back when I try and ease into it. But when I slam it forward or back it engages.

That's the way the old Cats have always been. Slam in and out to avoid wear. The more they wear, the more the knucklebuster term holds true.
 

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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4,233
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Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
I would check all them gearboxes for water. After setting for 20 years the ones on my 212 Cat were almost full of condensate. Still can not figure out the ones in front of the windshield could get over a quart of water in each sealed unit.
 

ippielb

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Mar 30, 2014
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695
Location
Saskatchewan
I was just in a rush to do some work on the farm today with it, we are suppose to get over an inch of snow tonight. So it’s going to be wet and squishy for a while, wanted to work on the drainage. This whole week is looking like snow/rain mixture.

I have a bunch of work to do on this thing to make sure it’ll last. Springs wore out for the circle turn. So that out really kicks back. My hands are kinda sore after playing for 5 hours with it today. And I’m super impressed with fuel consumption.
 
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