955K drive questions/ suggestions

[wagspe208]

What I learned today:
1) The backlash between pinion and ring gear, measured at pinion is .020"
2) The pinion movement (forward and back) towards and away from transmisson is also .020 ish.
3) The pin in the left bearing cap, that aligns in the slot in the bearing holder was not in position. Meaning the pin was hitting the bearing holder, NOT in the slot. This may have caused issues??
4) The brake shoes look pretty good. I'd like to know new thickness to make a decision.
5) forgot to check final drive oil level. Will check that.
6) Not a bunch of muck in the bottom of the gearcase.
Someone has been in this thing obivously.
SO.... I will fix pinion slop. If it takes bearings, so be it.
I will set up backlash to spec and check pattern.
I will measure steering clutch pack dimension to see where it is wear wise. I see cat says 3.310" +- .040"
Anything else?
Thanks
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

Well, brake thickness is .250 to .350 ish.
Steering clutch pack thickness is 3.155 to 3.165 ish. So, damn good. F me. But good.
SO>>>> fix pinion and throw it back together, or new brakes since it is apart.
Pinion is showing a couple spots of tooth damage.
Wags

 

[OldandWorn]

I had to go back to the start of your thread to see what your original problem was LOL. Did you find a different reason that the brakes appeared to be near the end of adjustment?

I notice that Hatch's image shows 3.422 for the clutch thickness. My book for the "L" shows 3.310 or 3.180 depending on part number.

You are probably in the best position to make the call on the pinion. Are you thinking about replacing the pinion gear?

 

[Maurice Muenks]

Well, brake thickness is .250 to .350 ish.
Steering clutch pack thickness is 3.155 to 3.165 ish. So, damn good. F me. But good.
SO>>>> fix pinion and throw it back together, or new brakes since it is apart.
Pinion is showing a couple spots of tooth damage.
Wags

Wags, I'd touch the spots on the tooth with a die grinder, just the edge of the spot-not much though, so that there is not much tooth contact at the edge of spot to help slow the flacking. (used to work OK when I worked for a Cat dealer).

Maurice

 

[Maurice Muenks]

wagspe208, Have not heard anything from you, hope all is going well with B bands. Iam going slow with this weather, found some other issues with my unit, radiator needs to be pulled and boiled out.But Iam getting along slowly.almost have everthing cleared out of the way for B bands. Hopefully with some fair temperatures repairs can move a bit faster.Good Luck with yours!View attachment 99268View attachment 99266

Toddcat955L,
Are you sure you need to pull the radiator? If it is just getting hot there are other reasons for that, worn fan, alternator, and crankshaft pulleys, and also oil cooler. I have seen pull radiators and have them cleaned and even replaced and still have the same problem. The water comes from the water pump throught the oil cooler then into the engine block, so if the water side of the oil cooler get debree across it the block can't get enough water to keep it cool.

Maurice

 

[wagspe208]

I had to go back to the start of your thread to see what your original problem was LOL. Did you find a different reason that the brakes appeared to be near the end of adjustment?

I notice that Hatch's image shows 3.422 for the clutch thickness. My book for the "L" shows 3.310 or 3.180 depending on part number.

You are probably in the best position to make the call on the pinion. Are you thinking about replacing the pinion gear?

OW... oops, I knew I would do that. I am obviously dislexic. 3.355 to 3.365... doop! I KNEW I would post that wrong.

OK, so from the beginning... I was running this piece after I had it for a couple weeks. I had adjusted the brake bands. Several uses later the right brake started dragging. It let loose, (with a "pop") and my pedal was much lower. I talked to a cat buddy of mine and he said it probably threw a brake pad section. OK, that makes sense.
So, fast forward to now... I think??? one of the tabs that rides in the brake band to apply the brake? (make sense) was not in place properly. When I first got the machine the right brake was all the way to the floor....so possible that tab was out of place when I adjusted.
AND... I was looking at adjusmtent backwards. On the right side.... the "problem side" I had 2x the threads showing as the left side "the good side". So, most likely I am just an inexperienced tool that took his crap all apart for almost nothing. (but I did find the pinion and bearing pin deal)
SO....
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

I will take a couple pics of the pinion and ring gear. Ring gear shows a few spots, I don't think it is a huge deal.
Pinion obviously wears more. It is worse. Maybe just a fix slop in it (for my limited use)
Wags

 

[OldandWorn]

Yeah....that cap pin couldn't be good. CAT cautions about getting it aligned with the bearing housing when installing the bevel shaft. One part I still don't understand. If you don't replace the brake pads does that mean you will still have 2X the thread showing on the right side adjuster?

 

[wagspe208]

Yeah....that cap pin couldn't be good. CAT cautions about getting it aligned with the bearing housing when installing the bevel shaft. One part I still don't understand. If you don't replace the brake pads does that mean you will still have 2X the thread showing on the right side adjuster?

I don't believe so. It probably would be pretty close. Before I yanked it apart, the pedals were different. They may be close.
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

I have to think about stuff for a while.
I think I need to fix the pinion... especially given the wear.
I will price bands and see if it is worth it. I will yank the adjuster screws out and measure total travel vs where I am now and make that decision. For my use... probably now worth it.
Then on to painting a little, and throw that back together, then on to pumps...
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

Here are pics of the pinion. When I pulled the pinion out, a race, or bushing stuck on the front end of it. (trans end) It is extremely similar to a cam bearing. I assume it is supposed to be press fit into the trans output shaft.
I also see why there is no adjustment of pinion end play. I assume the 2 bearings and 2 races and spacer come as a set.
Wags

 

[wosama931b]

Hi wagspe208 , It looks like the some wear on the upper side may be from a bearing wear or just hard work over time, is the pinon and housing one item??
sam.

 

[HATCHEQUIP]

if your just using it around the farm it will last along time but its not going to get any better for sure and dont touch any of that with a die grinder when they were saying that they were talking about chips on the edges or end of teeth.

 

[OldandWorn]

Here are pics of the pinion. When I pulled the pinion out, a race, or bushing stuck on the front end of it. (trans end) It is extremely similar to a cam bearing. I assume it is supposed to be press fit into the trans output shaft.
I also see why there is no adjustment of pinion end play. I assume the 2 bearings and 2 races and spacer come as a set.
Wags

Wags, it's a spacer that is pressed onto the pinion shaft but I don't understand its purpose as it's just there and doesn't look like it touches anything in the trans shaft. It doesn't look like it needs to be removed to change out the bearings. Yes, bearings and race spacer bought as a set.

 

[OldandWorn]

On second thought, the spacer might help with side thrust?

 

[Maurice Muenks]

Wags, According to Cat's parts book 85J1-85J4671 dated 12/78 the bearing assembly is 3K3036, and the o-ring seal on the shaft is 5K5959 for a pinion number 5K5818. These number will most likely change but this will give you a start. my NPR is down right now so I can't look up to see if they change and to what.

Good luck

 

[wagspe208]

wow, great help...
So, the "bearing or bushing" that is in the end of the trans shaft/ trans end of the pinion is ok, just toss it back in? I can see where it would help to substantially stableize the pinion. The pinion tapered roller bearings are pretty close together to control the twisting motion that must be in the pinion.
The guy that worked on it last time obviously wasn't very slick. Nothing seemed to be torqued. Looser than what I would have expected.
So, you guys say the pinion will be ok for my use... I'll run it. Replace bearings, set up gears properly... and go.
Sound good?
Thanks tons.
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

Hi wagspe208 , It looks like the some wear on the upper side may be from a bearing wear or just hard work over time, is the pinon and housing one item??
sam.

The flange you see is separate. The ord)er is pinion, flange, race, roller bearing, spacer, roller bearing, race.
Wags

 

[Maurice Muenks]

Wags, the bearing in there is two tapered roller bearings back to back and when you install the new ones they will be loose until you torque them and that will set the preload, that is why they come in a set. I looked in the service manual and it does not give a spec for the pinion bolts, but if they are 1/2" size bolt using a 3/4" wrench or socket I usually torque them to 85 ft/lbs. And by the way they are suppose to have locks on them P/N 3H6237 LOCK ---quanity 2

(not a good speller, can't you tell) Maurice
PS you have the order right

 

[OldandWorn]

So, the "bearing or bushing" that is in the end of the trans shaft/ trans end of the pinion is ok, just toss it back in?

The spacer, as they call it, should be a press fit onto the pinion shaft. Heat to max. of 275F when installing it and the tapered roller bearings. If the spacer is loose it looks like it could fall off the shaft and just jiggle around inside of the transmission splines. If there are any straight line wear marks in the spacer I would replace it.

I don't know what to say about your pinion gear as I have no heavy equipment experience. It looks bad but OMG the price would probably cause heart failure. :laugh