Advice on Cylinder Seal Kit

[NH575E]

Took some measurements on my store bought gland nut wrench and the holes of the gland nut.

My wrench has pins with a small and large end. The small end is .265" dia. The large is .328" dia. The center that goes in the wrench body is .428" dia.

The gland nut holes measure .468" dia.

I was able to loosen the pins and slide the small end out some so the center would engage the holes. Not a perfect solution but seems like it might grab better than the other way. Somebody that has actually used these wrenches can chime in if I'm wrong. I have seen photos of this type wrench with the small end pins pushed out from the body as I am describing.

How much would it cost to just have a shop put your new seals in if you took the cylinder to them? Unless you're doing a bunch of cylinders, which I think is unlikely for awhile, you're spending more money on tools than it would cost to just have it done by a shop. A stabilizer cylinder is the easiest to remove.

I took one of mine to a shop just to get them to loosen the gland nut I couldn't get loose. The shop had moved 60 miles from me so it was a 120 mile trip two times because they couldn't do it while I waited. They charged me $85 to take it apart. When I asked how they got it apart they said they used a large pipe wrench with a long pipe stuck on it and 3 guys pulling. I have since bought myself a couple of 3 ft pipe wrenches.

Ironically I had had the gland out of this cylinder before and couldn't loosen it after I had put it back together. To top it off there was nothing wrong inside the cylinder and my slow motion problem turned out to be something had come out of the operating valve and stuck in one of the inlets. Whatever that was is not needed because I just removed it and cured the problem. This was after I bought and replaced both of the check valve assemblies on top of the cylinders.

When I put it together the last time I coated the gland nut threads with anti seize compound.

Sometimes it just costs money to learn.

 

[Swetz]

NH575E, I am going to wait for the kit, then check the seal. If there is a problem I will check into it before I open the cylinder. Supposed to rain here most of the week anyhow so no real loss in time. Thanks!

 

[Swetz]

NH575E, Good thinking! I just measured my pins and the center(part in the tool) is like 7/16" (.438"). God I wish
I had my micrometer and dial caliper here. I am thinking I could order some 7/16" dowels, lock them in the middle. .468" is close enough to work much better than the .328" pins. Amazon has 4 dowels for $9.00 delivered. To me, this is worth a try. If I had a lathe, I would make a pin insert that was exactly correct.

 

[Tinkerer]

I would advise you to not buy that 36 inch breaker bar for no more use than you have.
A 24 inch pipe wrench from Harbor freight (bout$20.00) or less) with a 6 foot pipe on the handle will serve you well.

 

[jimg984]

24 in will not open wide enough

 

[Tinkerer]

24 in will not open wide enough

That would be a darn big bolt. I was referring to use it on the socket skirt to remove and replace the rod bolt or nut.
I have twisted off 3/4 breaker bar swivels as if they were made out of butter.

 

[jimg984]

sorry, was thinking gland nut as mention before,, rachetts are stronger than breaker bars, try harbour frieght china made

 

[Welder Dave]

Ratchets stronger than breaker bars, that's a new one to me. A pipe wrench on an impact socket (softer than chrome socket) could work for removing the piston nut. There's video's online of guys using pipe wrenches to remove the piston nut/bolt and then reusing it after it's all torn up from the pipe wrench. Using a pipe wrench on a gland nut any damage is on the outside so not as critical. Some of the farm stores sell up to 48" pipe wrenches. I bought a used Ridgid 48" pipe wrench for $100 as I wasn't sure how much force I needed to get the gland nuts loose. Used the skid steer on the 1st one and realized 2 guys pulling on the wrench was enough to loosen the other one. Took the cylinder rods in and was charged an hour labor each to change the seals. Figuring they'll be good for my lifetime saved me from buying more tools and messing around with them.

 

[Swetz]

I purchased the 3/4" breaker bar to use on the gland nut tool. I purchased the longer one because, being SK (USA made), I would think the joint would be engineered for the high torque that will be generated by 36" of handle. Hopefully I will not need a pipe on it with this much handle. I will definitely use a ball peen hammer on the tube to make it easier. As for the nut, I will prolly crack it loose with the breaker bar then zip it off with an impact gun. Then snug it with the gun, and torque it with the breaker bar. BTW, the equivalent breaker bar at harbor freight was $90. My price on the SK brand was $130 plus shipping. To me it was worth a couple extra bucks. I do have a rigid 48" pipe wrench, if I must use it, but I really do not want to make a mess of the parts or the socket.

Thanks for all the replies...it is good food for thought!

 

[Welder Dave]

The rod bolts on my Cat specify 800 ft./lbs. and will take more than that to loosen them. Loctite may have been used as well. I think you might need a bit more than the 36" handle to get them loose but you might be able to jump on the breaker bar.

 

[Tinkerer]

My odds are 10 to 1 he will be buying a pipe wrench after the breaker bar lives up to it's name.

 

[mikebramel]

ratchets are stronger than beaker bars if you'd all use your tools youd know that

 

[Welder Dave]

He says he has a 48" pipe wrench. I've stripped a couple ratchets and have broke breaker bars. I broke a pipe wrench too pushing on it with a loader. If you're going to use a snipe have at least 3/4" drive and preferably 1" drive. Anything will break with enough torque on it.

 

[Tinkerer]

My 3/4 ratchet after a swing swing cylinder rod bolt attempt.
My trusty old 24 inch pipe wrench with a 7 foot cheater did the job.

 

[mikebramel]

Nothing wrong with a Hercules kit They sell top brands, as good or bettter than what youd get from cnh

 

[Swetz]

Tinkerer, I already have a rigid 48" pipe wrench to use if necessary..I really do not want to use it on the gland and make a mess, so I am hoping the breaker bar does not break on me

mikebramel, Thanks for the feedback on the Hercules seal kit. That is the kit I purchased.

 

[Tinkerer]

Tinkerer, I already have a rigid 48" pipe wrench to use if necessary..I really do not want to use it on the gland and make a mess, so I am hoping the breaker bar does not break on me

Agreed with you Swetz !
NEVER EVER USE A PIPE WRENCH ON A GLAND !!
I never have and never will.
Many years ago I took a cylinder to a supposedly professional hydraulic shop.
The SOB's used a pipe wrench on the gland and it looked like crap, it was so badly chewed up. I was soooo pi##ed I bought a used cylinder and replaced it.
I have cut off grade 8 bolts and used them for pins in my homemade gland wrenches.
The gland pin holes can be drilled for a larger pins if the holes are damaged.

 

[Joe Friday]

ratchets are stronger than beaker bars if you'd all use your tools youd know that

I respectfully disagree on this one. If you are buying quality tools - the breaker bar is Much stronger than a ratchet. Mechanic then Tool and Die Maker 40 years.

 

[Swetz]

Tinkerer, Good point about the bolts...hopefully I will not need to drill them larger. Thanks.

 

[Tinkerer]

I forgot to mention that the adjustable gland wrench pin holes can be drilled to bigger size.
I haven't needed to do that yet.