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9180 final drive

Discussion in 'Agricultural Equipment' started by southernman13, Feb 6, 2022.

  1. southernman13

    southernman13 Senior Member

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    Sam Tractor another question we had one hub leaking on this tractor ended up it was just a bolt on loose but we went ahead and took the cap off of the final drive and resealed it put new 85/140 back in it. We’re actually driving it down the road right now pulling a pan going to a job site my son just pulled over to check it we’ve been 14 miles on that same side where we just resealed is hot well I can put my hand on it for like eight seconds I’d say it’s about 120 degrees
    but it’s only the very end of it at the very end cap the rest of the hub isn’t even warm. The other hubs are all cool. We checked the oil yesterday on level ground after we had driven it like 6 miles and everything was at the correct level no oil leaks
     
  2. southernman13

    southernman13 Senior Member

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    It’s my understanding that the final drives share the oil with the whole system basically one oil reservoir is that not correct
     
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  3. southernman13

    southernman13 Senior Member

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    We checked oil level on both sides of that rear end they are both full probably a little over full. But only one side is running warm do I need to check the level in the differential as well if it all shares the same oil just doesn’t make sense to have to check differential but I will
     
  4. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    In my experience most axles with final drives are open from side to side. It's one of the things I look at if the machine isn't sitting level when I check fluids. Some times there is a button on the final drive cover that the sun gear rides on to keep from wearing into the cover. Some are in there permanently, some will fall out if you tilt the plate and you don't notice it when you install the plate. It might be something to check.

    An infrared thermometer is a lot more accurate and comfortable to use for temps than your hand.
     
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  5. southernman13

    southernman13 Senior Member

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    Don’t believe ours has a button. I definitely didn’t notice one and we were very careful removing the cover. That doesn’t mean I missed it. I do know it’s been off.l before. Right in the middle on the outside of the hub it has been welded. I’ve heard they leak in the middle and someone decided to weld it up I reckon. This may have even made it where the button can’t be used idk. We made it to the job. It never got super hot. I’d say 130ish. I’m definitely gonna get a infrared temp gun. Before we move it again. We had probably 2 miles through the woods to travel and it was slower speeds. It had cooled down by the time we stopped
     
  6. icestationzebra

    icestationzebra Senior Member

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    Could it be a bearing going bad?
     
  7. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    Gear boxes all run different sometimes. Some get warm, some don't. 85/140 seems to be pretty heavy for gears turning that fast. I used to only put that stuff in friction crane swing and travel boxes. Still 120 degrees F is not hot by a long ways,
     
  8. southernman13

    southernman13 Senior Member

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    85/140is what big red tractor recommend. They are the Steiger people. It had purple looking gear lube in it. But yes I don’t think it was hot enough to be overly concerned but bears watching. Definitely want a temp gun to confirm the temp.
     
  9. 56wrench

    56wrench Senior Member

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    Originally those RABA axles in those model tractors were supposed to have either hytran or 85w-90 gearlube. One possibility is that during a long road trip on pavement, you will get some axle-wrap build-up on one side if the tire pressure is significantly different than the other 3 corners, which may cause that one to run hotter. The planetary covers have removable centre buttons with shims on the inside of the cover between the botton and the cover to control end-play of the axle shaft( about .060" to .075"). The buttons are supposed to be pressed and loctited in but if somebody has run it with it leaking, then the hole has wallowed out. Maybe the welding has softened the button allowing the axle too much endplay and it is wandering in and out too much which may cause accelerated spline wear
     
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  10. southernman13

    southernman13 Senior Member

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    Tenfo makes sense. How could u even check the end play? I mean if u install the cover there’s no way to move the axle in and out. Maybe put a straight edge across the hub with the cover off and measure to the axle shaft and do the same on the cover idk. We checked air pressure before roaring it and had them all close to 20. But that was a thought I had as well. For now we’re good but I’ll dig deeper possibly when we move again. Thanks
     
  11. 56wrench

    56wrench Senior Member

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    Well, you can't use the factory procedure because the button is welded in, so i would find some soft lead wire or soft lead solder and stick it across the button, install the cover, then remove it and measure the thickness do the squashed solder. You may have to get creative to hold the solder to the button. ie. dab of grease, wrap it, etc.
     
  12. 56wrench

    56wrench Senior Member

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    Typo alert:confused:. I meant to say 'measure the thickness OF the squashed solder'
     
  13. southernman13

    southernman13 Senior Member

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    Tenfo sounds good