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flyman

New Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Messages
4
Location
Charlotte, NC
I'm getting rrr sound, "just whines no cranking or clicking" when turning the start switch.
It seemed the starter wasn’t engaging the flywheel.
Then did a bunch quick turning of the switch, back and forth, got it working.
Ran the machine a few hrs. Turned it off, tried starting it again. Getting the whine sound. No luck starting.
Was thinking the pinion is probably not snapped into engagement with the flywheel ring gear.
Took the side covers off, smacked the starter with a hammer while someone turned the switch. No luck.
Pretty sure the starter motor isn't locked.
With the loader arms down, pulled off the belly pans. Pulled out the starter.

Found
Starter piston teeth (helix ring gear/ bendix drive) chipped away
Ring Gear bad teeth (flywheel ring gear) are chipped away

My assumption, the starter continued turning, flywheel was stuck, jams up.

To do next...
Check to see if the engine will turn two complete revolutions of the crankshaft using the fan by hand (using a wrench on the front pulley);
make sure the motor is not hydro-locked, making sure the crankshaft moves, even though fan moves.

Do I have to pull the motor to replace the Flywheel? If yes, any tips, reference how to do this? Or should I even try to weld teeth on the Flywheel through the opening and fix the starter bendix drive, test it?

2023-03-22-103717.jpeg2023-03-22-103725.jpeg
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,699
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
In case you were not aware the ring gear in the flywheel is a separate part. Either way it will require the flywheel to be removed to replace it.

You said that you had previously removed the belly guards. Have a look at the area of the coupling between the flywheel and the torque converter. You may also have to remove the floor plate in the cab. If that coupling was disassembled and the converter input flange was removed would that give you enough space to remove the flywheel either upwards or down.?
 

flyman

New Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Messages
4
Location
Charlotte, NC
I’ve removed the front 3 smaller belly guards to help get the starter out. The rear is a large plate and will start evaluating if there is enough room. Bummer part, just had the front apart, replaced the head gasket.
 

sawmilleng

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
223
Location
Central Kootenays, Canada
While you are at it, and have everything wide open, get the starter rebuilt and tested or get a new one. Don't just change the bendix out.

Also, check the flywheel enclosure to make sure all the shrapnel is cleaned out!

Jon.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,904
Location
WI
Those teeth don't look bad at all except for the missing three. How many more teeth are missing? That would make the decision for me. Three only, you could weld and grind new ones and it might last longer than you need it. I'd hate to put a new starter on that ring gear, because it would chew up the starter gear and the next tooth in the ring gear, but it would probably start for a while.

It looks like the lower teeth show wear on the back side of the teeth, either from the engine driving the starter because the starter stayed engaged, or because the starter gear was too big?
 

flyman

New Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Messages
4
Location
Charlotte, NC
So far, drained the diesel and hydraulic fuel, removed the shifting levels, pedals, hydraulic lines, torque convert flange, coupling drive, and the Flywheel Housing Cover. Now I'm stuck. Not able to get this Flywheel Plate Assembly off. I can't find a puller wide enough that is also narrow in depth. Basically do not have much space to work with. Before I start marking a tool, a mechanic told me to try using 2 long threaded bolts, crank them evenly in the holes. Tried the upper holes, started striping the bolts. Next tried the inner holes, using ~5 inch long bolts and they went all the way in, not hitting anything behind. The original bolts are ~3 inches long. Do I just need longer bolts or is there another way to get this2024-05-05-220613.jpeg2024-05-05-220620.jpeg2024-05-05-220548.jpeg off.
 

flyman

New Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Messages
4
Location
Charlotte, NC
Thank you. My guess is the 2 metal dowels come out. It's behind them are the threads, where to insert the screws. I'll try this next. Note, in the manual, the prior pictures are not showing these metal dowels which also can be confusing.

"8. Install two forcing screws (10) in flange assembly (9) and remove the flange assembly."
 
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