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955K drive questions/ suggestions

OldandWorn

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
908
Location
Md/Pa
Wags, the bearing in there is two tapered roller bearings back to back and when you install the new ones they will be loose until you torque them and that will set the preload, that is why they come in a set.

It seems odd to me but there doesn't seem to be any preload on these bearings. The end play spec for a new bearing set is .001-.007 which would mean preload is not possible.
 

Maurice Muenks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
85
Location
Taos, Missouri USA
Occupation
Owner of an independant heavy equiptment repair bu
I'm mistaken then, I didn,t read the book close enough, that bearing comes as a set for that reason. I would guess the reason there is .001-.007 end play is because of the different kind of metals used there and when they get warm they expand at different rates causing the looseness to tighten up. Dad had a 66 IH dump trk with a three speed aux transmission that kept shelling out the lower shaft bearings about twice a year, and after taking it back to the truck dealer I did it for him and the book called for a .003 preload which you would think would mean take the end play out and the remove .003 of shim, but I did just the opposite, I took all the free play out and the add .003 of shim. Ran quite and that was the last bearing replacement, The shaft grew more that the case.
 

OldandWorn

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
908
Location
Md/Pa
Dad had a 66 IH dump trk with a three speed aux transmission that kept shelling out the lower shaft bearings about twice a year, and after taking it back to the truck dealer I did it for him and the book called for a .003 preload which you would think would mean take the end play out and the remove .003 of shim, but I did just the opposite, I took all the free play out and the add .003 of shim. Ran quite and that was the last bearing replacement, The shaft grew more that the case.

That makes sense. I would have probably loaded it too much also because of their wording.
 

HATCHEQUIP

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
1,200
Location
VILLANOW GEORGIA
O&W read those steering specks of yours again on the later 955s they changed how to read the specks your 3.310 speck is read across the outside of tooth to the outside of tooth the earlier speck was from outside of lining to outside of lining but dont feel bad ive seen some dam good cat mechanics make that same mistake
 

OldandWorn

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
908
Location
Md/Pa
O&W read those steering specks of yours again on the later 955s they changed how to read the specks your 3.310 speck is read across the outside of tooth to the outside of tooth the earlier speck was from outside of lining to outside of lining but dont feel bad ive seen some dam good cat mechanics make that same mistake

Thanks for clarifying that. I brought those dimensions up to make sure Wags was getting the correct information for his K model. The pic is too small to see where it is measured from in the images that you posted but I can see the 3.422 dimension. In post 81 Wags mentioned 3.310 so I was thinking that someone from Cat was giving him L information because I noticed that is the dimension in my L book.
 

wagspe208

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
191
Location
waterloo, il
I talked with the local heavy equipment junkyard today. He wanted 300 for a used pinion. I balked... he said how about 275. I said....hmmmm. Look like bearings are only 130 ish list.
My cat parts manual showed up today. It is for a 955L. ****ING DEALER. I told them it was a 955K and gave serial number. WTF
Wags
 

wagspe208

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
191
Location
waterloo, il
How is your project going Wags?
Interesting you ask. I just ordered a "good" used pinion, new bearings, shims, and seals Thursday. A local guy actually. So, parts should be in this week. I had to ponder it somewhat. I will run the bands and steering clutches as they are in good shape in hindsight.
I have an engine that has to leave the shop by Sat, so that is first priority. Then back to high lift.
I figure, "good" pinion, new bearings and clutches, properly adust crap and this will outlast my little 50 hours a year of use.
I will keep you all posted.
Wags
 

wagspe208

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
191
Location
waterloo, il
Well, an update since last post. Pinion is here, as are bearings.
My dog had cancer and I had to have him killed April 1, then on April 5, my shop burned down. So a little busy with other stuff.
I will press the bearings on the pinion, and start back together this week. I am almost done with cleanup, need to start tear down now.
Wags
 

wagspe208

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
191
Location
waterloo, il
OK, back on it.
I pressed new bearings on the "good used" pinon today. Replaced the o ring seal and 2 backer rings. Bolted the assembly in place. I put the same shim stack in between the race holder as I took out. I will surely verify pinion depth in the ring gear. Pinion is SOLID in the race holder now. No slop, wobble, etc. Play is non existant. I'm happy with the snugness of it for lack of a better term. I am sure it will loosen a little with running, as all tapered bearing assys do.
To remove the most forward race from the race housing was a little tricky. I did not have the cat tool to get it out. I heated it up with a torch cherry red plus a little in a space about 1" or less wide. When it cooled, the race shrank enough to tap out easy enough.
Bolted in the race holder. Used the pinion plate bolts to pull in the races. Tapped a little on a block of wood/ hammer against the pinion to be sure all is seated.
Ready to toss in the ring gear/ steering clutch/ band assy.
Wags
 

wagspe208

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
191
Location
waterloo, il
wagspe208-- PICs- PICs - PICs sounds like your having great progress !
Ironic thing is I had it moved to the house so I could work on it with shop tools. Well, post fire, I am using mostly service van tools. Oh, well. Still more convenient at the shop with everything available if needed (and cleaned).
I will get a couple pics. Good place to take them. Can see some stuff now.
Wags
 

wagspe208

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
191
Location
waterloo, il
A pic or two. I had the pinion in over the weekned, or last week.
Tonight I threw in the bevel gear/ clutch/ brake assembly. I used my tractor bucket to lower in in place. Sort of a PITA by myself. 2 people it would have been pretty quick.
I snugged up the spanner nuts that load the tapered roller bearings for the assembly. A big ass set of channel locks works ok to tighten the nuts. A big ass spanner wrench would have been a little easier. But, a poor man has poor ways. I made sure the slots in the bearing holders aligned with the pins in the bearing caps. Got close and said enough for tonight.
Tomorrow I will set backlash and check pattern. I HOPE I am ok with pinion depth. I threw in the same amount of shims as I removed. Have to start somewhere.
Wags
 

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wagspe208

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
191
Location
waterloo, il
Oh, when tossing in the gear assembly... be damn sure the yoke ball boes into the ball thing in the bottom of the case. It would be a bad day if you had to rip it all back apart.
Wags
 
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