Advice for welding repair of 4 in 1 bucket

[Bluox]

The info posted in that article is contrary to what 6011 was designed for. Yes it has deep penetration but was originally designed as alternative to 6010 that could be used on AC current. It is not designed to be used on DC-. It doesn't have quite as much penetration as 6010 but generally has a smoother arc. Misinformation is common on the internet and it can be difficult to know what to believe. Listing 6011 as all polarity puts in question the validity of the person who wrote it. It is quite common to weld groove welds with a 6010/6011 to get full penetration followed by 7018. If the person doing the repair is capable, 7018 will give the strongest repair. The most important aspect is having the required skill though. Have seen too many times where someone thinks because they have a welder, they can do all their repairs. On critical stuff get someone experienced. Not a lot different than doing your own oil changes and basic maintainence but getting a mechanic to do major repairs.

So Buckshot,
Lincoln and Hobart don't know what they're talking about either hu they both sell 6011 they claim can run DC or AC ?
Bob

 

[Tinkerer]

Whats up with the name calling ? Sheesh !!
Time to close this thread, IMHO.

 

[Welder Dave]

I said 6011 it's not designed for DC-. I didn't say DC in general. Anybody with any welding knowledge knows about polarity.

 

[Bluox]

I said 6011 it's not designed for DC-. I didn't say DC in general. Anybody with any welding knowledge knows about polarity.

Like Lincoln and Hobart they both sell 6011 that is AC or DC+or- maybe you should brush up on polarity.
Bob

 

[Welder Dave]

Hobart® 335A - Product Details - Hobart Brothers

 

[Bluox]

Hobart® 335A - Product Details - Hobart Brothers

You do realize DCEP means either polarity right ?
Bob

 

[Welder Dave]

It means Direct Current Electrode Positive. Also commonly referred to as reverse polarity. Either polarity

 

[Scout_1969]

The pocket in original post picture #4 shows a pocket of sorts and shows daylight through. Also the pocket had kinda sheets of rust that was removed when i pressure washed the machine. I’m thinking rust surely contributed to this but wasn’t the cause. The bottom of the cylinder is almost on a post except for the gusset in between the outside part. Could have been designed better as was pointed out by others. Here’s pictures of a Cat 416 that appears to be a better design and has survived since ‘87 while my backhoe is an ‘83. I’ll look at supporting that area better. Some of this may have been described previously by others, but I sometimes have a harder time understanding text compared to drawings or pictures.

Oddly the bottom part of my cylinder doesn’t have a grease fitting or hole where one goes. So I’m interested in the grease fitting idea Delmer had but I’m not sure I understand.

 

[Delmer]

I mentioned a grease fitting just to put some grease between the plate and the original, so you don't make another pocket to fill up with dirt and rust. Not needed at all, but it won't hurt and it's easy to do. Don't worry about the cylinder pin either, use an oil can on it and it will outlast you and me without any slop that will matter.

I agree, the cat cylinder mount is much better designed. I figure you don't have to make something this old perfect, just better enough than it was to last long enough. A small plate inside the bucket and some weld built up to form a gusset on the outside should be plenty.

 

[Welder Dave]

You could spray dry graphite on the bottom cylinder pin and bushings. Would make it easy to pull the pin if you ever had to.

 

[hookedondiesel]

Just curious Dave, what is " dry graphite spray ". I'm aware of graphite grease used for high temp's but you have me puzzled with this dry spray.

 

[Tinkerer]

 

[Welder Dave]

There's several brands of it.

Graphite Extreme lubricant | Jig-A-Loo (jigaloo.ca)

Dry Lube | Dry Lubricant Spray | LIQUID WRENCH

 

[Delmer]

Dry moly spray is another option for dry pins.

 

[jimg984]

what is best rod to use when welding stainless steel to carbon steel, using a AC/DC buss box

 

[Swetz]

Here is the tractor supply version. They stock it at my store.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-slide-graphite-based-coating-12-oz-aerosol

 

[Scout_1969]

Our Carquest has CRC version, TSC doesn’t stock it. But the other brands are available. I found a can of CRC lubricant that was probably 30 years old and still worked.
Oddly I remember it had a kinda appealing smell!
Mechanics I used to be around always seem to prefer CRC products.

 

[Scout_1969]

Thanks for the tip on the dry graphite.

I have several areas in addition to the 4 in 1 bucket cylinders that pivot with no grease fittings available; the outriggers , the curl pin on backhoe, maybe one on the front bucket linkage too, as well as the shifter, accelerator and probably a few I can’t recall now

 

[Welder Dave]

Use 309 stainless electrodes for welding stainless steel to mild steel. 312 will also work but is more expensive. If you only need a few rods you could use specialty rods designed for welding difficult to weld steels, spring steel and broken bolt removal. These rods are stainless based and similar to 312 stainless. Tensile strength is 120 to 130,000 psi. Most welding supplies will have a display with small packages of specialty rods. You don't want to buy 5kg(10lbs.) packs of stainless rods when you only need to weld a few inches.

 

[JL Sargent]

If the situation allows, tig welding with 309 in 1/16" has been my go to when welding unknown steels for many years. Always have that on hand.